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Your timing should slowly decrease from 100 load out to peak load.
You should be somewhere in the ball park of 2-5 degrees of timing at peak load (usually this is around the point of peak boost).
You should then taper the timing to increase from this point out to redline. Most VIII can go as high as 11-15 degrees of timing at redline.
As for boost, you should be able to hold about 27-28 psi boost at peak load and have it taper to about 24-25 by redline.
These are all assumptions that you have your injectors dialed in and fuel trims are good to go. If they are not, you must start here. The you must make sure your AFR is spot on before moving on to timing. A "rule of thumb" with pump gas is to shoot for mid 12s afr from 0 to about 10-15psi of boost, then taper to mid 11s and hold it until redline.
Honestly, search around and all your questions will be answered. Nothing beats reading.
Hope this helps.
Paul
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Green-Revolver Cams, Springs & Retainers-HKS Upper & Lower Pipes-Perrin intake-FMIC-Ported Exhaust Mani-Ported and Coated Hot Side-Ported and Coated Stainless O2 housing-Cobb Exhaust-HKS DLI II-Exedy HD Twin-AVC-R-OPP <-me TUNED on e85....and the list goes on
I can run 22-24psi but at redline im at 6-8 timing
If i turn the boost down to 18-20psi i can run 12-15 timing at redline
what one should make more power?
6-8* uptop is retarded.. humorous actually for a evo.
6-8* is what you should have at around 6k rpm not redline.
peak boost area on a fp black with a 2.0L is about 4400rpm @ 20psi~ (sooner depending on the a/f tune itself)
Not even mentioning what fuel you're using is stupid also, considering that is the most important aspect of the tune. The timing will all depend on the cam grind, how the motor is setup with base timing etc.. ive seen motors 180deg out and the timing maps looked all weird, but its what the motor wanted since the timing was out of phase on the actual motor itself.
So I recommend first confirming the motors all lined up properly and go from there. make sure when you have the crank pulley marked lined up to tdc and the cam gears lined up to the valve cover that the dowell pins are facing UP. ive seen where people had them facing down and it will make the timing map look screwy + will be 180* out.
93oct should allow for atleast 13-15* uptop
e85 about 18-19*
etc
unless you have a country backroad that is perfectly flat/smooth/ level dont attempt it on public roads with virtual dyno progs.
start all your pulls at 2500-2800rpm.. the start rpm is important to keep a consistent comparison between pull to pull. starting at lower rpm/load will always yield in more torque spike on the graph.
Your timing should slowly decrease from 100 load out to peak load.
You should be somewhere in the ball park of 2-5 degrees of timing at peak load (usually this is around the point of peak boost).
You should then taper the timing to increase from this point out to redline. Most VIII can go as high as 11-15 degrees of timing at redline.
As for boost, you should be able to hold about 27-28 psi boost at peak load and have it taper to about 24-25 by redline.
These are all assumptions that you have your injectors dialed in and fuel trims are good to go. If they are not, you must start here. The you must make sure your AFR is spot on before moving on to timing. A "rule of thumb" with pump gas is to shoot for mid 12s afr from 0 to about 10-15psi of boost, then taper to mid 11s and hold it until redline.
Honestly, search around and all your questions will be answered. Nothing beats reading.
Hope this helps.
Paul
thanks for the info,
idk if this could be an issue but i have a 2.5" to 3" mid pipe so i guess u can say i still have a 2.5" mid pipe u think that could be the issue
Ive actually payed for a tune, and had a huge block of 6* of timing from 4500 to redline... Altho, I think he was trying to cram boost at it, cause the car had more power from my road tune...
Drove home, and flashed my old rom back... What a Fkn WASTE!!!
I told him, I run 5* @ peak, how the hell did u end up w/ 6* up top? lol
That's exactly why when anyone asks me about tuning, I say read the ECUFlash forum and learn how to tune yourself. You will save tons of money and gain tons of knowledge. It's not rocket science and it's shocking how many tuners don't have a clue.
There are too many incompetent 'tuners' getting rich off of people because they don't know any better. But you know how this forum is outside of this subforum. Every tuner or shop has their fanboys with an IQ of that of a gnat and will always say 'bro, they're the best, bro...they know what they're doing.' Except they probably wouldn't even use 'they're' properly...I'm sure it would be there or their.
Edit: Nothing against you nonschlont. I know that you frequent here and know how to tune. Unfortunately, you had to deal with one of these 'tuners'.
Last edited by l2r99gst; Jul 28, 2010 at 04:03 PM.
very true. i know i dont regret learning myself. and theres always more to be had after you tweak a dyno tune on the road from my experience.. maybe not timing wise but sure as hell a/f wise at peak torque and etc. i opened another 80tq+ by richening my peak up. not sure how smart that is with my clutch but o well.
i cant believe anyone would think a 4g63 only wanted 6* at redline tho, that is just sad.
That's exactly why when anyone asks me about tuning, I say read the ECUFlash forum and learn how to tune yourself. You will save tons of money and gain tons of knowledge. It's not rocket science and it's shocking how many tuners don't have a clue.
There are too many incompetent 'tuners' getting rich off of people because they don't know any better. But you know how this forum is outside of this subforum. Every tuner or shop has their fanboys with an IQ of that of a gnat and will always say 'bro, they're the best, bro...they know what they're doing.' Except they probably wouldn't even use 'they're' properly...I'm sure it would be there or their.
Edit: Nothing against you nonschlont. I know that you frequent here and know how to tune. Unfortunately, you had to deal with one of these 'tuners'.
Edit: Nothing against you nonschlont. I know that you frequent here and know how to tune. Unfortunately, you had to deal with one of these 'tuners'.
this is why i tune myself, the old tune i had for a stock evo that was running 8's at peak in the 2000-6000 range and is a pretty known tuner and is not dynoflash and had 9.0-9.6 in the same area for fuel
my road tune was almost dead on with my dyno tweaking done by kreionic which is an extremely good tuner.. it pays to learn yourself, because you go in with a great tune already and then they have something good to work off of. I didnt do it on the dyno for the reason I didnt feel like learning how to use the dyno and all that other bs.
9's being at peak area is fine, its how you get a torque spike... from nj? if the car wants 8* at peak theres no problem running 8's up until 6k..... it all depends on what the car wants.. there is no standard for any car. hell some evo stock cams are different then others which change the timing and etc.
this was on a 100% stock car. now i run 10.5 at peak for me which is 11.5 afr so i could only imagine how rich it would be on the wideband since it was at 8.9-9.0 up to 5000. when i was finally able to log the car the car was hitting 10+ counts of knock on his shoddy tune
Except they probably wouldn't even use 'they're' properly...I'm sure it would be there or their. 
