How to bypass the injector resistor box
Nov 10, 2009, 09:37 AM
#1
How to bypass the injector resistor box
Yes it may seem trivial to most people as it is a fairly simple task, however some people don't know why it needs to be done, or what the resistor box is.
***DO NOT REMOVE THE RESISTOR INJECTOR BOX IF YOU HAVE LOW IMPEDANCE INJECTORS, OR PLAN TO INSTALL UPGRADED LOW IMPEDANCE INJECTORS***
This how to is for people that want to replace the evos low impedance injectors for high impedance (saturated) injectors such as the new Injector Dynamics/FIC Bosch EV-14 injectors.
1. Locate and remove the injector resistor box. It is located on the passenger side firewall directly behind the oil dipstick.
2. Cut the harness in half, but leave enough room if you ever need to splice the injector box back on to the connector.
3. Strip the insulation back about 3/4" on each wire and then tin each wire with a soldering iron. Crimp all the wires together using a butt splice, solder the connection, and heat shrink it to keep it from the weather, and also so you don't ground out the 11-12 volts that is now flowing through it
4. Reinstall the connector "pigtail" and go ahead and install those injectors now
***DO NOT REMOVE THE RESISTOR INJECTOR BOX IF YOU HAVE LOW IMPEDANCE INJECTORS, OR PLAN TO INSTALL UPGRADED LOW IMPEDANCE INJECTORS***
This how to is for people that want to replace the evos low impedance injectors for high impedance (saturated) injectors such as the new Injector Dynamics/FIC Bosch EV-14 injectors.
1. Locate and remove the injector resistor box. It is located on the passenger side firewall directly behind the oil dipstick.
2. Cut the harness in half, but leave enough room if you ever need to splice the injector box back on to the connector.
3. Strip the insulation back about 3/4" on each wire and then tin each wire with a soldering iron. Crimp all the wires together using a butt splice, solder the connection, and heat shrink it to keep it from the weather, and also so you don't ground out the 11-12 volts that is now flowing through it
4. Reinstall the connector "pigtail" and go ahead and install those injectors now
Last edited by Fast_Freddie; Sep 18, 2010 at 09:02 PM.
Nov 10, 2009, 09:46 AM
#2
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What did you do to the connector pigtail ends? Same procedure then connect both together? I wonder if those guys figured why it was having restart problems with the ID1000"s.
Dec 28, 2009, 08:21 PM
#6
I think i understand this but want to be sure..After cutting the harness in half i am done with the resistor box. Then i solder all the wires on the connector together and tape and heat shrink them?
I am not in front of the car right now so this may seem like a stupid question after i do look but why cant you pull the resistor box and connector out and just leave them out? why do you need to solder the wires together and put the connector back?
I am not in front of the car right now so this may seem like a stupid question after i do look but why cant you pull the resistor box and connector out and just leave them out? why do you need to solder the wires together and put the connector back?
Dec 28, 2009, 09:11 PM
#7
^ because you'll have an open circuit.
you could probably chop off before the plugs and solder those wires, but it wont look as clean in case you ever want to go back to using the resistor box. You would have an unsightly splice on the male end of the connector forever.
On the other hand if you cut it like the way it is in this write up, you'd only have that unsightly splice on the female end which could be replaced so you don't have to worry about splicing the oem harness. Some people have even gone as far to replace the resistor box with a spare and hack the wires on that one apart.
MR561990 ~70 bucks! not worth it IMO.
you could probably chop off before the plugs and solder those wires, but it wont look as clean in case you ever want to go back to using the resistor box. You would have an unsightly splice on the male end of the connector forever.
On the other hand if you cut it like the way it is in this write up, you'd only have that unsightly splice on the female end which could be replaced so you don't have to worry about splicing the oem harness. Some people have even gone as far to replace the resistor box with a spare and hack the wires on that one apart.
MR561990 ~70 bucks! not worth it IMO.
