How To: In-Car Valve Spring and Retainer Install - Page 4

bmojito · Sep 10, 2008, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dubbleugly01

bringing this thread back.....

I just installed springs/retainers using the "rope" method instead of compressed air. Basically, starting with the pistons in #1 and #4, a little less than 1/2 way down, I fed 1/4" dia. nylon rope in through the spark plug hole in cylinder 1 and 4, then rotated the crank to almost TDC, or as much as it would go with the rope in there. Pulled the cams, but left the cam gears and timing belt zip tied together like the evomoto cam install write-up says, and then made sure I kept tension on the timing belt so it couldn't slip on the balance shaft or crank. The tension came from a bungee cord hooked to the underside of the open hood.

Once cylinder 1&4 were done, put the cams back in without rockers, put the cam gears back on, loosened the tension on the timing belt tool and rotated the crank about 180 degrees, and started the process all over again for cylinders 2&3.

I think this method is a decent substitute for pulling the timing belt, or for those who don't have an air compressor.

did you release the timing belt tension? or just left the tensioner alone?

jimib · Sep 27, 2008, 02:12 PM

Has anyone just tried having the car on the ground and in gear with the ebrake on, so you do not have to take the tbelt off? I cant really see the car moving from 1 cylinder with 100 psi in it. Guess I will find out...

And about putting springs on with out taking the head off.. Its not just about money or time, it is about money, time, and not wanting to pull apart a motor with a nice sealed up head gasket. To some people here getting that far in to a motor is a seeming daunting task. I work in the engine business and id much rather do it this way.. Of course im used to changing valve springs on cars at the track all the time... Just usually never have to worry about damn mitsu auto tensioners!!!!!

jimib · Sep 27, 2008, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimib

Has anyone just tried having the car on the ground and in gear with the ebrake on, so you do not have to take the tbelt off? I cant really see the car moving from 1 cylinder with 100 psi in it. Guess I will find out...

I found out.... It moved

. I had a on/off, and a regulator to sneak up on the psi, and it moved just after 60psi. Lesson learned, and time to reset the tbelt.

vtec2mivec · Sep 27, 2008, 06:27 PM

Well, now I know not to try

bboypuertoroc · Nov 4, 2008, 01:38 AM

Subscribed... will be undergoing valve spring/retainer install soon.

magyar86 · Dec 16, 2008, 10:49 PM

wanted to add to this thread a neat little tool i found, does it look like it will work? if it does it looks like it would save a huge amount of time...

http://toyotool.com/?gclid=CO_mgeD5xpcCFQ0xawod01d-TA

Mojo Motorsport · Dec 19, 2008, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimib

I found out.... It moved

. I had a on/off, and a regulator to sneak up on the psi, and it moved just after 60psi. Lesson learned, and time to reset the tbelt.

Put it in 5th gear, parking brake, and chock the wheels, no guarantee but so far so good. Matco also makes a tool for getting the springs in and out, I love it very much,

Part number VT102.

https://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/t...page=4

Edit: Use 3/8 socket extensions to hold the cam gears in place after you remove the cams, this way the pistons can rotate without screwing up timing.

TIBOevo · Dec 19, 2008, 10:36 AM

i would definately replace the valvestem seals since your in there also. especially in my case with 124k miles on the engine.

Epix_ · May 9, 2009, 06:12 AM

**HELPFUL TIP**

When you go to install the keepers, take a small brush and paste a small amount of wheel bearing grease on the grooved part of the valve where the keepers sit. Then after the spring is compressed just push the keepers on the valve and presto, they stick! This way you don't need to hold them with needle nose pliers or any other crazy way you may have concocted in your head.

Since wheel bearing grease is petroleum based it will mix with the oil just fine so don't worry about it causing any problems. I have assembled many cylinder heads using this technique and have never had any problems.

This is not necessary if you are using a tool such as this

musca999 · May 9, 2009, 10:55 PM

Great writeup, nice pics...until step 13 that is. I'd say "tricky" is an understatement. Assuming you've just installed new cams you're probably also installing stiffer springs. Those springs are a b*tch to compress. Ideally this is a 2-man job. Good luck.

Mysta Joe · Jul 14, 2009, 03:13 PM

If pressurizing the cylinder to keep vlaves from dropping and not wanting the crank to move, can you just put a socket and ratchet on the crank pulley bolt and jam it somehow so the pressure does not make it rotate?

Jp7 · Jul 14, 2009, 03:33 PM

I just did this and lost timing when at TDC going from finishing cylinder 2 & 3 then tried to pressurize 4, crank spun, with only 20 PSI in the cylinder with the car in 1st and the e-brake on.

Best way to do this WITHOUT losing timing is to CAREFULLY walk the camgears around to BDC by hand so that 1 and 4 will not push down after you did 2 and 3. This is a pain but much easier then re-doing timing. - don't forget to keep serious tension in the belt.

DavesGSX · Oct 12, 2009, 11:19 AM

This is where you get the best tool for the job. I bought this and it only took me 40 minutes to do all 16 with the head off.
http://www.euroexportinc.com/product...ducts_id=44428

dan628 · Nov 7, 2009, 11:05 AM

^^^ that tool you posted, will it work with the head on? Do I have to worry about the valves falling or will this tool catch them.

Wheatley · Nov 7, 2009, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavesGSX

This is where you get the best tool for the job. I bought this and it only took me 40 minutes to do all 16 with the head off.
http://www.euroexportinc.com/product...ducts_id=44428

I did it in under two hours with the head ON. I saved the hassle and cost of removing the head. Not to mention I cant have a head on and off in an hour and twenty mins. If I already had the head off I would much rather do it then, but sometimes removing the head just isn't the best option.

To the person that had the timing jump, if you would have read in the thread I as well as a few others said to leave it in gear with the e brake on. Lesson learned but it sucks. I only knew because someone I know told me that his jumped when it wasnt in gear.

Edit: I think that tool would work with the head on, just remember to pressurize the cylinder.