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Jul 26, 2004, 01:08 PM
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#1
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Rod Bolt Install.
Anyone have any information, or tips on the install of ARP conrod bolts. I know that there are some consern with the stock bolts getting out of shape when using high boost and even more likley with more rpm. I don't plan on going over 7.5k and always try to not excede but somtimes it is hard to keep under that. But I want to do what is best, I take advantage of cheap insurance and I want to do it before a bigger turbo.
Thanks in advance.
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Jul 26, 2004, 02:24 PM
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#2
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Just thinking out loud, can you just drop the oil pan and remove/replace the con-rod bolts with the everything still attached to the crank?
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Jul 26, 2004, 03:59 PM
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#3
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by 1.8t
Just thinking out loud, can you just drop the oil pan and remove/replace the con-rod bolts with the everything still attached to the crank?
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This is the normal process that I would think but I wansn't for sure so I wanted to ask. Just so I have the correct feeling and not leaving anything out.
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Nov 8, 2004, 09:42 AM
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#4
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by GTVEVO
This is the normal process that I would think but I wansn't for sure so I wanted to ask. Just so I have the correct feeling and not leaving anything out.
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anyone care to give instructions???
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Nov 8, 2004, 09:44 AM
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#5
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Drives: Evo X modified, Evo 8 702awhp, Evo 8 2.4L 30r, 350z modified, galant vr4 with tons of mods, B13 Se-r with evo 8 turbo, lowered ls400 with 205k, super modified dakota v8, built crower motor stealth twin turbo, a couple old 4-runner and some cool bikes
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i heard its a pain...i was going to do it but kinda decided to just to $900 worth of rods and pistons at the same time and make it bullet proof
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Apr 2, 2008, 07:01 PM
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#6
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Old thread but bump, does anyone have clear instructions on how to perform this job?
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Apr 2, 2008, 08:00 PM
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#7
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Wow this is an old thread, after allot of research I decided against this and I am very glad I did. When I pulled apart my stock motor (not blown, replaced with ams long block  ) at 40k the rod bolts were as close to perfect as you could get, all rod bearings looked great. Basically there was no need to upgrade them from my standpoint and I probably had 20k miles running 500whp on the stock long block with 8k rev limit.
Keep a good tune and rev limit and you shouldn't have to worry about it unless this is a track only car that run high rpms constantly.
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Apr 3, 2008, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTVEVO
Wow this is an old thread, after allot of research I decided against this and I am very glad I did. When I pulled apart my stock motor (not blown, replaced with ams long block  ) at 40k the rod bolts were as close to perfect as you could get, all rod bearings looked great. Basically there was no need to upgrade them from my standpoint and I probably had 20k miles running 500whp on the stock long block with 8k rev limit.
Keep a good tune and rev limit and you shouldn't have to worry about it unless this is a track only car that run high rpms constantly.
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I was feeling to same way about it... anyone else have any input?
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Apr 3, 2008, 01:37 PM
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#9
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thats VERY rare to see the original poster reply to his thread he started a little over 3 years ago! crazy
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Apr 3, 2008, 01:49 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evo_8_u
thats VERY rare to see the original poster reply to his thread he started a little over 3 years ago! crazy
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What can I say; the EVO had me at hello
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Apr 3, 2008, 02:08 PM
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#11
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haha didnt even notice this
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Apr 21, 2008, 06:16 PM
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#12
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bump anyone have some sort of detailed instuctions?
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Apr 28, 2008, 02:19 PM
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#13
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bump
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Sep 29, 2008, 06:45 PM
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#14
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“So if we’re to be the gunners, let us make this bet. We’ll be the best damn gunners that’s left this station yet!”
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedPerformance
I know you guys have seen your share of 400whp stock turbo dyno runs on meth, crack, heroin and whatnot with the boost cranked to the moon,
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Last edited by bnice01; Sep 29, 2008 at 06:49 PM.
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Oct 5, 2008, 06:09 PM
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#15
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I just read the little instruction paper that come with my ARP rod bolt its says
"If you do not have a strecth gauge, follow these steps using the ARP Moly Assembly lube. After rods are installed into the motor, torque bolts to 37 ft\lbs. Loosen the nuts. Torque to 37 ft\lb again. Loosen the nuts and torque to 37 ft\lbs a third and final time". I know there site says 5 cycles but I am following the paper that came with my rod bolts. Hope that helps
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Est. Power 450whp+
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“So if we’re to be the gunners, let us make this bet. We’ll be the best damn gunners that’s left this station yet!”
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedPerformance
I know you guys have seen your share of 400whp stock turbo dyno runs on meth, crack, heroin and whatnot with the boost cranked to the moon,
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