for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues
#964
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (31)
^Running this set up for the past 3 months. Looks great and functions perfectly. Dipsticks are very useful for gauging how much blow-by has accumulated.
I've only got it set up with factory hose routing right now but I don't have any crankcase pressure issues at the moment. Radium makes it very easy to change all fittings and lines to accommodate any -AN fitting. Very slick setup! Here's my personal car:
I've only got it set up with factory hose routing right now but I don't have any crankcase pressure issues at the moment. Radium makes it very easy to change all fittings and lines to accommodate any -AN fitting. Very slick setup! Here's my personal car:
Technically, you only should need the pcv side. Thats the only side that will see oil in the can. The driver side is mainly for releasing pressure, on a healthy engine it has no oil coming out.
My silver car has -10 vent to air nothing comes out.
i have nothing on my evo and made 744 with ease and sleeper is trapping 145 almost and has nothing. 100% factory setup. no blow by, no oil burning, no dipstick moving etc. i still put a spring on the stick just in case though for piece of mind.
all that said, the more venting the more efficient the engine will operate. just dont vent in areas that are not meant to be vented (non baffle areas) or you will regret it and push oil into the can and actually lose your oil faster.
I never thought this thread would become this big when i first started it. wow.
#965
Evolving Member
iTrader: (17)
we have a new billet machined adapter for the block that we will be releasing shortly- to add a -12 in a creative way to the case itself
the issue we've seen in road race cars (on various configurations) is even with a Kiggly etc the oil simply cant return to the pan fast (easy) enough since there is no "true" crank case vent on the motor- its just a vented valve cover- and the oil is sharing its return orifices from the head back to the pan while there is pressure doing the opposite-
cb
the issue we've seen in road race cars (on various configurations) is even with a Kiggly etc the oil simply cant return to the pan fast (easy) enough since there is no "true" crank case vent on the motor- its just a vented valve cover- and the oil is sharing its return orifices from the head back to the pan while there is pressure doing the opposite-
cb
#967
Evolved Member
iTrader: (36)
Ok guys so I've been reading through this thread for a while now and I kind of feel like I screwed up. I picked up an AGP valve cover breather and installed it on my IX. The PCV side is untouched, its still being routed directly to the IM. My main concern now is there being no vacuum to pull pressure. What should I do?!
Here's a pic of it on my car. Once again the PCV side is untouched.
And here's the website link of it for reference
http://www.agpturbo.com/evolution-vi...over-breather/
Here's a pic of it on my car. Once again the PCV side is untouched.
And here's the website link of it for reference
http://www.agpturbo.com/evolution-vi...over-breather/
#968
Evolved Member
iTrader: (19)
Ok guys so I've been reading through this thread for a while now and I kind of feel like I screwed up. I picked up an AGP valve cover breather and installed it on my IX. The PCV side is untouched, its still being routed directly to the IM. My main concern now is there being no vacuum to pull pressure. What should I do?!
Here's a pic of it on my car. Once again the PCV side is untouched.
And here's the website link of it for reference
http://www.agpturbo.com/evolution-vi...over-breather/
Here's a pic of it on my car. Once again the PCV side is untouched.
And here's the website link of it for reference
http://www.agpturbo.com/evolution-vi...over-breather/
I used to have that breather. I tried it both ways, vented, and I also made my own hose that clamped on the top side where the filter would go, back into my oem intake using a reducer.
After going back and forth between the oem setup I just decided to ditch it. It didnt do anything more than what the oem setup was doing. I dont have logs to prove it, but I swear my idle was better when I ditched the filter for rerouting it back into the intake like the oem setup is. ymmv.
#969
Evolving Member
iTrader: (17)
When running an open breather you're introducing an air leak around the MAF, so at idle when air flow is lowest your % error is highest = potentially bad idle behavior.
Does anyone have a good source for a factory like valve cover fitting that's:
1) Bigger
2) Has a smooth bead to allow breather hose install and removal
The stuff at the hardware store is barbed and thus isn't easy to remove for service. For the same reason I don't want to run AN fittings as they're bulky and get hard to work around in an otherwise mostly stock looking engine compartment.
Does anyone have a good source for a factory like valve cover fitting that's:
1) Bigger
2) Has a smooth bead to allow breather hose install and removal
The stuff at the hardware store is barbed and thus isn't easy to remove for service. For the same reason I don't want to run AN fittings as they're bulky and get hard to work around in an otherwise mostly stock looking engine compartment.
#970
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Location: Melbourne Austrlia
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I have the radium setup on my evo.
But I found that the PCV valve was not doing its job on my car which was forcing oil to the intake side.
So I blocked the pipe to the intake manifold, removed the PCV valve (hose run straight to the can) and tee off the return line with both catch cans to the intake of the turbo. So far it works well and the can is working well after I changed the configuration 2 days ago.
I will have to remove the can and see what crap I collected after a weeks worth of driving...
Cheers.
But I found that the PCV valve was not doing its job on my car which was forcing oil to the intake side.
So I blocked the pipe to the intake manifold, removed the PCV valve (hose run straight to the can) and tee off the return line with both catch cans to the intake of the turbo. So far it works well and the can is working well after I changed the configuration 2 days ago.
I will have to remove the can and see what crap I collected after a weeks worth of driving...
Cheers.
#972
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Here is my fix.
Looks a little messy/crappy, partially because of the afpr/hoses, and the only good quality hose I had was blue... but it does the job and utilizes one of those ghetto ebay catch cans I drilled and tapped much larger fittings into. It's basically out of the way, and works.. so looks come after that imo.
When I pulled the valve cover to install the 272's, I drilled and tapped and put a short pipe in it. It does get some oil in the hose, but so far not enough to reach the catch can. (The can has two clear nylon tubes coming out of the bottom of it that I can use to drain, and the have nothing in them after approx 500 miles of driving (lots of tuning pulls etc.) And nothing coming out of the breather.
Just something to think about. It's easy to pull the valve cover, and when you look inside you can see why I chose that spot to drill/tap. Options are limited...
*updated picture added (changed to black hoses etc.)
Looks a little messy/crappy, partially because of the afpr/hoses, and the only good quality hose I had was blue... but it does the job and utilizes one of those ghetto ebay catch cans I drilled and tapped much larger fittings into. It's basically out of the way, and works.. so looks come after that imo.
When I pulled the valve cover to install the 272's, I drilled and tapped and put a short pipe in it. It does get some oil in the hose, but so far not enough to reach the catch can. (The can has two clear nylon tubes coming out of the bottom of it that I can use to drain, and the have nothing in them after approx 500 miles of driving (lots of tuning pulls etc.) And nothing coming out of the breather.
Just something to think about. It's easy to pull the valve cover, and when you look inside you can see why I chose that spot to drill/tap. Options are limited...
*updated picture added (changed to black hoses etc.)
Last edited by GravityKnight; Nov 9, 2014 at 04:29 PM.
#973
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: fort collins, Colorado
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I have the radium setup on my evo.
But I found that the PCV valve was not doing its job on my car which was forcing oil to the intake side.
So I blocked the pipe to the intake manifold, removed the PCV valve (hose run straight to the can) and tee off the return line with both catch cans to the intake of the turbo. So far it works well and the can is working well after I changed the configuration 2 days ago.
I will have to remove the can and see what crap I collected after a weeks worth of driving...
Cheers.
But I found that the PCV valve was not doing its job on my car which was forcing oil to the intake side.
So I blocked the pipe to the intake manifold, removed the PCV valve (hose run straight to the can) and tee off the return line with both catch cans to the intake of the turbo. So far it works well and the can is working well after I changed the configuration 2 days ago.
I will have to remove the can and see what crap I collected after a weeks worth of driving...
Cheers.
#974
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Melbourne Austrlia
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I've travelled over 1000miles with the both plumbed to the intakes and I was in disbelief how much crap it collected over that period of time using e85 with a built motor. I would say its worth changing with plumbing both cans to the intake (unless someone tells me a reason for it being wrong)