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My mini battery review, I'm going to leave it short and sweet. For one, yes, I'm a distributor, 2nd I've been instructed specifically not talk about who's kit's these are in the photo's. 3rd I really don't know since I wasn't told or didn't get to see any logo's. I'm sure you will make your own opinions about what you see and make your judgments. I'm going to bring you my personal experience.
I was told the tie down plate had been left off because of they didn't want to put anyone on blast. I didn't get to actually see/hold the tie down either. Now, as for everything else I was able to hold the parts side by side and check them out. I'm sure the quality difference will shine through the photo's.
Brand A - started as a "flat sheet" of 1/8" thick aluminum, cut, bent and formed to make a battery tray. Pretty much able to see from the photo so, no need to really go into it. The post look very much like stock battery bolts that used the same type of wing nuts we all are used to seeing. Didn't see the tie down so, no comment.
The holes required for the tie down rods and the mounting of the tray assembly itself weren't centered. No one knew if they drill the holes before of after they bend it. There is a photo below that will show the not centered holes.
Nisei Engineering Genesis, is made from 6061 Aluminum. It's a CNC Billet assembly, the Genesis base, I was told starts out as a 1 1/8" thick plate and then the CNC machine process takes place. They machine the shape first, then the "pocket" to create the retaining walls to hold the battery in place. After this process is completed it has to be machined on the bottom side for surfacing. The battery post has to be machined in three steps because of it's unique design. The tie down plate is has 2 processes for machining, again, top, bottom before going to get colored and logo placed.
Huge benefit of CNC machined is the quality of the finish and the accuracy of the holes for mounting and assembly. Hardware provided is all stainless steel so, you won't worry about rust another benefit.
I'm sure you guys can see the difference. Additional photos below of the different angles.
Here is a layout of the parts unassembled.
Brand A - We're looking at the tray flipped over. This part is what would normally sit on the stock location of the battery platform and mount to the chassis itself. You can clearly see below that the bottom side of the tray has a wear pattern from rubbing against the chassis.
Here is a tape measure put along side of the damaged area so you can have a better idea of what it really looks like.
The Nisei Engineering mounting bracket has a section cut out where the tray mounts to the chassis. Below it you can see where brand A is getting damaged.
Here is a look at the base of the tray assemblies. You will notice the amount of work Brand A has in order to make it's base is several bends and some holes. For the most part Brand A has straight lines/edges. This is where the Nisei Engineering CNC really stands out. The outside shape, rounded corners, the machine lines created as the machining is being done. Passes to create the "pocket" area can be counted 12 passes but, 1 continuous process uninterrupted. I was told in order to make the pocket as deep as it is it would have to be machined 3 times with the same pattern because the cutting tool isn't long enough to get it with 1 shot. Not to mention it would cause problems due to the bit jumping arounds causing chips/chunking if you were to attempt to make it in 1 pass. The 3 relief's with counter sunk to allow for trunk, inverted, or horizontal mounting. Every process done to the Nisei Engineering piece is automated CNC including the tapping process to create threads. This ensures that the product will be uniformed to fit each application.
The mounting post for the battery assembly. Brand A uses the typical wing nut combination along with welded on flanges to the bottom of a long bolt or cut J hooks. First thing I noticed was the welding portion to the flange. The post were a little melted through...meaning was thinner in the area of the weld versus the original bolt/post diameter. The flanges lock into the bend at the base of the tray on the front side where it mounts to the chassis but, on the rear side it will free float/spin 360*. Occasionally, you will have to get a pair of pliers to keep the post from spinning while tightening the wing nut's down. The Nisei Engineering post is again CNC machined as you can see it's overall diameter is a lot thicker. The machine process on this I was told takes 3 steps in order to fulfill this design before any polishing or color can be added. The Nisei posts are held in with stainless stud which feeds into the base plate and then you can screw the post on to the bottom. The top portion is assembled with a stainless button head allen which uses a allen key to tighten down. Nothing is required to hold the post but, if there ever is a occasion where you need to you can simple use a wrench to hold the center of the post area where there is a Hex design available.
A look how the wing nut look's installed.
This photo you can see the are I was talking about with the where the weld meets the flange and the diameter getting smaller than the original. The Nisei tie down is mounted using a button head allen which is visible in the background.
Next up Brand B!
Brand B has a completely different design and it's a reverse mount compared to all the battery trays I've seen! So yes, the photos tagged are the correct view.
Brand B is also made from folded sheet aluminum. It's definitely more complex than the design of Brand A. Now 9 out of 10 times the sheet type trays are cut and drilled first before they are folded to shape. This makes sense since it would be more difficult to drilling a hole at a particular angle once it's folded especially if it's not at a 90 degree bend. The bad thing about this process is:
1) You have to know where your hole is going to end up. Meaning the distance and angle of the bend to figure it out.
2) The material used - How much it will give.
3) How much it will "spring back". Spring back rate is like memory, it will want to go back to it's original shape in short.
4) Because of these factor's it's very typical that the holes and slots created are "oversized". When you oversize a hole/slots it is more forgiving and will give you more cushion for mistakes.
Take a look at the photos below.
Gap not only to the right side but, to the top and bottom of the slot. Top and bottom play can affect the security of the battery movement. Side to side for alignment.
Next, you can see the alignment and finish. On this particular tray assembly it appears they use a laser cutting method. They did not take the time to clean the edges of the tray.
An example of using oversized holes can be seen here:
Again with the oversized holes/slots you are trying to increase your chances of fitment by giving yourself more cushion. As you can see from the this photo you can see there are threads on the inside of the hole.
The next series of photos will who how this process is less accurate when it comes to assembly the unit.
Here you can see why the threads appeared on the inside of the tie down plate. Even with the oversized holes this still was a problem or was a defected item that should have never been sold.
Now looking at the Nisei Engineering unit here again you can see the difference in the manufacturing process. CNC machining is rock solid! Precision at it's best!
I sure if you know a machinist or talk to one, they'll tell you they can hold tolerances of +/- .001" if required. They'll also tell you they have to hold +/- .005" all day long without a problem. What’s nice to know about this process is that you can do the finer things and enjoy come luxuries such as this simple bevel/chamfered edged. If your asking what the purpose of this is :
1) For de-burring the part and removing the rough edge.
2) It's slightly tapered to allow the bolt to hit the edge and slide into the hole straight.
3) Looks, machinist do this simply "because they can"
Here we'll take a look at the components side by side.
Posts versus post
Here is how the post for Brand B is assembled. There is something that was brought to my attention about this design along with it being a sheet formed tray. If you take a look you'll notice in order to hold the post in place it uses a allen bolt for both the top and bottom. This causes:
1) first the one on the top is fine but, the one on the bottom sticks out and now the tray can no longer sit flat.
2) Using 2 bolts to assemble the post leaves no way to hold the post secure. Which means the bolt can be difficult to tighten. I was assured that the photo was not tampered with and the part itself was not damaged for this purpose of showing everyone the flaws. They received this unit as the original customer upgraded to a billet aluminum tray kit.
As you can see the tray lifts off and creates a gap due to the bolt underneath.
Tie down, you can see the overall finish of the parts, machine versus laser cut.
The base of the units are completely different from the Nisei Engineering unit. Going back to precision, & fitment with sheet metal again here is another example of the difficulties of bending sheet formed trays after they've been cut to shape.
Rear view of the Brand B tray assembly.
Photo above you can see the "oversized" holes not being aligned correctly. The ring marks indicate the holes are not centered. Don't know whether it's because of the hole drilling process or if it's when the flat sheet is bent. Last possibility is that both of these trays which were on different cars, from different locations, and both brands we're defective. I would tend to believe that the trays are a reflection of the manufacturing process and sheet trays are less accurate or more difficult to hold tolerance.
Now, Brand B claims that it would work with a stock air box assembly. On this particular unit the original owner had to grind down the edge to create clearance between the stock box and mini battery tray. You can see how much material he took off in order to get fitment.
Again, note it's possible that this was defective but, likely that it was just the process of sheet metal work.
The other side was perfectly square.
Next up the batteries!
There are a few battery manufacturer's located in the United States. In short it's because of the restrictions. Enersys is one of the few that is well recognized manufacturer's & makers of the Genesis and Odyssey series batteries. There are several authentic rating systems you should be concerned with when looking for a mini battery:
1) CCA - aka "Cold Cranking Amps"
2) Reserve Capacity
These 2 are actually standards used by every battery manufacturer. These 2 qualities are probably the key's to know whether you should get a mini battery or relocate to the trunk with a larger battery. The sad part is a lot of these guys who make kits for the Evo 8 have either, mislead, are mistaken on the facts, really didn't know, or are just telling you what you want to hear. Now, this I know for a fact because, like you guys out there I'm an enthusiast as well. I have called several kit makers and asked about the battery kits and standard questions which you guys as me. The thing I found the most is they fudge the numbers on is the CCA. I'm sure many of you have experienced this first hand as well. Well I'm about to answer your questions with a simple photo about the CCA for the Odyssey PC680.
Regarding the CCA it's officially 220! Nothing more nothing less! About the PHCA - First Enersys themselves says this is not a official rating! (reference Enersys site) Next, there is a big difference between HCA vs CCA ( about 80* difference). Now, PHCA is something they've come up with to confuse the consumer! Again, going back to my own experience in dealing with kit makers. They've thrown the # 680 out there but, led me to believe it was the CCA. Again, could be just someone who : misspoke, was confused, or didn't know. Whatever the case may have been, I'm just putting it out there once and for all so, hopefully no one will have any questions when it comes to the CCA of the PC680.
Regarding the Reserve Capacity, this rating is what you want to know especially, if you're going to be using electronics in the car, a heavy stereo system, any accessories while the car is not on. Drivers who only drive once a week, daily drivers, and commuters will all have different habits and some may require additional equipment. Daily driver's who commute over 10 miles per start up usually have no problems. In this case, it's pretty safe to say more is better, less is worse. Where everyone typically goes wrong is they use interior lights, while listening to stereo, and got lap top going... we'll call it the mini office. This is where a lot of batteries are short lived.
These batteries are deep cycle batteries and can handle a lot. Once you understand the parameters of these batteries they are fairly low maintenance.
Last edited by Jedi@MaxumTec; Mar 4, 2010 at 05:00 PM.
The Nisei battery kit is awesome. I've had mine since the first announcement of these years ago. Even thought I'm back to stock, I still have their MBK in my car. Flawless.
Looks like they have updated their design a but from my original kit. Worth every penny IMO!
__________________ CLUBRALLIART.com - Unofficial Lancer Ralliart Club
"The only thing you have to remember about an Evo though, is that to get the best out of it, you need to go beyond the line where bravery becomes insanity." - Top Gear
If you are nice to the guys at maxum technologies they might cut you a deal. Ha ha just kidding their prices are super reasonable and I've been runny this mini battery kit along with their short route kit for an evo IX since October. The quality and fitment of this mini battery kit is unmatched, far above the competition. Their short route kit was an awesome buy as well.
Free bump for an awseome vender with awesome parts. <<<These guys have great customer service too.
P.S. Whats with the back ordered FMICs you know those things sell like hot cakes. I'll post up more praise when i get mine installed. Cheers guys
Price I would have to say is on par with everyone else's kits. For what you get versus what they supply. IT'S A DEAL!
If anyone wants pricing info, please PM only. I want to keep the content about quality and information about the different : materials used, build processes, and overall fit and finish.
Last thing, IF there is anyone who's got a different brand/tray kit from what is listed. I've been authorized to hand out discounts by Nisei as a trade up program. This way I will be able to put another side by side added to this thread! Again please contact me via PM for details!
I know a few vendors that aren't going to like this, however, your kit is nice and I have it on my car!
I was told this is the primary reason why no names are visible. In all fairness, I know a lot of people ask me about the differences between the Nisei & others. I think it's just much easier to let the products do the talking, not the vendors.
Any member who's in the market for quality product, I think this will help them figure out which type of product would be more suitable for their needs & meet their budgets.
I still don't understand why nisei is not more popular. I recently installed some nisei parts, their IC and full IC pipe kit. I must say I'm VERY impressed. Everything fits perfectly and the quality is A+. During summer time I will definetly datalog and see how well their IC performs but I have no doubt it will be just as good, if not better, as the other more well know brand names.
Jed is a great vendor that ships ASAP and has great prices and fantastic costumer service.
One thing I would recommend is make the prices on http://www.maxumtechnologies.com/ a little bit closer to the actual prices you offer here on evom. When I orginally saw your pricing I must say I was a little discouraged, but after seeing you FS posts and couple PM exchanges, the price was significantly lower then I expected.
__________________ Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
When blind people go crazy do they think the voices in their head are real people in the room?
Now, I've got to touch base today regarding the Mini Genesis Kits. First, thanks for the PM's. The number #1 thing I want to touch on is the exchange offers/upgrade discount.
I've only been authorized to accept offers on kits that are not featured on this review. Our goal is to be able to write 1 complete review that will feature as many kits as possible so, that you won't have to buy and figure it out after you get it. Bascially, showing you side by side views for you to determine what is best for you!
They've requested used kits for several reasons:
1) They want everyone in the world to own a Nisei Engineering kit!
2) The person who wants to update can confirm fit, and finish difference.
3) Used units will have an indication of the fitment and quality which will be visible.
4) Almost forgot!!! They don't want to buy something from their competitors if they don't have to! LOL, maybe I should change this to the #1 reason.
So, again guys if someone is out there that has another kit that is different and you want to see how it measures up. For all you tech guys who want to know spec's or want to know detailed comparisons. I'll let Nisei know how you want it presented and I'll try to get the info posted up!
Drop me a PM and we'll make it as painless as possible. Personally, I think it's a smoking deal which shouldn't be passed up.
Also, look at it as you will helping your fellow community brothers who've not stepped up and got one of these units yet.
Ok guy's have a Great Weekend! Party Hard! Be Safe! & we'll see you guys Monday!
and ty
When I orginally saw your pricing I must say I was a little discouraged, but after seeing you FS posts and couple PM exchanges, the price was significantly lower then I expected. 
