Help: Melting Catalytic Converters and More!!

[houckeah]

So I have been chasing some serious issues since I bought my evo 8 about 8 months ago. The guy I bought it from was a real liar. He told me it had no problems at all and that it was in perfect shape. Well, as it turns out, the only reason it had no problems is because he had a check engine light eliminator installed. Several months after I purchased it, and therein several months of running fine, the car's performance started to deteriorate. I've been fouling out spark plugs left and right, have brought it to several mechanics only to have them shooting in the dark, have melted 2 catalytic converters, and have had a handful of other issues that have arisen. I am finally going to seek help from my friends here at EvoM like I should have the day the first problem came up.

A brief history of the purchase: I did run a Carfax report which came up completely clean. It even showed the dates and mileage of every time the car was brought in for service. The guy I purchased it from disclosed most modifications to me before inspect of the car (modifications will be listed below). While I was inspecting the car, he kept bringing up more details, as if he thought I had noticed something slightly off (such as that he replaced the windshield, rear bumper, and wing). He told me he had raced it at the track a few times but was very careful and treated the car with respect. He did not tell me that he had installed a check engine light eliminator nor did he tell me that he was dealing with some serious issues therein. I do believe that he knew of the issues before he sold the car and couldn't or wouldn't fix them. I believe he found a temporary fix and ran away with his tail between his legs like a coward as soon as he thought he could get away with it.


Current Modifications:
* Walbro Fuel Pump
* TRE Built Transmission @ 30k miles
* ACT Clutch @ 30k miles
* Replaced Transfer Case @ 30k miles
* AEM Intake
* AEM Hardpipes w/ T-clamps
* RMR Down Pipe
* TurboXS Catback
* TurboTrix Dyno Reflash
* Perrin Rear Sway Bar
* Stainless Brake Lines
* Blitz Dual-SBC (Spec S?)

Current ODB-II Codes:
* P0171 - System too lean?
* P0202 - Injector Circuit Open, Cylinder 2?
I also usually have a misfire code for cylinder 2 however for the past few days this has not been reading.


Misc Info:
* The fuel pump relay had a lead that was disconnected. I replaced this and this fixed one serious issue that came up.
* The catalytic converter has now melted shut / gotten clogged two times. I am running essentially a straight pipe now, which is my old cat but completely hollowed out.
* I have replaced the spark plugs as well as the wires on a few occasions.
* I replaced the stock fuel pump with the Walbro fuel pump when the Mitsu dealership told me they believed that was my issue. This fixed nothing.
* A few months ago on a rainy day, the car sounded extremely odd and the the SRS light turned on. Since the day the light has not turned off.


Also, please note the following: I have ordered a stock exhaust as well as a stock intake. These parts will be put on within a week so I can start getting the car back to stock. I am hoping I can bring the car to the dealer and have the reflash the ecu for the "0300" code issue. I believe these issues will be easier to address when I have everything on my car back to stock. I do also have an Apexi NEO fuel computer in my possession that I have considered installing at some point. I'm not sure if the fuel computer will help, and that is another reason I have made this thread.


Please, I am posting this seeking advice on what I should try next or to see if anybody believes they know what is wrong with my car. Help? Thanks in advance.


Also, if I think of any other issues that I have forgotten I will add them below this line.

Addition:
* Currently there is a loud knock coming from the engine. It sounds similar to a lifter tick or injector tick only a lot louder. The car does not drive at all now. Please let me know if a recording could help diagnose the problem.

[o-townFLA]

Ever considered taking it to a Evo shop instead of the dealership...?

[EVO8emUp]

Forget about installing the stoak exhaust.
Install the stock rubber intake and start from there.
I have a stock air box that you can have, if you need one.

[houckeah]

Originally Posted by o-townFLA

Ever considered taking it to a Evo shop instead of the dealership...?

I've done both. I've taken it to 2 shops and the dealership a few times. The shop did find the fuel relay issue. They also replaced my spark plugs without a reason and without telling me. Since evos have relatively high boost, the spark plugs need to be gapped very small... that caused me some problems. I no longer trust shops nor do I trust Mitsu. That is a last resort.

Originally Posted by EVO8emUp

Forget about installing the stoak exhaust.
Install the stock rubber intake and start from there.
I have a stock air box that you can have, if you need one.

I like the sound of the stock exhaust, but if you think it won't help fix anything then I might delay in installing it. Indeed, I've found someone and payed someone on here to ship me the stock intake. Thank you for the offer though.


I appreciate the prompt replies. Currently there is a loud lifter tick type sound, possibly injectors, going on... very very loud. Concerns me greatly.



With the stock intake and exhaust, I will need to get it reflashed, correct? The dealership "0300" error should do the trick or no?

[BluEVOIX]

What is your car currently boosting at?

[houckeah]

The guy I purchased it from had it boosting from 1.5bars to just shy of 2 bars, which is 29 psi. This is another thing I believe he was very stupid for doing. I currently have it boosting to 1.4 bars, which is 20 psi. Could his setting on the boost controller have damaged the car?

Currently there is a loud knock coming from the engine. It sounds similar to a lifter tick or injector tick only a lot louder. The car does not drive at all now. Please let me know if a recording could help diagnose the problem.

[meckert]

.02, sounds like your over boosting, you may have rod knock and your running too lean causing the melted cat issue.

[houckeah]

Definitely running too lean. How do I tell if it is rod knock? Should I run a quick search to find some info?

[Evo8Emperor]

Visit the ecu flash forum and start reading up there. You can reflash your car yourself to rid yourself of the po 300. All you need to buy is a 90$ tactrix cable from tunertools.com or openecu.org.

On openecu.org there will be two program you want. One is free and its called Ecu Flash. It is for downloaiding the rom off your ecu to read and flash it. The cable is needed to connect to the obd-II port to a usb for the computer and its good for any obd-II car.

The other program you want is Evo Scan you have to pay for it but its 25$ and it logs your car.

Not sure if you knew any of this but a lot of what you want to take your car to a shop or dealership is easily done yourself.

[houckeah]

The only reason I mention the "0300" error code is because I know Mitsu will essentially unflash your ECU when they are fixing that error code. I don't have the error code. I am planning on removing the aftermarket exhaust and intake that the moron I bought my car from put on. If I do this, I do need to reset the ECU back to factory, no?

Also, just a note... I looked up info on rod knock and found that if a bent a rod or damaged a rod there should be metal in my oil. There is no metal in my oil at all. I'm not sure where to go from here.

[houckeah]

Bump for help. Should I make a recording with my cell phone?

[andrewzaragoza]

also if you intend to fix it yourself better get a wideband like zeitronix or lc-1. you will need this to be able to properly diagnose the issue as well as tune the car properly. where in ny are you? there are a couple of respectable evo shops around the area.

[kwanza]

A good flash tuner should be able to resolve the issues. I had the factory reflash done by dealer and still have had 0300 issues, besides the factory tune is too rich. Since my custom tune i have had no issues with driveability.

Also you may want to have a mechanic inspect the car, to sort out any issues.

Choose an evo specific tuner, this will probably net the best results. I can vouch for RRE in Santa Fe Springs, but they are probably too far from you.

I would keep the aftermarket parts if they are of good quality.

Or you can try to learn to do it yourself like others have suggested.

[houckeah]

Originally Posted by kwanza

A good flash tuner should be able to resolve the issues. I had the factory reflash done by dealer and still have had 0300 issues, besides the factory tune is too rich. Since my custom tune i have had no issues with driveability.

Also you may want to have a mechanic inspect the car, to sort out any issues.

Choose an evo specific tuner, this will probably net the best results. I can vouch for RRE in Santa Fe Springs, but they are probably too far from you.

I would keep the aftermarket parts if they are of good quality.

Or you can try to learn to do it yourself like others have suggested.

The aftermarket parts aren't good quality though, in my opinion. I've had mechanics inspect the car, but the problem is that there are no mechanics around here. Nobody in my area knows what they are doing. Everybody can turn a wrench and change the oil but nobody can tell me what is actually going wrong.

Originally Posted by andrewzaragoza

also if you intend to fix it yourself better get a wideband like zeitronix or lc-1. you will need this to be able to properly diagnose the issue as well as tune the car properly. where in ny are you? there are a couple of respectable evo shops around the area.

Definitely will do. I'm located near Buffalo NY. I don't think I have any too close to my area.

[thatguy]

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/

These guys should be able to help you out and there about an hr and 20 minutes away from you (Rochester, NY).