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My 10.5 Hotside Install & How-To

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Old May 1, 2006, 05:24 PM
  #226  
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when I got home tonight (with the car cold sitting parked all day long) I took off the heatshield and went over all the nuts with a torque wrench once again as a safety precaution....
Old May 2, 2006, 06:43 AM
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dAM!! NICE WRITE UP

take some more pics of that 02 housing that thing looks wicked small and restrictive from that pic.....looks like i need to get one huh?
Old May 6, 2006, 11:04 AM
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Mid install right now.. going on 6 hours because of broken downpipe bolts and 10.5 hotside studs... maybe to many miles on my car ... should have ordered bolts and gaskets as well... anyone know the side of the downpipe bolts and 10.5 hotside to exhaust mani studs (which i want to convert to bolts? I need to go to autozone and pic it up... also having hard time taking off exhaust mani...
Old May 13, 2006, 04:35 AM
  #229  
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holy old thread ressurection batman.

but i had to do it, this superhatch gave me the confidence to do this job, i started late last night, im not done yet, i just took everything out and will finish up today,

my insight:

you dont need to pull the 02 sensor or the lower heatshield, what i did (and i did pull my radiator) is that after getting the manifold off and all the lower heatshield bolts off, and the lower 02 housing to block bolt off, i just got underneath the car with some vice grips and bent the *** out of the lower heat shield and molded it so it would slide past the 02 sensor and ac compressor line without damaging anything. since everything is disconnected from below (o2 housing to block bolt) you can actually push on it a little bit as you are sliding the heat shield up. i did this because i have an aftermarket 02 and am not going to use the lower shield, then i removed the housing to turbo clamp took off the old hotside/housing and took the 02 sensor out after it was all out of the car, sprayed the *** out of it with PB and it opened up like a hooker with a breaker bar.

just my method hope it helps.

PS the manifold was the hardest part to get off, i tried removing the studs with vice-grips but i couldnt, i ended up cutting them off with dremel cutting disc.... even then it was a ***** to get out, but it was out! so far i am this far:


Old May 13, 2006, 07:44 AM
  #230  
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Using bolts in place of the studs on the hot side makes the "next time" (the one you say you will never do) easy as pie. Matter of fact, makes swapping out manifold a 15-20min ordeal...
Old May 13, 2006, 04:24 PM
  #231  
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yep thats exactly what i did.
Old May 14, 2006, 06:39 PM
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I finished up my 10.5 hotside, ported Buschur exhaust manifold, and Garaged Performance ported stock O2 housing swap this weekend. The port job on the stock O2 housing was so well done, I decided not to use my coated MR O2 housing that I originally planned to use. This way I can keep that stock looking engine bay apprearance after all. I also removed the radiator to allow more room to work. With the extra room, I was able to remove the O2 sensor easily with a 22mm open end wrench. Everything after that went pretty smooth. I was able to do everything in an afternoon and am happy with the way the car feels. My Xede S.M.A.R.T. seems to be adjusting pretty well to the recent mods. In fact my part throttle response feels pretty amazing as well as the top end. I would like to thank Superhatch for the great tips as well as some of the other Evom members who have shared some of their install ideas.
Old May 17, 2006, 01:38 AM
  #233  
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Does anyone know how tight to make the vband clamp on the exh.housing/center core?

Mike
Old May 19, 2006, 07:32 AM
  #234  
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Glad things are working out, can't wait to see her run! Good luck and thanks for the bump!
Old May 19, 2006, 09:38 AM
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Can someone please tell me how to remove the circular clamp that holds the hotside onto the rest of the turbo. I am in the middle of removal......thanks

Edit....Thanks guys, we finally got it off somehow.......

Last edited by sparky; May 19, 2006 at 10:21 AM.
Old May 19, 2006, 10:53 AM
  #236  
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There is a nut holding it on. Yours might be rotated underneath.

I lucked out and mine was right on the top.
Old May 19, 2006, 11:00 AM
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Thanks for the response. Now to get a sledgehammer and pound the hotside off.. JK



Originally Posted by laakness
There is a nut holding it on. Yours might be rotated underneath.

I lucked out and mine was right on the top.
Old May 19, 2006, 11:01 AM
  #238  
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Originally Posted by sparky
Thanks for the response. Now to get a sledgehammer and pound the hotside off.. JK
Heh, yeah. A tiny flat head screwdriver broke the seal for me.
Old May 19, 2006, 08:31 PM
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For some reason, in the process of removing the exhaust manifold, I took off a banjo bolt from a turbo oilfeed line(I think) and now that I have it back together I noticed that the banjo fitting only has a washer on one side of the fitting.

As a rule of thumb shouldnt a banjo fitting on the end of an oil line have 2 washers, or that is, a washer on either side of the banjo fitting: one between the bolt head and one flat of the fitting and another washer between the banjo fitting's other flat surface and the mounting surface of the cylinder head?

I dont wanna spew oil all over the place. I studied the blowup diagram in this thread, but I just wanted to make sure. Thanks...

Last edited by sparky; May 19, 2006 at 08:35 PM.
Old May 19, 2006, 09:48 PM
  #240  
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Originally Posted by sparky
For some reason, in the process of removing the exhaust manifold, I took off a banjo bolt from a turbo oilfeed line(I think) and now that I have it back together I noticed that the banjo fitting only has a washer on one side of the fitting.

As a rule of thumb shouldnt a banjo fitting on the end of an oil line have 2 washers, or that is, a washer on either side of the banjo fitting: one between the bolt head and one flat of the fitting and another washer between the banjo fitting's other flat surface and the mounting surface of the cylinder head?

I dont wanna spew oil all over the place. I studied the blowup diagram in this thread, but I just wanted to make sure. Thanks...
That would be correct in most Banjo connections to have two washers, I never took mine out so I can't tell you for sure. Maybe someone who has taken the turbo out can tell you. If anything it wouldn't hurt to add a second if the bolt is long enough to take it.


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