Deciding on Speaker setup and amps to power it. - Page 2

streetracerkam · Sep 13, 2009, 07:06 PM

The CDT's sound nice, but pricey. I think the JL's would do?
the amp is a e4300.

But, my headunits acting up and not turning off the amp. Junk..
so I had to boost my battery 3 times today because it kept dieing.

Are these any good? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I like the way they look, but im just wondering wether they will fit or not. Also, I dont need anythign thatll last a lifetime, just as long as its good for the next 6 or 7 months or so, as I will most likely end up selling my car then.

josel_atr · Sep 14, 2009, 09:11 AM

^it says they are one din. it be a direct replacement to our factory radio. but it looks like it will go over the hvac controls a little bit. not sure about the quality too. :S

streetracerkam · Sep 14, 2009, 01:37 PM

Yeah I noticed that, and I was asking about fitment due to the Hvac. I dont mind it covering them as long as it doesnt interfere with the nob.

FJF · Sep 15, 2009, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prodigalsunn

You need to add a capacitor to that list.

...no, it's useless regardless of the sales pitch.

Quote:

Also since you will be pulling door panels for your interior you may as well get dynamat and do it all right. Whats the point of spending all that loot on audio if you can't hear it in our (usually) loud as cars. At least do your front doors, floors, rear deck, and trunk.

Deadening materials are not effective at quieting down the environment. Deadening is meant to address panel resonance, not noise. There are other, more effective methods. I've written about this in the past; the OP may want to do a quick search, or better yet, look for audio info at a better venue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by josel_atr

from what i hear, dont bother changing the rear speakers. just dump your money into nice front speakers with tweets.

Agreed. Rear speakers add to the quantity of the sound, but subtract from its quality. If one isn't concerned with sound quality, add as many speakers as you want.

Quote:

Originally Posted by migs647

I don't know where you heard that. The rear speakers suck. Hardly any magnet to them, and as soon as you put amp power to them they will blow that paper cone right out. They are garbage.

<grin> Call me silly, but I tend to judge audio gear by listening to it. Yes, the stock speakers are not constructed robustly. So what? They're very sensitive, requiring much less power to reach a volume levels comparable to aftermarket offerings, and they're (relatively) fullrange and can deliver a very satisfying listening experience without the need for a sub. FWIW, I've driven the stock speakers with a variety of amplifiers, but as I said, they don't need much power to get going.

migs647 · Sep 15, 2009, 09:04 AM

+1 on capacitor being useless. They are definitely a sales pitch. You always do the big 3 before you do a capacitor. There are scientific experiments that a capacitor is just a band aid to the problem.

prodigalsunn · Sep 15, 2009, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by migs647

+1 on capacitor being useless. They are definitely a sales pitch. You always do the big 3 before you do a capacitor. There are scientific experiments that a capacitor is just a band aid to the problem.

now i know thanks, what would be more benificial then, better battery? alternater work?

migs647 · Sep 15, 2009, 09:18 AM

The Big Three upgrade is upgrading the main three electrical charging wires in a vehicle's electrical system. These wires are the power wire from the alternator to the battery positive, the engine block to a ground, and the battery negative to a ground. After that you upgrade the battery, then the alternator. The quick answer of why a capacitor won't fix your real problem, the capacitor can be drained instantly by many systems, thus pulling additional power from the battery and alternator (to refill the capacitor and to pull that extra amperage from the battery).

These guys are the experts for car audio: forum.realmofexcursion.com

And the lesson behind why you don't need a capacitor.

http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/el...capacitor.html

Hope you like reading

FJF · Sep 15, 2009, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prodigalsunn

now i know thanks, what would be more benificial then, better battery? alternater work?

Sensitive speakers. The more sensitive the speakers, the less amp required, the less electricity being used. This said, I run ~1400watts on the stock alternator/battery with almost no voltage drop. Everything is configured for 4 Ohms for low current demand.

igo4bmx · Sep 15, 2009, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FJF

Sensitive speakers. The more sensitive the speakers, the less amp required, the less electricity being used. This said, I run ~1400watts on the stock alternator/battery with almost no voltage drop. Everything is configured for 4 Ohms for low current demand.

You are seeing no voltage drop? how are you measuring? at idle?
watts are not important as amp raw is the measurement.
i see voltage drop at idle with 600 rms sub amp and 200 rms 4 channell biamplifying my front stage.
alternator is more beneficial than a battery.

speaker sensitivity is not something you want to focus on. for loud bass you're talking larger STIFFER (aka heavier) cone with xmax, and thats not efficient at all.

Lumpydonut · Sep 15, 2009, 07:43 PM

I spent about $700 on all my stuff off ebay
2 12s single boxes
2 12" Rockford P1s
Alpine 600W RMS amp (puts out about 1k easy)
4 alpine 6.5s, 80W rms each
and a pioneer UB5100 deck

cij911 · Sep 15, 2009, 10:08 PM

Check out eD...they have some nice and affordable stuff...

Taimur · Oct 5, 2009, 07:36 AM

I just added a Pioneer HU which puts out 22RMS x 4 with four Alpine type Rs 100RMS each. The issue is that the sound is not very loud and gets distorted at higher volumes. You can't hear clearly unless I turn the volume 60-70%.

Do you think I need an amp and that the HU isn't providing enough power?

migs647 · Oct 5, 2009, 08:54 AM

YES, 100%. The power from an amp is much cleaner too. A lot of people think it's about watts, it's not. It's about current.

How are you even running those subs?

Taimur · Oct 5, 2009, 12:35 PM

^^ Thanks. That's what I thought as well. I guess I'll have to get a 4 channel amp.
I'm not running a subwoofer, just 4 coaxial speakers.

migs647 · Oct 5, 2009, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Taimur

^^ Thanks. That's what I thought as well. I guess I'll have to get a 4 channel amp.
I'm not running a subwoofer, just 4 coaxial speakers.

Gotcha, I'm used to people calling the alpine subs "Rs". I was drunk too

Anyways, yah... get yourself a nice 4 channel (or better yet 6 channel) amp. If you are willing to pay for a good amp that will last you a really long time I recommend the G6600 JL Audio. That amp is MEAN.