Best bang for the buck mod? - Page 3

YzBrad99 · Jun 5, 2009, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsevo

Exhaust, drop in filter, mbc, and a tune on e85 will surprise you, especially if you think the car has decent power now.

+1

No e85? than do a 110 race gas map

JediGillTees · Jun 5, 2009, 02:53 PM

Knowing what I know now.. if i Had to do it all over.. it would be.

Stage 0 - Short on cash but want a low cost mod for good quick horsepower.
1. Boost Controller
2. Tune

Whp will bump your power to about 280whp Car stock is about 250whp.

Stage 1 - Breathing Stage
1. Full Exhaust from the turbo Back - Test pipe is optional
2. 02 housing
3. Lower Intercooler Pipe
4. Amsoil Intake with MAF Adapter. - Please do not put a pipe on the car It will cause funky stalling and idling problems Stock intake is good however until about 350whp. But if you know you'll eventually want more power just get it now.
5. Re-Tune for these parts

This should put you around 325 whp

Stage 2 - Power Adders
1. Kelford 272 Cams with GSC Behive Springs Stock retainers are good enough for now.
2. 255 Walboro Fuel Pump
3. 880 Injectors
4. Front mount intercooler
5. Re-Tune for these mods

This should put you around 365whp on pump gas.

Stage 3 - Getting more expensive but great power adders
1. Twin Disk Clutch Either Quartermaster or Exedy - Your launches will be so much better with this.
2. a FP RED, Tomei, or BBK Turbo to start with.
3. Port match everything. Your Exhaust manifold, Turbo, O2 Housing.
4. Get Meth injection or Put Race gas on the car
5. Tune for these new parts.

This should put you over 430whp or about 480whp on Meth or Race Gas Tune.

I could go on.. but for now I think this is within your limits.

Keep in mind.. somewhere along the line.. you'll want to buy a boost gauge, and Wideband Gauge. These evo's to mod surely aren't cheap.

Wickedwhite8 · Jun 5, 2009, 02:57 PM

Ebay FMIC includes piping, 100% meth, 880 injectors 255 walbro. exhaust and intake if you dont have them. Have fun

project_skyline · Jun 5, 2009, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JediGillTees

Knowing what I know now.. if i Had to do it all over.. it would be.

Stage 0 - Short on cash but want a low cost mod for good quick horsepower.
1. Boost Controller
2. Tune

Whp will bump your power to about 280whp Car stock is about 250whp.

Stage 1 - Breathing Stage
1. Full Exhaust from the turbo Back - Test pipe is optional
2. 02 housing
3. Lower Intercooler Pipe
4. Amsoil Intake with MAF Adapter. - Please do not put a pipe on the car It will cause funky stalling and idling problems Stock intake is good however until about 350whp. But if you know you'll eventually want more power just get it now.
5. Re-Tune for these parts

This should put you around 325 whp

Stage 2 - Power Adders
1. Kelford 272 Cams with GSC Behive Springs Stock retainers are good enough for now.
2. 255 Walboro Fuel Pump
3. 880 Injectors
4. Front mount intercooler
5. Re-Tune for these mods

This should put you around 365whp on pump gas.

Stage 3 - Getting more expensive but great power adders
1. Twin Disk Clutch Either Quartermaster or Exedy - Your launches will be so much better with this.
2. a FP RED, Tomei, or BBK Turbo to start with.
3. Port match everything. Your Exhaust manifold, Turbo, O2 Housing.
4. Get Meth injection or Put Race gas on the car
5. Tune for these new parts.

This should put you over 430whp or about 480whp on Meth or Race Gas Tune.

I could go on.. but for now I think this is within your limits.

Keep in mind.. somewhere along the line.. you'll want to buy a boost gauge, and Wideband Gauge. These evo's to mod surely aren't cheap.

I agree with his discription of the 'stages'.

I would say hands down a tune is the best mod EVER. Just look at indy evo lol.

GPTourer · Jun 5, 2009, 03:54 PM

Nice post. I just want to clarify here, you mean "filter" instead of intake, as your advice is to avoid changing the stock intake pipe because it confuses the MAF.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JediGillTees

4. Amsoil Intake with MAF Adapter. - Please do not put a pipe on the car It will cause funky stalling and idling problems Stock intake is good however until about 350whp. But if you know you'll eventually want more power just get it now.

Vizualmadness · Jun 5, 2009, 04:33 PM

loving all the valuable info!! thanks to everyone! so its deff a bad idea to get the complete intake tube and filter? was looking at the k&n typhoon

Sharkbite2000 · Jun 5, 2009, 04:34 PM

Just get a turbo kit exhaust no exhaust your going to make power

Vizualmadness · Jun 5, 2009, 07:05 PM

lol. might be a dumb question but i will ask anyway....wat management do i need to tune the car with or is stock ecu reprogramable?

MOREPSiTEHBETT4 · Jun 5, 2009, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sharkbite2000

Just get a turbo kit exhaust no exhaust your going to make power

agreed, after spending so much modifying my STi, I wish I would have just swapped turbo's first....all the bolt on's help, but in the long run a swapped turbo is what you end up doing anyway, might as well do that first and only put bolt on's on that are necessary to putting down the power that that big lb/min turbo needs(injectors, intakes, fuel pumps, fuel rails, certain bolt # exhaust manifolds...so stuff you NEED to run the swapped turbo) so you will spend less money on bolt on's you didn't NEED

plus, the more non oem stuff you run the easier it is for your car to have issues

GPTourer · Jun 6, 2009, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MOREPSiTEHBETT4

agreed, after spending so much modifying my STi, I wish I would have just swapped turbo's first....

A stock Evo turbo is far better then what STis start out with. He's asking about best bang for buck, not the quickest way to 4-500whp.

Vizualmadness · Jun 6, 2009, 10:38 AM

yea i really dont want to upgrade the turbo....just want to make around 350 to the wheels

JediGillTees · Jun 6, 2009, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GPTourer

Nice post. I just want to clarify here, you mean "filter" instead of intake, as your advice is to avoid changing the stock intake pipe because it confuses the MAF.

My apologizes.. you are correct.. I mean Amsoil Air Filter. The cone Style one. I used to have a AEM Cold air intake.. and the car idled like crap. It often stalled on me at red lights and stop signs. I put the Stock Snorkel back on removing the AEM hard pipe and it ran like a champ. My guess is the gills (accordian like corners) on the stock intake pipe help with the idle quite a bit. I know it sounds intuitive to have a smooth pipe but honestly with the stock MAF this will only confuse it and cause many idling issues.

Indy Evo · Jun 6, 2009, 11:08 AM

Find a quality stock ECU tuner (Jester, CWill, or Mellon for example) and stick with a couple of mods (I used a MBC and a Perrin air filter) and refine the tune. At the level of whp you want to make it won't take much to get there.

MuslimEvoFreak · Jun 6, 2009, 11:09 AM

Turbo back exhaust
Lower intercooler pipe
Manual boost controller
Drop in Filter (or get an intake if not using stock MAF)
Fuel pump
Wideband
Tune (most beneficial for these cars period!)
Injecters ( plan on running E-85)
E-85

JediGillTees · Jun 6, 2009, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vizualmadness

loving all the valuable info!! thanks to everyone! so its deff a bad idea to get the complete intake tube and filter? was looking at the k&n typhoon

NO!!!!!

Just keep the stock pipe and air filter.. Trust me.. For your power goals.. you can keep the stock intake to about 350whp.. And you won't really notice a thing.

Leave this alone.. Go for a boost controller and a tune first if youre strapped on cash and want power.

Evo's come very rich from the factory on Stock tune. The do this because 93 octane isn't available everywhere in the United States.. Evo's come detuned to compensate to work safely wherever they are sold. A Tune alone from a stock Evo can net you over 20-25 whp. Not changing any parts. Add a Boost controller to up the boost and you'll be happy