evolutionm.net - Home of the Lancer Evolution
Home Features Community Marketplace Registry Garage

Go Back   evolutionm.net > Lancer Evolution 1-9 Forums > Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
New! Use your Facebook, Google, AIM & Yahoo accounts to securely log into this site, click logo to login  

Welcome to EvolutionM.net!
Welcome to EvolutionM.net.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old Aug 29, 2006, 01:42 PM   #31
Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: (6)
 
purecoda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Columbia, MD
Posts: 2,680

Drives: 2005 Jeep Wrangler

Send a message via AIM to purecoda
that has got to be one of the best step by step write-ups i've seen. i cast another vote for to sticky this thread.

i do have one small observation though - the heat shield. did you have any desire to paint it knowing it's going to rust like crazy?
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 29, 2006, 01:47 PM   #32
Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: (6)
 
TeStUdO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Secret Tweaker Pad
Posts: 1,797

Drives: '03 Evo 8

Send a message via AIM to TeStUdO
Awesome, awesome build. I would love to have been in the garage with you while you were building it just to learn a ton. When Benson built my Honda block and it came back to me it was a work of art. I regreted selling it. To watch it have been built would have made parting with it a little easier.
__________________
Evo Green/BR Stage 4+/Comp Cams 280/Exedy Twin Disk/ECUFlash


DCEVOCLUB.COM
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 29, 2006, 02:04 PM   #33
Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: (7)
 
willum14pb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 129

Send a message via AIM to willum14pb
Wow, thats specific... great write up and sweet ride man
__________________
'05 WW Evo 8
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 29, 2006, 02:09 PM   #34
Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
 
sparky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Mesoamerica
Posts: 3,468

Drives: 2004 RS

What was your out of pocket expense on this project, if I may ask? Did you save a bit of money by sourcing it all yourself as opposed to buying a kit?
__________________
Vishnu XEDE & camgears-Greddy 720's-ported Green-HKS 280/272-Forge WGA-AMS LICP-DC DP-Magnaflow Ti-Ralliart TS-Tomei Thermokiller - SSAC O2 - BR8ES-Nissei IC--SS clutch line-Endless(f) /Hawk(r) - WALBRO 255-ITG filter-Motul-KOYO radiator-SAMCO intake hose-UEGO-Autometer-Kartboys-Authority SS-MR DV.

DLL: 389WHP/25PSI on 93( non-corrected@3300' altitude). (No dynos in the jungle! Fortunately, there are carnivorous toads that feed on bats).
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 29, 2006, 02:57 PM   #35
Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: (13)
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Frisco
Posts: 1,270

Drives: Wife Nutts

Well, the trick that I know of is to unscrew the vacuum fitting that is on the back of the manifold (the one that is used for brake boost) and then screw it into the block where the oil pressure sensor is located. You have to take the oil pressure sensor out before doing this of course. Anyway, you can then use a tube and one of the little hand pumps that screw on to the top of an oil bottle and start pumping. It is kind of difficult to get to the back of the block with the intake manifold on when the block is in the car, but it is possible. (done it) If you leave the valve cover off when doing this you can see the oil start to come out of the top of the lifters, and if you continue to pump you will lubricate the journals as well and you do not loose any oil as this is assuming that the turbo is on, oil cooler, filter, basically the whole engine is assembled in the engine bay. I actually put in two quarts this way and the rest through the valve cover. Anyway, when I started the engine for the first time the oil pressure light was not on for more the 1.5 seconds if that. Just remember to take the fitting out and clean it before putting it back on the backside of the manifold again and to put the pressure sensor back in. I really cannot take credit for this as John at RRE told me how to do this.
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 29, 2006, 03:00 PM   #36
Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: (5)
 
Wazvette's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: ATX
Posts: 339

Drives: Built GN, Built Supra

Maaan...I wish i had the guts
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 29, 2006, 03:13 PM   #37
Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: (70)
 
VTECH8TR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: La Isla Del Encanto
Posts: 2,074

Drives: Mucho cars

Send a message via Yahoo to VTECH8TR
Good write up man. It is now a sticky .
__________________
1 Turbo 2 Liters 3 Diamonds 4 Doors

In Memory of Michael B. Fleming 05/29/07


________________________________________
*** PLEASE READ! New Policy regarding Scammers ***
Please respect our forum rules here:
http://forums.evolutionm.net/evom-newbie-faqs-forum/announcements.html
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 29, 2006, 03:28 PM   #38
Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: (3)
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 253

I'd be interested in seeing the 2.4 build-up you did previously.
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 29, 2006, 09:09 PM   #39
Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
9GUY9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mankato, MN
Posts: 136

Drives: 96 Talon AWD 2.4L, 01 Lightning

unfortunatly I didn't take many pics of the 2.4l build. It would have been a even more interesting one, as I ported and built the head as well. Here are the few pics i did get. 2.4L pics

I'm glad you guys liked this so much it became a sticky. Thats quite a honor.
__________________
96 Talon TSI AWD, 2.4L far from stock
01 Ford SVT Lightning Bone Stock
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 29, 2006, 09:25 PM   #40
Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
9GUY9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mankato, MN
Posts: 136

Drives: 96 Talon AWD 2.4L, 01 Lightning

As far as the expense's I will list who I got what from and the price. Mods if this is not ok let me know, or remove them. I am listing these vendors because i had a very good experiences with all of them, and highly recomend them.

Wiseco pistons and Eagle rods from Chris at www.nolimitmotorsports.com $769 shipped, got them in less than a week.

ACL coated Bearings and ARP head studs from Chris at www.maperformance.com $186.35 shipped, with overnight shipping on the studs.

New Mitsu 2.4L crank and Evo gasket kit. from Nick at Brookdale Mitsu 763-566-5600 $821.40 shipped with the club DSM/EVO disscount.

I had the machine work done locally by the Auto Value machine shop, Tod really knows his stuff. Cost $175.

So ya to answer you question I think I saved some cas by piecing everything together myself. The total price of all parts shipped was $1776. That includes a new mitsu crank, new Mitsu gasket kit, and ARP head studs. That is about the same price most vendors sell just the rotating assembly for, and at that price probably included a re-man crank.
__________________
96 Talon TSI AWD, 2.4L far from stock
01 Ford SVT Lightning Bone Stock
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 29, 2006, 09:37 PM   #41
Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 326

Drives: 2004 EVO SSL

Did you clean the oil cooler, oil lines and turbo from metal shavings because of the spun bearing. My 2.3 built by RRE will be picked up very soon
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 29, 2006, 09:55 PM   #42
Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
9GUY9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mankato, MN
Posts: 136

Drives: 96 Talon AWD 2.4L, 01 Lightning

Quote:
Originally Posted by JMB8606
Did you clean the oil cooler, oil lines and turbo from metal shavings because of the spun bearing. My 2.3 built by RRE will be picked up very soon
Yes i did I ran parts washer fluid through then for about 3 hours each followed by water, followed by air, and repeated this a couple times.

I opened the oil filter that was on the car and there wasn't too much metal in it. Most of the bearing in the pan was too large to make it past the screen on the oil pick up.
__________________
96 Talon TSI AWD, 2.4L far from stock
01 Ford SVT Lightning Bone Stock
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 29, 2006, 10:15 PM   #43
Newbie
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Mankato, MN
Posts: 74

Nice writeup Lucas. I cant wait til that thing is ready to see full boost and get driven hard.
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 29, 2006, 10:22 PM   #44
Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
9GUY9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mankato, MN
Posts: 136

Drives: 96 Talon AWD 2.4L, 01 Lightning

Quote:
Originally Posted by tmodlin
Nice writeup Lucas. I cant wait til that thing is ready to see full boost and get driven hard.

Thanks, I wasn't sure if you were registered on here or not. Tim (tmodlin) is the man who notified me of the deal on the EVO, and has helped in all the work I've done on it Thanks
__________________
96 Talon TSI AWD, 2.4L far from stock
01 Ford SVT Lightning Bone Stock
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 3, 2006, 08:32 PM   #45
Newbie
Personal Sales Rating: (7)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: NH/MA
Posts: 75

great write up
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
23, 23l, 4g63, bearing, block, build, clearance, clearances, engine, evo, main, pistons, rebuild, slot, turbo

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:40 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.2.0