HOW TO: Timing Belt, Balancer Shaft Belt, and Accessory Belt Replacement
Feb 6, 2012, 05:36 AM
#61
can someone please post a better looking picture for the block plug? i know its behind the DP just want to make sure what i am looking for. or will it be really obvious? also when you remove the crankshaft bolt will i need to hold the pulley inplace somehow so that it doesnt turn?
Feb 13, 2012, 08:05 AM
#62
Did this this weekend theres a few things that are diffrent for the mr's which made a huge diffeence in the install. In my case it took 6 complete turns for everything to line up again. And the intake pully had a diffrent pully had no bolt in the center. And that made it really hard to keep it in place. I seem to be running good;-)
Mar 6, 2012, 07:45 PM
#66
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I almost completed the tear down process of this fantastic maintenance job today, but I'm stuck on removing the bolt from the crank sprocket.
I have an 06 IX MR if that changes anything.
At first I tried just my impact, but the sprocket started to rotate counter clockwise, which I know is a no-no.
Then I got my little universal spanner wrench out, had my buddy hold it, and hit the crank sprocket bolt with my impact again. Still nothing.
So I got my breaker bar out, put a 3 foot piece of pipe on the end of it, and had my buddy hold the spanner wrench which had a makeshift handle extension on it. I broke the handle of my spanner wrench in half...
So I'm at a loss. Am I a total moron and this thing is reverse/left hand thread? Does my impact not have enough torque? It's a IR 2135ti, which is supposed to burst at 1000 ft lbs, and hold 700. Any help would be much appreciated!
I have an 06 IX MR if that changes anything.
At first I tried just my impact, but the sprocket started to rotate counter clockwise, which I know is a no-no.
Then I got my little universal spanner wrench out, had my buddy hold it, and hit the crank sprocket bolt with my impact again. Still nothing.
So I got my breaker bar out, put a 3 foot piece of pipe on the end of it, and had my buddy hold the spanner wrench which had a makeshift handle extension on it. I broke the handle of my spanner wrench in half...
So I'm at a loss. Am I a total moron and this thing is reverse/left hand thread? Does my impact not have enough torque? It's a IR 2135ti, which is supposed to burst at 1000 ft lbs, and hold 700. Any help would be much appreciated!
Mar 7, 2012, 07:26 PM
#67
You can try some PB blaster...that stuff works like a miracle. Also, you can do the breaker bar/jack stand trick. Basically you put a socket on the crank bolt with an extension, place the end of the extension on a jack stand and crank the motor a couple clicks. Make sure it won't kick over, so remove spark and/or fuel, but I've heard that works.
Jul 6, 2012, 07:50 PM
#69
I just did this a few weeks ago and ran into a couple of issues. If you're replacing the idler pulley it takes work. I didn't understand why the down pipe needed to come off since I was able to get everything off without taking it off until I read the part about taking the bolt off the block, plus this ables you to lower the engine more to get to the bolts that hold the power steering pump bracket to get to the idler pulley that I ended up stripping 
problem with the whole idler pulley thing is that you need to take off the power steering pump from the bracket it's two bolts on the side (next to the header) and two bolts on the front (by the radiator) and an easy one by the belt. These bolts are really hard to get to with a wrench to get some good torque on them, then once you get the pump off there's four bolts that hold the bracket to the block two in the front and two on the side and I'm assuming mine have never been off because they were nearly impossible to get off and like I said I ended up stripping one so I gave up since the pulley was in good shape still. Getting the timing belt on right was the second hardest thing but I think I spent the most time with this since it's alot of bolts in a tight space. Speaking off it's good to have someone like myself with skinny fingers to get the water pump bolts since it's right up against the frame, I have skinny fingers and even I had a difficult time getting those bolts!!!
problem with the whole idler pulley thing is that you need to take off the power steering pump from the bracket it's two bolts on the side (next to the header) and two bolts on the front (by the radiator) and an easy one by the belt. These bolts are really hard to get to with a wrench to get some good torque on them, then once you get the pump off there's four bolts that hold the bracket to the block two in the front and two on the side and I'm assuming mine have never been off because they were nearly impossible to get off and like I said I ended up stripping one so I gave up since the pulley was in good shape still. Getting the timing belt on right was the second hardest thing but I think I spent the most time with this since it's alot of bolts in a tight space. Speaking off it's good to have someone like myself with skinny fingers to get the water pump bolts since it's right up against the frame, I have skinny fingers and even I had a difficult time getting those bolts!!!
Jul 8, 2012, 02:05 AM
#70
Thanks for the great write-up
Just got my Evo8 and needed to re-do the timing belt job the previous owners inept "mechanic" did. Between the service manual available at EvoScan and this article everything went swell. Thanks for taking the time to do the write-up!
Jul 22, 2012, 01:35 PM
#71
Going to tackle this next weekend on my IX. I ordered up Jay's timing belt parts kit specifically for the cam-gear stay and the eccentric pulley adjuster. I'm hoping I can do this by myself...
The 14mm hex bolt is necessary to remove so you can access the exhaust cam gear bolt to hold it in place, correct? Does anyone know if that's still necessary with the cam gear "stay"? I have a 14mm hex on the way just in case, but figured I'd ask. I'm just going to do timing, accessory, and balancer belts and inspect the pullies. I have a water pump but will wait on that til the 120k service, along with the pullies.
The 14mm hex bolt is necessary to remove so you can access the exhaust cam gear bolt to hold it in place, correct? Does anyone know if that's still necessary with the cam gear "stay"? I have a 14mm hex on the way just in case, but figured I'd ask. I'm just going to do timing, accessory, and balancer belts and inspect the pullies. I have a water pump but will wait on that til the 120k service, along with the pullies.
Jul 22, 2012, 06:03 PM
#72
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i take it the screwdriver method is not needed for the oil pump install when a balance shaft elim kit exists in the block, am i correct on this assumption?
And also, when i pulled my head after removing the timing belt from the cam gears, i noticed my exhaust cam gear notch was pointing about 9:00, whereas the intake cam gear was tdc. I am orig owner and never had the timing messed with...is there a reason for this?
And also, when i pulled my head after removing the timing belt from the cam gears, i noticed my exhaust cam gear notch was pointing about 9:00, whereas the intake cam gear was tdc. I am orig owner and never had the timing messed with...is there a reason for this?
Jul 23, 2012, 01:02 PM
#75
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it was running quite horribly, but i think it ws mainly due to the fact that i had spun a rod bearing and has a loss of oil pressure. Is it possible for this to happen over time? i was thinking it could also be due to the fact that i thought i had enough tension on the pulley to take the belt off but slid it off the cam gears and since it wasnt compressed fully i think a tensioner pulley or something snapped back to place. i was thinking it just jumped back a 1/4 turn from the lobes on the cam...anyone possibly know? I cant imagine that mitsu assembled it incorrectly