Knock is back...WTF?

3gEclipseTurbo · Oct 27, 2009, 03:07 PM

I just put on a catback now im back to getting knock in the same cells as i was before, than i set the knock mutiplier tables higher and was knock free. I set the tables higher because i was almost positive that the "knock" wasnt real that i have bad lifter tick which caused the ecu to read as knock. So does this confirm that the knock isnt real? Sense the catback is louder and vibrates? I was going to set the tables higher in the low and mid rpm but dont wanna hurt the motor.

rolly1818 · Oct 27, 2009, 03:23 PM

i dont know about ur old problem. where was your knock previously?

i have a TBE and my car vibrates like hell

but i have no spontaneous/phantom knock. is ur knock sensor loose?

BoostWhore · Oct 27, 2009, 03:25 PM

Make sure its not rattling against the body

fostytou · Oct 27, 2009, 05:29 PM

The only way to tell is with Det cans or some other confirmation that it is real knock. Check for rubbing/hitting on the body/engine.

You should do that before changing any of the multiplier settings in the first place because it is not at all unlikely that it is real knock.

3gturbo · Oct 27, 2009, 07:16 PM

add race gas if its real knock it will go away

**MR Turco** · Oct 27, 2009, 07:34 PM

multiplier is the last thing that should be changed. Unless you are absolutely sure it is false knock i would change the knock values. You are essentially removing your safety net.

Let me know if you need a hand tuning/logging. I am also in MA.

3gEclipseTurbo · Oct 27, 2009, 09:49 PM

the first time i tryed lowering the timing and adding gas but it did do anything. I did the same thing this time with no luck. The cat back vibrates alot added to that i have prothane motor mounts and my car vibrates like i have a big block in it, then to top it off i have very bad lifter tick.

3gEclipseTurbo · Oct 27, 2009, 11:29 PM

No matter what the timing or arf are im getting 36knock in 60-80loads 2500-3000rpm which is where the lifter tick is the worst. The car will studer, but if i set the mutiplier high the car drives fine no studer in those areas because the cars not pulling timing.

3gturbo · Oct 28, 2009, 05:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3gEclipseTurbo

No matter what the timing or arf are im getting 36knock in 60-80loads 2500-3000rpm which is where the lifter tick is the worst. The car will studer, but if i set the mutiplier high the car drives fine no studer in those areas because the cars not pulling timing.

For the second time add a gallon race gas to the tank and see if it goes away. Your motor is higher compression than an evo. I'm betting it's real knock.

3gEclipseTurbo · Oct 28, 2009, 12:04 PM

i had the afr down below 10 and it still was saying 36 knock with timing from 10-24adv it doesnt go away, or change its always 36 count

knochgoon24 · Oct 29, 2009, 07:09 PM

I know us guys running the Evo Ecu in our 2g DSMs had to adjust the low multiplier. There was no way around it.

Stock 2g DSM fuel and ignition maps - didn't help
93 or better gas - didn't help
fixing exhaust leaks and lifter tick - didn't help
swaping to an evo 8 knock sensor - didn't help

After that, we (about 4 or 5 of us) felt pretty confident that it was just phantom knock. I think my low multiplier is now at about 24. And yes, real knock still sets it off. I had quite the light show while messing with the MAF tables one day.

I don't know how cooperative you 3g guys are. There's just a handful of us on DSMTuners messing with the 2g. We share pretty much every test and result. Different maps, different roms, different mods to roms, etc.