ARP head stud install,no cam removal
Mar 1, 2004, 04:16 PM
#1
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ARP head stud install,no cam removal
Easy Arp cylinder head stud install,no cam removal required.
1st,remove coil cover and remove coils(like you are changing spark plugs).
2nd,remove radiator cap as to let out any pressure build up in cooling system.
3rd,remove all 10mm headed bolts that hold valve cover onto
cylinder head.
4th,now you see all 10 head bolts.start in middle of cylinder head and remove just 1 bolt(tool needed is a 12mm 12 point socket with a short extension)these bolts are tightened to a certain torque,then rotated 90 degrees twice,as to stretch bolt(torque to yeild)so they may seem a little bit tight.
5th,remove just first bolt,do not,i repeat,do not loosen any other bolts at this time.
6th,install first stud.tool needed is an allen wrench(has allen hole in top that will face up.Tighten this all the way in to block,untill it
wont tighten any more.
7th,take allen wrench off stud and slip washer over allen wrench,
put allen wrench back into top of stud while holding washer,once allen is on top of stud like you are going to tighten stud,let washer fall down onto stud.the reason i did this is so that the washer can only fall onto stud and not down anywhere else,like into oil drain back holes or worse yet,into oil pan.
8th,put some lube that comes with stud set onto threads of nut.do the same thing with nut as you did with the washer,for the same reasons.
9th,now you need a 13mm,12 piont socket,semi deep or deep and a torque wrench.Tighten nut to specified torque,I think it is somewhere around 80ft/lbs.check directions just to be sure.
10th,continue this procedure,one at a time,untill all ten are done,
then go back and check all nut torques one more time.
(note;2 or 3 bolts are a ***** to remove because the washer on the bolt is slightly under the valve spring,just pull on the bolt slightly with a pair of pliers,comes right out.I think it is the 2 middle bolts,the first two that you do)
11th,make sure that you are removing and reinstalling these bolts in the same sequence that you would torque the cylinder head with,sort of a circular,criss-cross pattern.
12,reinstall valve cover and coils.Thats it you are done.
can be done warm or cold,but would not recommend hot.
good luck.any questions on torque sequence,see service manual,
or someone could download image from service manual.(I would if i could figure where it went when i made a copy of it,LOL)
1st,remove coil cover and remove coils(like you are changing spark plugs).
2nd,remove radiator cap as to let out any pressure build up in cooling system.
3rd,remove all 10mm headed bolts that hold valve cover onto
cylinder head.
4th,now you see all 10 head bolts.start in middle of cylinder head and remove just 1 bolt(tool needed is a 12mm 12 point socket with a short extension)these bolts are tightened to a certain torque,then rotated 90 degrees twice,as to stretch bolt(torque to yeild)so they may seem a little bit tight.
5th,remove just first bolt,do not,i repeat,do not loosen any other bolts at this time.
6th,install first stud.tool needed is an allen wrench(has allen hole in top that will face up.Tighten this all the way in to block,untill it
wont tighten any more.
7th,take allen wrench off stud and slip washer over allen wrench,
put allen wrench back into top of stud while holding washer,once allen is on top of stud like you are going to tighten stud,let washer fall down onto stud.the reason i did this is so that the washer can only fall onto stud and not down anywhere else,like into oil drain back holes or worse yet,into oil pan.
8th,put some lube that comes with stud set onto threads of nut.do the same thing with nut as you did with the washer,for the same reasons.
9th,now you need a 13mm,12 piont socket,semi deep or deep and a torque wrench.Tighten nut to specified torque,I think it is somewhere around 80ft/lbs.check directions just to be sure.
10th,continue this procedure,one at a time,untill all ten are done,
then go back and check all nut torques one more time.
(note;2 or 3 bolts are a ***** to remove because the washer on the bolt is slightly under the valve spring,just pull on the bolt slightly with a pair of pliers,comes right out.I think it is the 2 middle bolts,the first two that you do)
11th,make sure that you are removing and reinstalling these bolts in the same sequence that you would torque the cylinder head with,sort of a circular,criss-cross pattern.
12,reinstall valve cover and coils.Thats it you are done.
can be done warm or cold,but would not recommend hot.
good luck.any questions on torque sequence,see service manual,
or someone could download image from service manual.(I would if i could figure where it went when i made a copy of it,LOL)
Mar 2, 2004, 07:40 AM
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This is according to the service manual:
Removal:
3 5 10 8 2
o o o o o
1 7 9 6 4
o o o o o
Installation:
8 6 1 3 9
o o o o o
10 4 2 5 7
o o o o o
just curious... would it matter much which way it was done (removal vs installation method) just as long as they are removed and installed one head stud at a time?
Zeus...yeah I have to agree...RRE has the some of the best prices I've seen for many things...plus, the main reason why I buy most if not all my stuff there is because of their support...Mike has answered all my emails (same day) regardless of how newbish my questions were...he has the no bull**** attitude that I dig...I just wish that he would post here more...
Removal:
3 5 10 8 2
o o o o o
1 7 9 6 4
o o o o o
Installation:
8 6 1 3 9
o o o o o
10 4 2 5 7
o o o o o
just curious... would it matter much which way it was done (removal vs installation method) just as long as they are removed and installed one head stud at a time?
Zeus...yeah I have to agree...RRE has the some of the best prices I've seen for many things...plus, the main reason why I buy most if not all my stuff there is because of their support...Mike has answered all my emails (same day) regardless of how newbish my questions were...he has the no bull**** attitude that I dig...I just wish that he would post here more...
Mar 2, 2004, 07:59 AM
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Do it in the install procedure,as you are not taking cylinder head off,just replacing bolts with studs.The reason that you would
start from outside and work your way in is to not have head warp during removal.Just stick with the install procedure.Another thing,I work on engines all day and was quite suprised to find that the head bolts can be easily removed without cam removal.
Cant think of many import engines that can be done like this.
Thats why i am posting,there is no excuse why you have not replaced those streched,torque to yeild bolts YET!!!!Peace and good luck
start from outside and work your way in is to not have head warp during removal.Just stick with the install procedure.Another thing,I work on engines all day and was quite suprised to find that the head bolts can be easily removed without cam removal.
Cant think of many import engines that can be done like this.
Thats why i am posting,there is no excuse why you have not replaced those streched,torque to yeild bolts YET!!!!Peace and good luck
Mar 2, 2004, 04:05 PM
#5
Originally posted by turboDan
Do it in the install procedure,as you are not taking cylinder head off,just replacing bolts with studs.The reason that you would
start from outside and work your way in is to not have head warp during removal.Just stick with the install procedure.Another thing,I work on engines all day and was quite suprised to find that the head bolts can be easily removed without cam removal.
Cant think of many import engines that can be done like this.
Thats why i am posting,there is no excuse why you have not replaced those streched,torque to yeild bolts YET!!!!Peace and good luck
Do it in the install procedure,as you are not taking cylinder head off,just replacing bolts with studs.The reason that you would
start from outside and work your way in is to not have head warp during removal.Just stick with the install procedure.Another thing,I work on engines all day and was quite suprised to find that the head bolts can be easily removed without cam removal.
Cant think of many import engines that can be done like this.
Thats why i am posting,there is no excuse why you have not replaced those streched,torque to yeild bolts YET!!!!Peace and good luck
...
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Mar 2, 2004, 05:21 PM
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If you are running anything other than stock boost,like 19+ boost and dont like getting in the habit of changing head gaskets due to failure from those excessive boost pressures than a set of head studs are highly recommended.Some people like to change head gaskets,as to get in practice to be able to beat their previous best times,but they are called "flat rate tech's".Others like to crank up the boost ,like myself,and dont like working on my car if I dont have to.The latter are the ones that choose to swap out their streched out head bolts to the ARP head stud kit.
Mar 3, 2004, 04:06 AM
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depends on mileage,and how long you have owned car.I have 2500 miles and have owned it for 6 months and did not change gasket,still ok,very pliable,rubbery.If your gasket is hard as a rock and does not feel like rubber anymore than i would recommend replacing it.Another note;where the cam caps hold the cams to
head,on the edges that meet the head(look at valve cover,the 3 places that look like a half moon cut out)you will see that in the corners there is a slight amount of RTV,clean out old RTV and use a small amount of new rtv in same places as to prevent any slight leaks from occuring there(the ols stuff is grey in color and if purchased from mitsu it cost $30 a tube,recommend getting some permatex brand for about $5 a tube.some import parts stores even have the stuff that is gray in color as to look stock)
head,on the edges that meet the head(look at valve cover,the 3 places that look like a half moon cut out)you will see that in the corners there is a slight amount of RTV,clean out old RTV and use a small amount of new rtv in same places as to prevent any slight leaks from occuring there(the ols stuff is grey in color and if purchased from mitsu it cost $30 a tube,recommend getting some permatex brand for about $5 a tube.some import parts stores even have the stuff that is gray in color as to look stock)
Mar 3, 2004, 06:31 AM
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Originally posted by turboDan
depends on mileage,and how long you have owned car.I have 2500 miles and have owned it for 6 months and did not change gasket,still ok,very pliable,rubbery.If your gasket is hard as a rock and does not feel like rubber anymore than i would recommend replacing it.Another note;where the cam caps hold the cams to
head,on the edges that meet the head(look at valve cover,the 3 places that look like a half moon cut out)you will see that in the corners there is a slight amount of RTV,clean out old RTV and use a small amount of new rtv in same places as to prevent any slight leaks from occuring there(the ols stuff is grey in color and if purchased from mitsu it cost $30 a tube,recommend getting some permatex brand for about $5 a tube.some import parts stores even have the stuff that is gray in color as to look stock)
depends on mileage,and how long you have owned car.I have 2500 miles and have owned it for 6 months and did not change gasket,still ok,very pliable,rubbery.If your gasket is hard as a rock and does not feel like rubber anymore than i would recommend replacing it.Another note;where the cam caps hold the cams to
head,on the edges that meet the head(look at valve cover,the 3 places that look like a half moon cut out)you will see that in the corners there is a slight amount of RTV,clean out old RTV and use a small amount of new rtv in same places as to prevent any slight leaks from occuring there(the ols stuff is grey in color and if purchased from mitsu it cost $30 a tube,recommend getting some permatex brand for about $5 a tube.some import parts stores even have the stuff that is gray in color as to look stock)
