2.0L OR 2.1L help me figure this out.

evodan2004 · Jul 3, 2009, 05:46 PM

ok well here i am. i have had a very crappy few weeks. i will make a long story short. i been out of the game for nearly 7 months due to last year i broke the trans. ''4th gear broke'' so i finally got around to fixing the car. i had a full trans rebuild with some of my own options added, i had a new clutch installed and had the transfer case also rebuilt and added a Quaife lsd.

i pick the car up from the shop last friday ''june 26, 09'' and drove it home. it was great to be back in the seat again that was for sure. the trans and clutch felt awesome. i was so happy i got my car back. all that was left was to brake it in and go to the track. i couldent wait.

then sat morning roles by and its summer nationals at e'town race way and i promised Geoff ''my great friend and snail provider'' that i would show my car in his booth since i could not run. well on my way down there Saturday morning it happened. the motor pooped. through a rod through the block and that was it. here is the best part. i beet the hell out of this car and it never missed a beat on me ever. till the trans broke. here i am in 5th gear 65ish mph not even boosting the car blasting some MJ ''r.i.p. MJ'' and it broke. we was in traffic no less. i don't get it. maybe these cars need to be smacked around every time we drive them.

anyways 7 months of down time and then not even 12 hours later im back to the garage sitting broken down. such great luck.

here is my reason for this thread. another long story short the crank on the car looks perfect to the eye. its being sent out to make sure its true/straight. if it is i have a great person giving me a perfect 4g64 block for free. so that saves me some cash right there. if the crank is bad then i am most likely going to buy a full 2.0L rotating assembly and have this thread removed as i will just keep the car 2.0l. but if the crank is good i can buy a 2.0L block or do the 2.1L setup. with that said im looking for people who have 2.0 AND 2.1L experience. i need a run down of pro's and con's of the 2.1L what setups others are using in there 2.1L motor and how its working out. also post the mods and power output of the car. and how you treat the car. i use my car hard VERY hard on the streets and drag race it on the weekends when its nice out. in other words a true street driven machine. power output of the car after this build will be over 700hp.

also looking for hard data of 2.0 and 2.1L trq curve comparisons and same for HP. so with all that said HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELPPPPPP so i can start buying stuff. haahha.

thanks to thoughs who helped and added some good info. also i want to thank the people who are with me through this hard time i am having. friendship and support mean alot to me and i could probably not handle this without you guys. who know who you are. thanks.

evodan2004 · Jul 4, 2009, 08:46 AM

olmoscd · Jul 4, 2009, 08:53 AM

Dynoflash Al is selling a 2.1. Entirely built, balanced and blueprinted by buschur. Check it out:

Buschur 2.1 L Race Motor - new no core needed

evodan2004 · Jul 4, 2009, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olmoscd

Dynoflash Al is selling a 2.1. Entirely built, balanced and blueprinted by buschur. Check it out:

Buschur 2.1 L Race Motor - new no core needed

thanks. but thats not what i asked for

TTP Engineering · Jul 4, 2009, 08:57 AM

2.1 is not a good choice for the street. The 2.0 is the best platform for drag racing.

evodan2004 · Jul 4, 2009, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TTP Engineering

2.1 is not a good choice for the street. The 2.0 is the best platform for drag racing.

ok why?? explain

apagan01 · Jul 4, 2009, 09:03 AM

Dan

sorry to hear this.

GL with your new build,

you have a pm brother

evodan2004 · Jul 4, 2009, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by apagan01

Dan

sorry to hear this.

GL with your new build,

you have a pm brother

Thanks bro

crcain · Jul 4, 2009, 01:48 PM

I think for all the little issues with a 4G64, it's a bit of a waste if your not going with a longer stroke crank. The stock 2.0l revs super high anyway so why would you want to rev the motor any higher? And the extra .1l of displacement I don't think will make much difference spool wise.

If you run a 4G64 you will be worrying about modifying your water pump, maybe your headers will touch the bonnet since the head sits 6mm taller. You'll be worried about headgaskets depending on your budget and bore size. My alternator bracket needed slight fabbing, etc. You'll be using rods and pistons which are less common maybe than the 4G63 stuff.

I'd only go 4G64 if you really want to go with a big crank stroke. Otherwise, there are so many proven combos for the 4G63.

dsevo · Jul 4, 2009, 03:03 PM

If you use the 4g64 you're probably gonna want to have oil squirters added, but if the block is free that should offset the costs. If you really want to go on the cheap you can use the squirters from your evo block, but I don't think I'd do that. The 4g64 can turn into a very high revving motor with an exceptional r/s ratio, but as mentioned earlier it does have its quarks.

evodan2004 · Jul 4, 2009, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crcain

I think for all the little issues with a 4G64, it's a bit of a waste if your not going with a longer stroke crank. The stock 2.0l revs super high anyway so why would you want to rev the motor any higher? And the extra .1l of displacement I don't think will make much difference spool wise.

If you run a 4G64 you will be worrying about modifying your water pump, maybe your headers will touch the bonnet since the head sits 6mm taller. You'll be worried about headgaskets depending on your budget and bore size. My alternator bracket needed slight fabbing, etc. You'll be using rods and pistons which are less common maybe than the 4G63 stuff.

I'd only go 4G64 if you really want to go with a big crank stroke. Otherwise, there are so many proven combos for the 4G63.

thank you. A post worth reading.

Few questions if you don't mind. I am new to the built motor thing so excuse my newbieish questions. I thought with a 4g63 crank and a 64 block with longer rods made it a longer stroke.

As for the water pump and other stuff I don't really mind other then the head gasket issue. apone my research the hg issue is always a concern from what I see.

dsevo · Jul 4, 2009, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by evodan2004

thank you. A post worth reading.

Few questions if you don't mind. I am new to the built motor thing so excuse my newbieish questions. I thought with a 4g63 crank and a 64 block with longer rods made it a longer stroke.

As for the water pump and other stuff I don't really mind other then the head gasket issue. apone my research the hg issue is always a concern from what I see.

The crank is what affects stroke. Using longer rods just improves rod/stroke ratio, but has no effect on stroke.

evodan2004 · Jul 5, 2009, 09:15 PM

went with a 2.0l block

gvr4737 · Jul 6, 2009, 09:10 AM

wow , sorry to here this happened man. I heard the car was coming back on the streets and i was super excited to see you driving it around.

Honestly, depending on your power/torque goals i would totally consider a nice built 2.0. Most of the big Evo's are on 2.0's and have shown great power levels. Strokers are always a nice choice but i feel for a daily driven car, which i know you like to do . A built 2.0 would be your best option. I know in my future i am defintly considering picking up another 2.0 to build and keeping it at that is my decision. I think with the turbo set up that your running currently you will see a great power out of a built 2.0, especially if you go with an amazing head and rev to the moon.

just my 2cents

ScorpionT · Jul 6, 2009, 11:30 AM

I prefer to use the 4g63 block myself, I dont like dicking around with adding oil squirters, the taller deck, stuff like that. However I will say, the 2.1 long rod setup is pretty sweet, you can rev them like mad and still be reliable, theyre great for drag racing. You wont see much difference in spool though, its not like going to a 2.3 stroker.