Forge WG Actuator

AcePitcher11 · Feb 15, 2009, 11:03 PM

I have a Forge waste gate actuator that I am getting ready to install. My question is that I will be running 30psi or more and I have read that with the Forge you need to cut 1/4inch off of the rod so it will hold 23 or 24psi. I can't remember if its so the preload is right or what it is. So anybody using a Forge actuator and running high boost how much of the rod did you cut and what does your waste gate pressure at?

DimitrisIX · Feb 16, 2009, 12:58 AM

if you have the latest piston type forge with the red spring, you can easily hold 24 psi by not cutting anything.

whoang40 · Feb 16, 2009, 01:13 AM

When I installed mine on my green I didn't have to cut anything. I just had to turn the arm counterclockwise to extend it a little bit to attach it the wastegate flapper. Then put the metal pin in and was good to go. I'm boosting at 26psi with no problems.

Mario · Feb 16, 2009, 10:06 AM

+1. I did not have to cut mine either. My red spring gave me 23psi on spring pressure and 30 psi with the MBC.

AcePitcher11 · Feb 16, 2009, 07:48 PM

thanks for the responses....anybody else have any input?

evo@24psi · Feb 16, 2009, 07:51 PM

I have one 28-30psi and never heard of cutting.

sparky · Feb 16, 2009, 09:01 PM

Don't just go and cut the actuator rod. Test it out on your combo and see how it works FIRST, then get back to us. The cutting of the actuator rod was with Forge's VIII actuator, since the distance varied depending on whether the VIII turbo was equipped with the 9.8, or the 10.5 turbine housing.

However, even in the case of the VIII turbo and Forge actuator, it depended on your particular situation. For example, which size turbine housing and just exactly how much preload you wanted to run on your WG. Don't just a priori chop an indeterminate length off the actuator rod. There are some variables involved.

EDIT: Incidentally I am impressed with your ten second E.T., and that 130 mph trapspeed with the Green! Please post up a detailed Buschur modlist and the type of fuel! Also, if you want a more specific formula for setting the preload for 30#, then send me a PM and I'll be glad to help.

EDIT 2: There is a way to increase preload beyond 23-24#, w/o having to resort to cutting the actuator rod. Just let me know. At any rate you should first try adjusting it to the max w/o cutting. If that isn't enough then I'll let you in on a secret which will allow you to run 26-28# of preload w/o cutting the length of the actuator rod.

theshadow · Mar 25, 2009, 02:46 PM

More info on preloading the Forge WGA please.

I run a Forge WGA and Unos MBC - am boosting about 1.5 bar consistently but want to be able to run aound 1.9 bar. Seems adjusting the MBC doesn't do much - even on one or two clicks from fully open I can only get a spike to 1.8 which tapers off to 1.5 by redline.

Am thinking increasing the preload on the WGA and lowerin the boost on the MBC will help even things out (but may just be thinking wrong!).

How much preload do you guys generally run on the WGA? Is it just maxed out? And what are the side effects of messing with preload?

Tx!

Positron · Mar 25, 2009, 03:48 PM

I have a brand new Forge WGA Evo IX application. How can I found out if it has the stiffer red spring?

Mike@Forge · Mar 25, 2009, 03:50 PM

Look at the box it came in.

If there is a small red sticker next to the label, it should have the red spring in it.

jmelocik · Mar 25, 2009, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike@Forge

Look at the box it came in.

If there is a small red sticker next to the label, it should have the red spring in it.

Mike! Good to hear from the source himself. I ran the Forge WGA with the red spring and neutral preload and had absolutely no problem hitting 24.5 psi. I am sure with max preload I could have hit much higher boost levels. BTW I was on a stock 05 VIII turbo which came stock with the 10.5 hotside.

Sparky, PM me the details on setting the preload higher without cutting the rod. I've no longer got a stock turbo but the guy that bought mine would be glad to do it so he can run higher boost! Thanks

Josh

kekek · Mar 25, 2009, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sparky

EDIT 2: There is a way to increase preload beyond 23-24#, w/o having to resort to cutting the actuator rod. Just let me know. At any rate you should first try adjusting it to the max w/o cutting. If that isn't enough then I'll let you in on a secret which will allow you to run 26-28# of preload w/o cutting the length of the actuator rod.

Let me guess. You shim the spring inside the actuator? This will create a higher spring load before the actuator moves (vents).

sparky · Mar 25, 2009, 08:59 PM

Maybe your method would work. But, no, your guess is wrong. This is not my ultra stealth trick for increasing preload beyond the point where the actuator rod bottoms out inside the internally threaded turnbuckle. Guess again

LOL

sparky · Mar 25, 2009, 09:21 PM

A couple of guys running Meth and 30+ PSI peak boost on IX turbos equipped with Forge WGA's wanted to run more than 25 PSI of spring pressure. So, they ended up having to cut a bit off the end of the actuator rod, because they couldn't get over 23-25 PSI of spring pressure as the rod bottomed out inside the turnbuckle.

This got me wondering if there might not be a neater way, w/o cutting, to shorten overall actuator rod length. I had both the VIII and a IX Forge WGA's at home. When I compared the two I noticed that the older design VIII Forge actuator has a shorter turnbuckle than the Forge IX WGA does.

So, by installing a turnbuckle from a Forge VIII WGA onto the actuator rod of your Forge IX WGA you effectively shorten the overall length of the actuator rod. This is a totally plug and play mod it just threads right on and will shorten overall actuator rod length approximately 3/8-1/2 inch.

theshadow · Mar 26, 2009, 04:21 AM

Sorry to bug, and I hope I'm not threadjacking, but what's the proper way to adjust the preload and what should it be set at, or what's the process for setting it to the right level?

Is it something I can do by simply lifting the bonnet and going at it with a wrench?

I can see the arm there, can see the nut to turn and can see the pin but before I go tearing at it myself I'd like a little info on what I should be doing.

Turn the arm or turn the nut? Clockwise or anti-clockwise to raise preload?

How far should I go and what should I expect?

Sorry for the n00b questions, just hoping for a little help and guidance since there's nobody I can trust where I live.

On a positive note, the Forge WGA and Forge UNOS MBC seem to work very well with my BBK Lite turbo. The stock actuator/Profec II combo I was running was giving me horrible spikes and horribly inconsistent boost - it would sometimes lag and then hit all at once out of nowhere! I ended up getting "boosted" into a kerb coming out of a corner one time and that's when the old combo went in the bin.

Love the new setup, totally progressive and predictable and perfectly responsive to my throttle inputs. Just need to get the boost level up to 1.9 bar which is what I'm tuned for.

Any help much appreciated!