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Exhaust mani right? And you actually broke the stud going into an aluminum head? That's crazy. You're going to have to drill out what's left of the stud from the head. I've heard of some other ways to do it but they elude me at the moment. Google. I would imagine with all the torque put on that stud that the threads in the head are probably also screwed. Helicoil? Re-tap? I feel sorry for you. GL
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It runs like a Silverback Gorilla held hostage in a cage for 10 years, that just escaped and is looking to rape something.
You have to go to Sears or whatever store you get your tools at and get an "easy out" or "extractor". You would drill a hole in the broken stud, then back it out with the easy out. It comes in a kit with different sized bits and extractors.
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Tuned by Frenchy, 2.0 Long Rod motor, manley rods, Manley stroker pistons, ARP all around. Stage 3 head, manley SS valves, Kelford 280's, Cosworth beehive springs, PTE 1000cc injectors, Walbro in tank pump/inline pump, Agency power fuel rail, Fuel lab FPR, Sparktech non-cdi, Fidanza cams gears, Magnus cast mani, Works t-body, Shearer mani, HTA3582, Buschur Down pipe, AMS exhaust, no cat, AMS Race FMIC, Tial bov and wastegate, Exedy Triple, AMS small battery kit, Apexi grounding kit. AEM EMS.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chele
You have to go to Sears or whatever store you get your tools at and get an "easy out" or "extractor". You would drill a hole in the broken stud, then back it out with the easy out. It comes in a kit with different sized bits and extractors.
thanks. but my question still is to put a new stud in the block do i just screw it in? or how is it. because i heard from someone that it is casted in and the only way to replace it is to take the whole head off?
thanks. but my question still is to put a new stud in the block do i just screw it in? or how is it. because i heard from someone that it is casted in and the only way to replace it is to take the whole head off?
I have removed all my studs before so they can come out. Pull off your manifold and i'll come there and take it out for a nug of the goods. J/K
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They come right out. Make sure you use some loctite on the threads before you install them. Worst thing that can happen is they back out from vibration. And if there's an oil passage behind the hole, your going to have a leak. One of mine popped out and oil got everywhere. Made a nasty mess.
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Tuned by Frenchy, 2.0 Long Rod motor, manley rods, Manley stroker pistons, ARP all around. Stage 3 head, manley SS valves, Kelford 280's, Cosworth beehive springs, PTE 1000cc injectors, Walbro in tank pump/inline pump, Agency power fuel rail, Fuel lab FPR, Sparktech non-cdi, Fidanza cams gears, Magnus cast mani, Works t-body, Shearer mani, HTA3582, Buschur Down pipe, AMS exhaust, no cat, AMS Race FMIC, Tial bov and wastegate, Exedy Triple, AMS small battery kit, Apexi grounding kit. AEM EMS.
Wait a sec, one or some of the exhaust mani studs double(s) as a plug for the oil circuit? I just did mine as well and I have a hard time believing that. Am I misunderstanding something?
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It runs like a Silverback Gorilla held hostage in a cage for 10 years, that just escaped and is looking to rape something.
They come right out. Make sure you use some loctite on the threads before you install them. Worst thing that can happen is they back out from vibration. And if there's an oil passage behind the hole, your going to have a leak. One of mine popped out and oil got everywhere. Made a nasty mess.
yea thats what i figured thanks alot. im not sure though whether to get just an oem stud are remove them all for the hell of it and get stainless steel ones
