Jack_of_Trades

iTrader: (17)

The fix was to use any of the available ROM I.D.'s that begin with 9653**** (i.e. 96530006 or 96530706). They don't have some of the sensor checks that others have.

enash99

Which one seems to be the better ROM? I have 0006 and I am fighting very crazy issues right now with HOT starts, Phantom knock, etc.. I had a brand new 2G knock sensor and was told by several people that there isnt a big enough difference between the VIII and the 2G KS. So i used the NIB 2g sensor and I start to get knock from 3LBS of boost on up, I even pulled a **** ton of timing out of my map. Would anyone be willing to send me a working map that I can compare mine to? If you want to email it to me pls send it to enash_99@yahoodotcom

Here is the link to my thread in ECUflash I also post a snip of my log.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...v-20-24-a.html

Dynotech Tuning

iTrader: (12)

Personally, don't F*** with knock sensors. Not worth the risk. If there is a different part #, there is a reason. I got one BNIB as well and I recommend anyone else does too. Any rom that starts with 9653 is a good rom choice.

For anyone concerned about the cam angle signal being different on a 2G (as mentioned previously in this thread), I know the DSM guys used to add a cam sensor that worked off of the crank pulley when they would use AEM so something like that is always an option.

-Jamie (jack_if_trades)

mitsumodder

First, I have just discovered all this unbelieveable info. I have been WAY out of the loop I guess since we had my daughter. Now that my stock ECU is failing my research has begun to turn up this post.

Is there a parts list anywhere? I have read quite a few pages of this post and feel like I have a pretty good idea how to tackle this but an actual parts list whould help me see where I'm going.

I'm guessing I need a bad 1G ECU for the harness recipticles and EVO8 harness ends to plug into the EVO ECU. The EVO ECU its self, a knock sensor. What else is there? Do I need an OBD2 pigtail to wire in?

907dsm

Evo8/9 maf, tuning cable... seems like you have the complete list but I'm sure were probably both missing something.

Alex

mitsumodder

Can I just run my 3.5" GM MAF with my 1G MAFT? Or do I need the EVO MAFT?

And what about the OBD2 port? My car is a 1992 with pre-OBD.

enash99

Here is what you need, I currently have my 92 running on a 2003 EVO 8 ECU and tunning it with ECUFlash, First you do need an old 1G ecu to use the plugs from it. Second, go to a junk yard and get any mitsu 4 plug harness, The car I used was a Galant. I cut the OBDII plug and there is a white plug that is the flashing connector. I will take pics soon as I get my car back, I am having my water pump replaced and some welding done on a few things.

Basically you cut the metal connectors that the 1G plugs are soldered to the circut board with, That is the end that connects into your 1G wireing harness. Then the 4 Plug harness you cut out of any mid 90's to 2000 mitsu, like a 98 Eclipse galant etc.. is the end that plugs into the evo ECU. Now cut the wireing harness so that you leave about 6 inchs of wire so that you have long enough pig tales to solder to the 1G plugs, then the OBDII and the white flashing plug simply connect to the 4 plug haness by only a few wires. the white flashing connector has only 1 wire and the obdII has only a couple. I used the pin out diagram from AEM. I took the 1G and the EVO 8, and I just connect the right pin to the pin on the 1G and there ya go.. Then you need to buy a Tactrix USB to OBDII cable. You want to buy the 1.3U version. The U is important because that is the version that will come with a white flashing plug. You will also need EVOScan to data log with. There is a package you can buy which I did that includes the Cable and Evoscan.

http://tunertools.com/proddetail.asp...C-OpenPort1.3U

From the first crank my car idled smother than it ever has on the 1G ecu.

mitsumodder

Thanks. I am clear on everything except what this flashing plug looks like. Now, I feel like I need to go back to college to fully comprehend the actual tuning. I'll have to watch the youtube vids. again and take notes while my 2 year old is sleeping, lol.

enash99

Here are a few images of the plugs that I used.

Dynotech Tuning

iTrader: (12)

Dont forget to upgrade the Knock sensor to an evo8 Knock sensor as well. They are only like $70-80 new from the dealer. Yes, the sensors are different and have a different resonant frequency which works best with the knock filters already in the stock Evo ECU.

We just swapped over our shop 1G to an Evo ECU setup as well, on Speed Density. It just needs some tuning and we'll be ready to make some decent power with the PTE6262, built longblock and E98 fuel
-Jamie
(aka jack_of_trades)

enash99

The evo knock sensor is a MUST I tried both a 1g and 2g and both donot work with the evo filters, u will have phantom knock from 3lbs of boost upward, so before u even start on the oject get the knock sensor.

enash99

Quick question for anyone with working A/C. I see in the 1G ecu we have one pin for the A/C relay. I see in the evo there is several labeled A/C but I do not reconize which one actually is the one that trips the relay for the clutch on the A/C. It has gotten a little bit warm out now and Driving this thing would be more enjoyable if there was A/C. heheh

old4g63

iTrader: (3)

Would you mind posting your 96530006 defs for the ic sprayer. I want to use it to run nitrous and am unsure about mine.

enash99

I have been having some problems with knock. I can not seem to chase down the source of my problems. I have excellent compression on a motor with 6k miles. I am not ruling out the possibility that the motor could actually be knocking but i really do not think so. I have a new head also which runs very smooth and quiet. So I have an evo 8 knock sensor and still as i accelerate i begin to get slow knock at 6 lbs at fast knock by 10 lbs, So i have gone back to an almost stock motor. I have stock internals, I switched to a 14b, with 450 inj, the only non stock parts is my FMIC, Translator, N/A throttle body, 255 wally FP, I really do not have to much on there right now till I get this issue worked out. Can anyone give me some ideas that I may have not tried yet to tune out this knock issue. Also I can not hear any knock at all and I run 93 OCT. Just to give you an idea to what I have been trying, I have been ofcourse playing with timing, I have even changed motor mounts. I have researched into knock filters in the EVO 8, I have even gotten lost in the 12 different tables used for knock, lol. So I am at a loss. I do not have the tools to listen to the engine and see if when the ecu is calling out for knock there is actual knock. I am thinking that is the best thing to do. Could anyone post their timing maps so i can look at mine and see if mine is to far advanced. I dont think so but the ideas from the community can really help..

excellent info into knock,
http://www.vehicular.isy.liu.se/Publ...LIC_962_IA.pdf
http://www.vehicular.isy.liu.se/Publ...PhD_580_LE.pdf

Dynotech Tuning

iTrader: (12)

The factory knock multiplier setting in the "LOW" rpm range are known for being very sensitive to aftermarket clutches that change the harmonic transfer between the drivetrain and the engine. Upping this value from 13 to 14 or possibly 15 at times should be enough to eliminate the spoolup knock. This is always preferred to be confirmed that it is indeed false knock with Det Cans when possible. Also, be sure there aren't any drastic timing jumps in the problem area. Try to keep the timing variances from neighboring cells to 3* or less when feasible.


-Jamie
(aka jack_of_trades)