2.3L GT3076Build - Page 3

jid2 · Aug 18, 2008, 10:26 PM

Well I worked on things a little more over the week and into the weekend. I'm waiting on a friend to get back from Mexico to pull the engine out, so I haven't been working too hard. I'm all ready to yank it now - everything is disconnected.

I test fit the new turbo so I could think about a vertical flow intercooler setup. I'm kinda over it now. Unless I remove the AC and do some serious hacking to the front end I can't fit a properly sized IC in a vertical configuration. So maybe I'll do it some other time. I'll look for a good deal on a standard style intercooler to replace my stocker for the short term, and just build a new lower IC pipe.

I've swapped motors in others cars before, but this is my first time on an EVO. It's always a learning experience the first time. I might write-up a quick list of the general steps as I didn't see one anywhere.

I didn't have a slide hammer, and after trying to simply pull on the output shaft I could see it wasn't just coming out. So I considered going and buying a slide hammer - a quick interweb search showed they were more money thanI felt like spending. And I felt like doing some welding. So I grabbed a few scraps of metal laying around my garage and fired up the TIG welder and built my own ghetto slide hammer. It dominated the output shaft with a couple quick wacks.

Me fishing the impact gun into location to unbolt the transfer case from the transmission.

I should have the engine out sometime this week when my buddy gets back from Cabo and brings the hoist over.

justboosted02 · Aug 19, 2008, 08:08 AM

when you take out the engine, do it with the transmission attached as one unit. I had good luck with this method. all you need is an engine load leveler

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...load%20leveler

hokiruu · Aug 19, 2008, 08:17 AM

Cool stuff Jerred (did I spell your name right?). Can't wait until I have a shop with a TIG or even just MIG.

jid2 · Aug 19, 2008, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justboosted02

when you take out the engine, do it with the transmission attached as one unit. I had good luck with this method. all you need is an engine load leveler

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...load%20leveler

Yeah I'm not unbolting the transmission, it's coming with the engine.

jid2 · Aug 30, 2008, 11:02 PM

Whamo!

Turns out the engine just barely slips out from the top with the transmission still installed. I had to work to get it totally released from the TC and really angle it out to get it to clear. I had to remove the brackets for the AC pump from the block and some shift linkages from the transmission that were hitting things and holding up the show. I think I also successfully caught nearly every possible snag as I lifted the engine. First the shift lines, lower the engine , untangle... back up with the engine, snag the power steering lines, back down, adjust, back up. Crap like that. What sucked was that I had moved all that stuff into areas where they wouldn't snag, but all the jockeying to get the thing out grab things with ninja stealth.

Finally got it out.

Then came pulling the tranny. I had the engine hanging on the hoist while I crawled directly under it to fish a screw driver into the transmission and release the bearing clip. That was super scary. I kept seeing the engine falling off the hoist and literally smashing me into a bloody pulp. But I got it unhooked and yanked the tranny. But I'd release the clip with the motor in the car next time.

No motor.

Got the motor mounted to the stand and ready to start taking it apart.

TurboRSX04 · Aug 31, 2008, 02:01 AM

nice can't wait for more build pics!!

RAbishi · Aug 31, 2008, 08:58 AM

Nice build you have going.

jid2 · Aug 31, 2008, 09:58 PM

Pulled some stuff off the motor today for a few hours. The whole thing is so dirty and caked with oil. Stupid leaky head gasket. It didn't help that I sprung a fuel leak from my injector swap and sprayed the engine compartment with fuel as well. So there is dirt stuck to everything. You can really see how nasty the block is covered in grime.

I like to keep the seperate parts in zip lock bags with their respective hardware, makes things easier going back together.

jid2 · Sep 2, 2008, 08:35 AM

I'm now at two tools I've had to build. Yesterday I welded up a little something-something to get my new #1 SOB bolt loose. Previously the cam gears bolts were first on the list for PIA. Anyone who has done cams knows how tight those cam gear bolts are. I had to go buy a serious impact gun with a special socket to break them loose on my first cam install. Here's the one I have 600 ft-lbs

Well the impact gun had nothing on the crank bolt.

I'm not sure if NASCAR power would have broken it loose.

I had to build a 4 ft bar that I could bolt to the crank, since the engine was already on the stand with no flywheel. Then on the crank bolt I used a breaker bar with a 3 ft pipe extension. That finally broke it loose. I have pictures of that I'll load later.

sabastian458 · Sep 2, 2008, 08:48 AM

Yeah, I have learned that they are serious bolts.

My solution was to leave the damn thing in and buy a new bolt and sprokets

jid2 · Sep 2, 2008, 08:57 AM

A high torque impact gun with a stubby 17mm impact socket with built in universal will break the cam gear bolts loose. But it took me trying a bunch of stuff to figure that out. I've used that setup on a bunch of different cam installs, always have got them loose.

The crank bolt though - that thing is solid. I banged at it with the impact gun, even after I built the 4 foot bar screwed into the crank. It didn't budge. I had my Dad at the end of the 4 foot bar, and me basically jumping to load the 3 foot pipe I had on the crank bolt.

I wonder what others have done for this SOB of a bolt.

**MR Turco** · Sep 2, 2008, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jid2@[BINARY]

A high torque impact gun with a stubby 17mm impact socket with built in universal will break the cam gear bolts loose. But it took me trying a bunch of stuff to figure that out. I've used that setup on a bunch of different cam installs, always have got them loose.

The crank bolt though - that thing is solid. I banged at it with the impact gun, even after I built the 4 foot bar screwed into the crank. It didn't budge. I had my Dad at the end of the 4 foot bar, and me basically jumping to load the 3 foot pipe I had on the crank bolt.

I wonder what others have done for this SOB of a bolt.

My crappy craftsman gun took off the crank bolt, i had to turn the compressor up as high as the regulator would let me but it came off.

Good luck with the build, 100k on the stock clutch, amazing!

jid2 · Sep 2, 2008, 10:11 AM

I should take some pictures of the clutch, it looks like it could do 100K more. The friction material is in excellent shape. I don't drag race or launch my car, but have done lots of road race type events.

sabastian458 · Sep 2, 2008, 10:39 AM

yeah i got my cam bolts off fine, that crank bolt tho was a diff story.

I am very interested in your thread, as I have the same setup as what you are building

jid2 · Sep 2, 2008, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sabastian458

yeah i got my cam bolts off fine, that crank bolt tho was a diff story.

I am very interested in your thread, as I have the same setup as what you are building

Are you running the stock ECU? How are you liking things so far?