Burning water. What to do?

[LCS]

Car's a Lancer Evo VII I've had for 3 months. Ran great till last week. So great that never checked some itens due to the low - and granted - mileage of just 26.000mi.

Last week the cyl 3 started to fail. Yesterday I took plugs off and the 3rd was completely covered of water. Compression was 130/130/30/30, so there a problem for sure. Engine was fully built with ARP bolts by the previous owner, so the shop might have done something wrong.

Took head cover off and found some little white spots here and there, like sand. In fact, looked like small water drips. You can see and clean them, but not fell by touch. No rust signs.

The "tuner" installed NGK BKR9EIX plugs, and that explain the completely fouled pistons tops. Funny this all happened just after I bought some BPR8ES.

I'd like to share what I want to do and hear some opinions:

1- Drain oil to check the extent of fluids mixing;
2- Pull head;
3- Pull rods/pistons to check bore clearance and match pistons to cyls;
4- Take rings out to check clearance. Match rings to best cyl for each one;
5- Check rod bearing for damage and clearances and replace if needed;
6- Take main cap out to check for bearing damages, and replace as needed;
7- Replace rod and main bolts by ARP studs/bolts;
8- Replace head ARP bolts for standard ARP studs;
9- Replace every gasket and seal;

Great chances I'll send the head for a complete tear down. Just basic stuff: gasket matching, polishing, new bronze valve guides, new valve seals and throw in GSC S1 cams.

Is there something else I need to check? As I told, I've had the car for just 3 months so I'm new to 4G63s.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[VTEC Killer]

sounds like a headgasket problem. could have failed to re-torque the head studs after the motor was heat cycled and it lifted on those two cylinders, thats a small chance, but still a chance. The only way your getting water (coolant) into a cylinder is from a bad headgasket or a damaged coolant passage in the head or block. Try and do a leakdown test and see if your getting air into the coolant system, just leave your radiator cap off and do the test if its a headgasket or damaged passage the coolant in the radiator will start bubbling like crazy.

[Bluefire]

I wouldn't really go through that much work. Just yank the head, make sure block and head arent warped, and install a new headgasket...

[Fullybuilt_06MR]

Originally Posted by LCS

Car's a Lancer Evo VII I've had for 3 months. Ran great till last week. So great that never checked some itens due to the low - and granted - mileage of just 26.000mi.

Last week the cyl 3 started to fail. Yesterday I took plugs off and the 3rd was completely covered of water. Compression was 130/130/30/30, so there a problem for sure. Engine was fully built with ARP bolts by the previous owner, so the shop might have done something wrong.

Took head cover off and found some little white spots here and there, like sand. In fact, looked like small water drips. You can see and clean them, but not fell by touch. No rust signs.

The "tuner" installed NGK BKR9EIX plugs, and that explain the completely fouled pistons tops. Funny this all happened just after I bought some BPR8ES.

I'd like to share what I want to do and hear some opinions:

1- Drain oil to check the extent of fluids mixing;
2- Pull head;
3- Pull rods/pistons to check bore clearance and match pistons to cyls;
4- Take rings out to check clearance. Match rings to best cyl for each one;
5- Check rod bearing for damage and clearances and replace if needed;
6- Take main cap out to check for bearing damages, and replace as needed;
7- Replace rod and main bolts by ARP studs/bolts;
8- Replace head ARP bolts for standard ARP studs;
9- Replace every gasket and seal;

Great chances I'll send the head for a complete tear down. Just basic stuff: gasket matching, polishing, new bronze valve guides, new valve seals and throw in GSC S1 cams.

Is there something else I need to check? As I told, I've had the car for just 3 months so I'm new to 4G63s.

Thanks in advance for any help.

bro do a leak down test and see where its leaking from and then fix it, take it to a pro for sho

[kemoly]

re torque headgasket
if this doesnt work try a new headgasket
and if this doesnt work either take your head off and a close check!

i think a new rebuild engine should have 180 , 180 , 180 , 180 of compression, correct me guys if im wrong?

good luck

[LCS]

Already took the head off. All the cylinders are shiny, not a sign of the previous honing, wich is bad. The 3rd cyl - the one that was leaking - has a damage on the wall that I can feel just by touching. As the engine was already bored to 85,5mm, now I need to check if it's possible to bore up to 86mm.

Will post pic later.

[TTP Engineering]

No one should ever use 9EIX plugs. The car would be lucky to run 20 miles without misfiring with those.

[GST Motorsports]

Originally Posted by TTP Engineering

No one should ever use 9EIX plugs. The car would be lucky to run 20 miles without misfiring with those.

Been running sets of those fine for over 20,000 miles...

- Bryan

[TTP Engineering]

Back in 2006 when we were running 10's in our 2005 MR we tested all the plugs available at the time in about 3 heat ranges each, HKS Dli, MSD CDI, COP ignitions, Okada coils etc and the 9EIX was the worst plug out of all of them.

Any ethanol powered car running 9 series NGK plugs is pretty funny. The fuel is colder as it is and running a colder plug on a colder burning fuel is hampering performance and ignition. We have the track results and testing to actually back up our claims.

There would need to be a real good reason to ever think about going colder than an 8 series plug.

[GST Motorsports]

I ran E85 for over a year before you even found it better than Methanol you used to think was god, and before you tried to make believe your car was still running a stock motor.

I've personally run 9's for over 20,000 miles, just a tad bit more than the 20 miles you claim before fouling. Don't worry your secret is not safe with me.

- Bryan

[LCS]

Here´s the worst score I could find. There are some scratches in all the 4 cyls, just as if a grain or two of sand got stuck over a ring.

[TTP Engineering]

Originally Posted by GST Motorsports

I ran E85 for over a year before you even found it better than Methanol you used to think was god, and before you tried to make believe your car was still running a stock motor.

I've personally run 9's for over 20,000 miles, just a tad bit more than the 20 miles you claim before fouling. Don't worry your secret is not safe with me.

- Bryan

Ethanol is not better than methanol FYI. God is spelled with a capital G. FYI. One of my cars, the gray MR specifically has been on stock motor for the last two years.

NGK 9EIX are still the worst plug for the Evo in the end as they are too cold for the car.

[kemoly]

you can machine your block to 86mm , no problem at all.. but thats the las t super for you block!

[kemoly]

how about NGK 8´s copper head ???