oil pump walked in housing - Page 3

wevo1985 · Jul 11, 2009, 04:29 AM

does anyone else make the shaft like the ams one or are they the only company?

kickin wing · Jul 11, 2009, 05:49 AM

I have had this happen on 2 separate occasions. You will notice the oil pressure slowly start to go to crap and then a whining noise.

If you take the pump apart you will have the gear cutting into the housing

Yamahar1 · Jul 11, 2009, 12:30 PM

Could you not put some type of bearing on the front side in place of the rubber seal?

wevo1985 · Jul 11, 2009, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kickin wing

I have had this happen on 2 separate occasions. You will notice the oil pressure slowly start to go to crap and then a whining noise.

If you take the pump apart you will have the gear cutting into the housing

how many miles apart did this happen? also what changes did you make?

kickin wing · Jul 11, 2009, 03:29 PM

This happened on two totally separate motors both had new oil pumps and the "OEM stub shaft"

The timing belt was not to tight because I have the correct tools to do it

if I ever removed them again I would get the balance shaft machined

wevo1985 · Jul 11, 2009, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kickin wing

This happened on two totally separate motors both had new oil pumps and the "OEM stub shaft"

The timing belt was not to tight because I have the correct tools to do it

if I ever removed them again I would get the balance shaft machined

ok, so you put the shafts back in? i have a good machine shop here so im going to look into having them make a copy of the ams shaft and if they can do it i can have that back sooner.

Yamahar1 · Jul 12, 2009, 01:43 PM

Could you not put a roller bearing in place of the rubber seal? Something like this or just some kind of spacer, like what is used on the balance shaft.

I would think that would hold it in place and give it the support it needs.....Yes? No? Maybe?

wevo1985 · Jul 13, 2009, 04:44 AM

i dont think that would work. the gear goes into the area and with out a proper seal it would leak. but the big concern is the gear fits on the flat part of the shaft.

CO_VR4 · Jul 13, 2009, 07:07 AM

There have been roller bearing setups made for DSMs in the past. Any capable machine shop can turn down a balance shaft as AMS does, and there are other less well known shops in the DSM world that have been doing that for more than a decade. Kudos to AMS, though, for offering this mod readily available to those who don't have access to it elsewhere.

Another thing that should be done to all oil pumps for Evos or DSMs when installing them is to relieve the edge of the gears very slightly on the side where they rub on the front cover so that they don't wear into the case when they have side pressure.

kickin wing · Jul 13, 2009, 07:15 AM

With the time and money to put a bearing in there you would be better ahead to just machine the shaft down.

With the shaft in there you will have better leverage on that pump shaft and oil fed bearings at both ends.

I have also noticed that leaving the shaft in helps with oil pressure its not as ungodly high as it would be with removing both of them

Yamahar1 · Jul 13, 2009, 11:47 AM

So....go with AMS race shaft and oil pressure will be a bit higher.....or go with the stub shaft and get the Kiggly oil pressure regulator http://www.shop.kigglyracing.com/pro...=1&productId=8

CO_VR4 · Jul 13, 2009, 12:17 PM

The Kiggley oil pressure regulator actually increases the oil pressure in the bottom of the motor by restricting the flow up to the head components...

Jackson Machine · Jul 14, 2009, 06:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CO_VR4

The Kiggley oil pressure regulator actually increases the oil pressure in the bottom of the motor by restricting the flow up to the head components...

Right....then he'll be complaining of noisy HLA's

To the OP, if the stub shaft was to blame then every single engine with one would experience pump failures. The fact that there are tens of thousands of 4G63's in DSM's and Evo's with stub shafts not eating pumps leads me to believe there was another problem. I'd look into proper belt tension or a faulty oil pump. Remanufactured and some aftermarket pumps have a poor track record.

kiggly · Jul 14, 2009, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jackson Machine

Right....then he'll be complaining of noisy HLA's

Actually, the lifters behave better with lower pressure to them and tend to clatter less often.

People also seem to forget, or maybe just not know, that the stub shaft is OEM mitsu production stuff. The 1.6L's got this setup.

Kevin

TalonTuner4G63 · Jul 14, 2009, 11:15 AM

As said earlier, the stub shaft should not be to blame in the case of an oil pump failure, unless you are using the aftermarket job without the oil groove and feed hole (TopLine). The Mitsu stub shaft is a factory piece, and is used in vehicles that had to stay alive for thousands of miles under warranty.

However, I would blame the person who installed the stub shaft if they did not assemble the pump back together properly. Or if you use thin ass oil (aghemmobil110w30aghem), rev the piss out of it, and change the oil infrequently/run trash through it, blame yourself. These pumps can live up to 200k miles if taken care of, they usualy fail due to some other cause besides the pump itself.