Need Advice for Timing Belt Replacement
Mar 27, 2009, 05:40 PM
#16
Evolved Member
There are a two things you need to decide before starting this job.
First, how are you going to hold the crank pulley when removing the bolt that attaches it. This bolt is torqued to air tools territory so when you put the air wrench to it you don't want it moving. Second, how are you going to set the hydraulic tensioner. The manual lists several methods. Pick one and have whatever you need available to do that method. Getting the tension right is the difference between pass and fail.
Mark the old belts with white paint and extend those marks onto the sprockets. Transfer the marks to the new belts. The cams always move when the belt is pulled so the marks allow you to get the cams in time again - well, the marks assure you that everything is right.
Finally, $98 for an accessory belt seems a bit pricey to me.
First, how are you going to hold the crank pulley when removing the bolt that attaches it. This bolt is torqued to air tools territory so when you put the air wrench to it you don't want it moving. Second, how are you going to set the hydraulic tensioner. The manual lists several methods. Pick one and have whatever you need available to do that method. Getting the tension right is the difference between pass and fail.
Mark the old belts with white paint and extend those marks onto the sprockets. Transfer the marks to the new belts. The cams always move when the belt is pulled so the marks allow you to get the cams in time again - well, the marks assure you that everything is right.
Finally, $98 for an accessory belt seems a bit pricey to me.
Nov 7, 2010, 05:43 PM
#23
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You can buy the kit from Russel, look at the mitsubishiparts.net section.
The idler behind the power steering bracket is a pita to change. Of course the ps bracket bolts were very difficult to break and the space is limited. I ended up having to pull the pump and reservoir to get the braket loose. I even though about hacking up the bracket with a cut off wheel so I could get to the bolt if I ever do it again. But I didn't cause I was too pissed at that point, and will be cursing myself for not doing it the next time.
I used a breaker bar to set the tensioner pulley, and it worked fine. The whole key is to make sure the grenade pin can slide in and out freely after you set the tension. It doesn't matter which tool you use, it just matters that you get the same end result.
There's no need to stick a screwdriver in the block either. Just make sure the balancer falls the correct way (can't remember which way, but it's an old DSM trick) and you don't have to worry about it being out of phase.
The biggest issues I had was with the ps pump to remove and mount the idler pulley and the bolts on the top/rear of the water pump, as I couldn't see them and had to do it Ray Charles style. Oh, another tip, use a real thin bead of silicon to hold the water pump gasket on when you're trying to put the new water pump on. Will save you a lot of time.
The idler behind the power steering bracket is a pita to change. Of course the ps bracket bolts were very difficult to break and the space is limited. I ended up having to pull the pump and reservoir to get the braket loose. I even though about hacking up the bracket with a cut off wheel so I could get to the bolt if I ever do it again. But I didn't cause I was too pissed at that point, and will be cursing myself for not doing it the next time.
I used a breaker bar to set the tensioner pulley, and it worked fine. The whole key is to make sure the grenade pin can slide in and out freely after you set the tension. It doesn't matter which tool you use, it just matters that you get the same end result.
There's no need to stick a screwdriver in the block either. Just make sure the balancer falls the correct way (can't remember which way, but it's an old DSM trick) and you don't have to worry about it being out of phase.
The biggest issues I had was with the ps pump to remove and mount the idler pulley and the bolts on the top/rear of the water pump, as I couldn't see them and had to do it Ray Charles style. Oh, another tip, use a real thin bead of silicon to hold the water pump gasket on when you're trying to put the new water pump on. Will save you a lot of time.
Nov 23, 2010, 12:31 AM
#25
I can get the oem timing belt for $55 personally, so if you need it cheaper you can contact me.. dont ever get an off brand on ebay. gates/oem/power enterprise/greddy/ etc are all ok.
however i have experienced gates belts are so stiff they will shed blue stuff, so im never getting another gates ever again. gates are overly harsh on pulleys as well and will create abnormal wear on bearings if not tensioned perfectly. I like power enterprise. OEM belt ive seen on 800whp evo's.. personally i like power enterprise though. get whatever makes you feel safe lol.
however i have experienced gates belts are so stiff they will shed blue stuff, so im never getting another gates ever again. gates are overly harsh on pulleys as well and will create abnormal wear on bearings if not tensioned perfectly. I like power enterprise. OEM belt ive seen on 800whp evo's.. personally i like power enterprise though. get whatever makes you feel safe lol.
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