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Jul 27, 2009, 09:22 AM
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#16
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Evolved Member
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Location: Alabaster, AL
Posts: 667
Drives: 05' Evo, 00' BMW 323 Wagon, 94' Nissan Truck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsevo
Wow, good info. So as long as its still bleeding, the rod isn't adjusted too long?
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Correct
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Jul 27, 2009, 11:32 AM
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#17
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Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: ( 11)
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Location: Philly
Posts: 746
Drives: gg evo ix ssl
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crap, I dont know how much travel I should put. Ive moved the adjustment so much i don't even remember where the stock setting is. I have the pressure bleeder so Im sure its getting fresh fluid.
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Jul 27, 2009, 11:37 AM
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#18
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Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 930
Drives: 2003 RR Evo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daisaw1219
crap, I dont know how much travel I should put. Ive moved the adjustment so much i don't even remember where the stock setting is. I have the pressure bleeder so Im sure its getting fresh fluid.
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Well from how I'm reading Drifto's post, it wouldn't be getting fluid from your pressure bleeder if it was adjusted too long, so I wouldn't sweat it. Mine still gets fluid as well with it adjusted all the way out, so maybe every car is a little different. I actually found that when I adjusted mine too long the clutch pedal would stop moving before I hit the pedal stop (meaning the mc piston bottomed out), so I just shortened it a little until the pedal would bottom out at the same time the mc piston bottomed out.
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Jul 27, 2009, 12:18 PM
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#19
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Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: ( 11)
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Location: Philly
Posts: 746
Drives: gg evo ix ssl
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wait so your running a pedal stop? I dont have one, I pmed another user and they also said they didnt have one. Is the pedal stop required?
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Jul 27, 2009, 12:30 PM
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#20
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Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 930
Drives: 2003 RR Evo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daisaw1219
wait so your running a pedal stop? I dont have one, I pmed another user and they also said they didnt have one. Is the pedal stop required?
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Actually, I think you are running one.  There is a rubber pad half way up the clutch pedal arm that hits a plastic stop mounted on the firewall. When people say they have to run a pedal stop I am assuming they mean they have to make a longer one, because the car has one from the factory. As far as I know that is not required for the Spec ST though.
Now if you push the pedal with your hand and it is stopping before that rubber pad hits the firewall, then you are bottoming out your master cylinder piston, which I can't imagine is a good thing. I just made it so that the clutch pedal still hits the factory stop, thats all.
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Jul 27, 2009, 06:05 PM
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#21
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Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: ( 2)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: SC-Hanahan
Posts: 334
Drives: Evo IX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drifto
Stock MC is on the verge of being too small. As a result clutch adjustment and proper bleeding or essential to make this clutch work well. The notchyness will go away after a couple thousand miles (as the discs wear in). My clutch works very well now that there are some miles on it, but initially the clutch wouldn't fully disengage and would cause the car too move a little when first was selected from a dead stop. A bigger MC would correct this problem but until someone makes a 3/4" replacement (up from 5/8") the clutch will drag a little until the car wears in the discs.
Over extending the rod to try and combat this will lead to problems with the hydraulics so I'd advise against hyper extending the length of the clutch rod. The way I bleed them is to start with the rod at the stock length and then lengthen the clutch rod until you can no longer get the clutch to bleed - You will find that an over extended rod will not allow the MC to draw in fresh fluid as the pedal comes back up. Once this length is reached , shorten the clutch rod about a turn and lock it down. This will be the max you can lengthen the rod and still get a full pull of fluid when bleeding. After this preliminary adjustment, you shouldn't have to mess with it again. You will note that the car will want to move a little when engaging first and everything is cold. Shifting will also be a little notchy if you are trying to bang gears for the first 1,000 or so miles, but after a couple thou. this clutch will work great.
It is a very street friendly clutch and it can hold insane amount of power without all the chatter and rattles you typically find with a twin, but because the Evo's MC is a little too small, you willl have to put up with some notchyness initially. The pros greatly outweigh the cons. Just be patient with the clutch and you will find that it gets better with every mile.
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I don't find this acceptable because, if your clutch won't release properly, it will continue to turn the input shaft. This can cause grinding, or completely prevent your car from going into gear. I know it is not that bad for you guys, but I think you guys are wearing out your synchros when this is happening. I mean are you telling these guys they have to put "a couple thou" sand miles of this to their tranny on their brand new clutch?
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Jul 27, 2009, 09:20 PM
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#22
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Was all ready to pull trigger on this clutch until this thread popped up. It sound to me like a bigger piston is needed in master cylinder to get more travel out of TOB. yes if clutch is just disengaging enough your syncros are working over time.
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early evo nut rockin
evo1 and evo 4
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Jul 27, 2009, 11:11 PM
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#23
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Evolved Member
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Location: Philly
Posts: 746
Drives: gg evo ix ssl
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im starting to hear a whine or some type of hum on acel and decel under 3k rpms
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Jul 27, 2009, 11:27 PM
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#24
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Location: South Dakota
Posts: 519
Drives: RR Evo 9
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i get rattline and whining during dedcel at any rpm lvl but only on decel.
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WWDBD?
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Jul 28, 2009, 08:11 AM
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#25
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Location: Temecula, CA
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Drives: 2003 RR Evo
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Mine rattles like a mofo under decel, but I think its the transfer case.
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Jul 28, 2009, 02:55 PM
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#26
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Location: Philly
Posts: 746
Drives: gg evo ix ssl
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I wish Spec or sombody can come in and comment on their product
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Sep 13, 2009, 01:05 PM
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#27
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Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 188
Drives: '06 Evo 9 / '97 Supra Turbo
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Any updates on this?
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Sep 14, 2009, 08:10 PM
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#28
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Location: Clovis, New Mexico (not so good)
Posts: 794
Drives: '05 AS Evo VIII (96940011)
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I'm having someone locally install my P-Trim, I hope things go well...
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Sep 22, 2009, 01:32 PM
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#29
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Location: Alabama
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I just saw this thread and wanted to drop in and provide some info. It is important to remember that a properly functioning master is a must for proper actuation of any clutch. The Super-Twin clutch kits were developed for use with the stock Master Cylinder and as many of you know there are many, many people succussfully using the Super-Twin without issue.
If you have installed one of our units and are having issues relative to actuation the you need to insure that your master cylinder is adjusted properly. I have seen the need for a new master to be installed (2-3 times) and if your original master is weak as a result of use then it should be replaced.
If you want to check the unit for proper actuation, it should require no more than 3/8" of diaphragm compression to fully release the clutch. I hope this info helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
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Sep 22, 2009, 11:29 PM
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#30
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Evolving Member
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Location: Indiana
Posts: 474
Drives: a Evo 8
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I had this issue with my previous exedy twin disc, raise ur engagment on ur clutch pedal
That will get ride of the nocty feel
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Tags
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bleeding, clutch, disc, discs, disk, evo, explode, install, installation, instructions, ix, plate, spec, st, super, supertwin, twin  |
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