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Old Jan 24, 2009, 11:18 PM
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ECUFlash RVR X3 4G63T issues...

Hey all,

Not 100% if this is in the right place, but seeing as I drive the taller brother of the Evo, the RVR X3, I thought I'd try my luck

I have tried a number of different ECUFlash versions, but none seem to be able to read my ECU. They all return me the result of "no response to requests" after trying 4 different hex init strings.

I have used ECU Unlocker, and the newer versions just go into an endless loop. I have just downloaded the cable hack tool for ECUFlash 1.38, but have yet to try it.

Are these ECUs even readable? Mine desperately needs a tune as it is running rich, and fuel-cuts under 17psi on a cold day with a TD05-16G, FMIC and pod (unsheilded, soaking up that lovely hot air).

My other issue comes about from my Greddy Type RS BOV, which I have plumbed back into the intake system (as it was stalling when atmo'd, no matter how tight it was). It always sounds like it's causing compressor surge. When I first purchased it (3mths ago), it was great. I unwound it past the manufacturer's preset accidentally (the thread was crushed thanks to a friend of mine tightening it with pliers rather than an allen-key.), and since then it's been throwing a fit. I pulled it right apart, set it all back up how it was when I got it, even added more oil and thread-tape to make sure it was sealing but it's still not blowing off correctly.

ECU is main issue here though. Some help or pointing me in the right direction would be great

****UPDATED: Have sucessfully saved a .hex version of my ECU's firmware using ECUFlash 1.38 and the cable-hack. Not matched against any definitions though, so I'll have to have a play and see what I come up with. Further thoughts and help most appreciated ****

Last edited by SquattingDog; Jan 25, 2009 at 12:01 AM. Reason: UPDATED INFO
Old Jan 25, 2009, 07:25 AM
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Maybe you could have a chat with Hamish over at the EvoScan site. He's in NZ anyways and he may have a way to talk to it and also maybe have defs for this.

Milburn
Old Jan 25, 2009, 12:24 PM
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For the valve remove one of the inner springs, just leave the one spring in that is a higher spring rate. It'll still hold high pressure (I tested my old one to 28+ psi and it held fine) and then you can adjust via the screw to get the best combination for idle/cruise/shifting.
Old Jan 26, 2009, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Slo_crx1
For the valve remove one of the inner springs, just leave the one spring in that is a higher spring rate. It'll still hold high pressure (I tested my old one to 28+ psi and it held fine) and then you can adjust via the screw to get the best combination for idle/cruise/shifting.
Excellent, thank you for this, I will pull it apart again and give it a go! I'm still getting stalling/near stalling at present with current settings ><
Old Jan 26, 2009, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by WRC-LVR
Maybe you could have a chat with Hamish over at the EvoScan site. He's in NZ anyways and he may have a way to talk to it and also maybe have defs for this.
Yup, fair call. I got my EVOScan cable and software off him. He seems quite busy at present, but I'll hit him up.
Old Jan 26, 2009, 07:03 PM
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Post up if you get it read and flashed. Might be of use to others.

Any pics of the tall cousin ? Is this like the Outlander we have here in USA ? IIRC , there have been some people that have swapped in the 4g63 from EVo's to the Outlander.

Milburn
Old Jan 27, 2009, 12:58 AM
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Was wondering what year your RVR is?
I have done some bin file hacking on the '96 SSG RVR.
This is a EPROM (non-flashy) setup, but EvoScan will read it.
If you think it may be of some use, trot-on over to the EvoCrew site and check out RVR Resource folder. Fuel & ignition Maps, fuel cut plus a bunch of other parameters worked out.
Old Jan 29, 2009, 09:48 PM
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Cheers mate, I will have a look on EvoCrew - never checked that folder lol. Been a member for a bit. Not sure ECU is the same, as the engine is not (you run EVOIII - , I run EVOIV +)

I'll get some pictures up soon. This is quite different to an Outlander.
Old Jan 30, 2009, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Slo_crx1
For the valve remove one of the inner springs, just leave the one spring in that is a higher spring rate. It'll still hold high pressure (I tested my old one to 28+ psi and it held fine) and then you can adjust via the screw to get the best combination for idle/cruise/shifting.
Yup, tried this after you posted it. Valve stays open at all times with only one spring in it? (yes, the one with the higher spring rate).

Although shifts go pssshh until I hit 6500-7000rpm then they go psshpshhsphhspssh (eg sounds like backpressure on turbo)

Oh, and the car stalled like a *****, even recirc with only one spring.

Do I have a dead valve, or am I just being a n00b?
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