ToddRhodes

iTrader: (6)

Just finished this job on my IX. For anyone considering doing this on their own but are scared to do so - you should be. I don't say that to be an ***, but this is not a job to be taken lightly and demands a lot of attention to detail.

With that said - it really wasn't that bad, lol. First up, I mentioned them before but for anyone attempting to do this by themselves, do yourself a favor and buy this tool kit:

http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=214

The cam stay and the tbelt tensioning tool are wonderful little tools. With the cam stay, you do not have to fight with the cams naturally falling "in" when you release the belt. Everything stays perfectly TDC. This part is made to a very exact standard - even the tiniest bit off in either direction and it will not slide into place. Once that's in, the hard part is done.

You can forget about needing to drop the DP and all that noise, I also did not need to remove the alternator brace. When you have the tbelt off, just move the oil pump and watch how it falls. If it falls towards the timing mark, the shaft is in phase. If it falls away from the timing mark, it's out of phase and needs to be turned one rotation. That's all there is to it.

With the timing belt tools, I was able to get the belt on and tensioned in about 15 minutes. It would have been shorter had I realized you have to set both the crank sprocket and oil pump gear 1 tooth off counterclockwise since they'll move once you apply tension, per the manual on evoscan.com. Once I got that I was golden.

For the serp belt, I too started with the PS pulley, then to the AC pulley, over to the idler pulley and under the WP pulley over to the alt pulley. I had everything close but not perfect - it was about 50% "on" the crank pulley. Just turn the crank clockwise a few rotations and the belt will slide right on. That didn't take long at all, maybe a few minutes once I got the routing right. The trick with the allen wrench through the tensioner makes this a very simple job with just one person. The biggest that will fit in the gap is a 6mm allen wrench, FWIW.

Anyway, hope this helps and many thanks for the writeup, it helped a ton!

lostsoulsevo

iTrader: (10)

^^^^thanks for your tools by the way!!! it was pretty easy

lomsa

Great write up! Thanks

EvoSeanzie

iTrader: (14)

does the balancer belt HAVE to come off? Im trying to use this in getting to my head gasket. Can I separate the head from the block without getting to the balancer belt?

Macaroni

iTrader: (9)

Yes the balance shaft belt rides behind the timing belt so you don't need to remove the bs belt to pull the head off. Your better than that Sean!

six40

Yeah, you don't need to touch or worry about the balance shaft belt if you're removing the head. But if you put a new timing belt back on, replace the balance shaft belt while you're down there.

EVOJR$

iTrader: (47)

great write up!! just got done and this was a life saver!! great work bro.

dozena

I need to do this on my Evo as the 60K is round the bend...

... the Jay Racing tools are 'sold out'. Where can I buy or borrow them? I can pay a rental fee or buy them outright!

Also, is there a video of this procedure?

Dirty Dave

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for excellent write up man. Much appreciated

gt50

iTrader: (1)

Great write up! I used it to do the timing belt on my 8. I replaced all the pulleys and the water pump while I was in there. My car took about three weeks to fix because I only had a few hours on Saturday each week to work on it. This was my second time doing a timing belt. The last time I did it on an 1G GSX that I owned. I had pulled the engine, so I don't think that counts.

The hardest part for me was getting the water pump bolts loose. I would recommend spinning the engine and breaking them loose before removing the accessory belt. I bought a strap wrench to hold the pulley while removing the bolts. The power steering was probably my biggest issue. I had to remove it to remove the bracket to get to the last pulley. I could not get it off with my ratchet. I tried even using the wobbly extension with my impact wrench. It flew off and broke the blue wire that runs into the PS pump. I repaired this, but after filling my radiator to make sure the water pump was good, I found my radiator was leaking. The bit punched a small hole in the radiator, so I have to replace my 6 month old radiator now. Luckily I did not spring for the CBRD.

Regarding the bolt from hell. I disassembled my jack handle and used it to get leverage on my ratchet to break that nut loose.

I forgot to add. I used the Jay's racing kit. I did not use the screw piece because I just remove the tensioner bolts and retract it using a c clamp if I am going to reuse it. The two prong tool was very handy. The plastic piece was very difficult to get set in, but it was easier than using the three wrench method and trying to place the belt at the same time. My wife lent a hand for this.

gt50

iTrader: (1)

I guess my day is not so bad. The radiator is one year old. I paid $140 last year on Amazon. Now it is 96 on Amazon.

therunningskier

iTrader: (2)

So removing the front idler pulley seems damn near impossible(Step 7 3rd part). I just attempted this on my IX SE, and the bolt that holds it to the motor was longer than there was room between it and the chassis. I backed it all the way out and it was still attached... So the only thing I can think of is to take more bits of the car apart to get to the rear motor mount so that I can remove that and lower the motor farther so that it can be extracted below the chassis.

Is that what everyone else has done? Or am I missing something?

WHTEVO

iTrader: (18)

You don't HAVE to remove that idler pulley in order to do what you need to. It is a tight fit but i usually just back it out all the way against the chassis and then slowly squeeze the timing cover etc off. But if you feel the need to remove it, support the engine, and remove the passenger side motor mount, then you can lower the side of the engine enough to get the idler pulley bolt out. Good luck.

Ghostdriver22

Bringing this thread back from the dead. I have gone to two shops to get quotes and I am looking at 950$ for the job to be done by someone else. Shops charge 85$ an hour here and I guess the job calls for 4.2 hrs. I installed the clutch on this car and have a level of confidence that I can kick this job in the *** so long as my timing marks are dead on. I would purchase the tool that blocks the gears from moving instead of the three wrench method. Anyone willing to chat this thread up a bit with me? Parts look to be 450$ no matter how I purchase them.

-Ghost

Z_Lancer_Man

iTrader: (115)

If you've done a clutch, you can do this. I'll be doing this again for the second time this coming fall (currently at 116000 miles). Hardest part of the whole thing is raising and lowering the engine to get all the pulleys off. Keep your timing marks right and you'll be golden.

--Zack