HOW TO - Control boost using ECUFLash and the stock boost solenoid
Oct 3, 2006, 09:56 PM
#17
Originally Posted by heyzeus11
do you have both pills still in? if so that is prob. why; but im pretty sure you cant get much more then 20psi with the restrictor pills in. and your boost is holding with error correction at 0 b/c the ecu is no longer able to adjust(lower with stock settings) your boost with the boost load target settings, since it uses the error correction values to adjust the wg duty.
Oct 3, 2006, 10:19 PM
#20
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I have removed my pill after the t near the solonoid (have not performed this mod yet) and so far have only been able to tune to a flat 20 psi from 3200 to 6000. I will try this later this week
Oct 3, 2006, 10:34 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by andenbre
I have removed my pill after the t near the solonoid (have not performed this mod yet) and so far have only been able to tune to a flat 20 psi from 3200 to 6000. I will try this later this week
I am trying that now with some success. I don't think a flat 20 psi can be done with the consistancy you want for driving.
I want to put a restrictor back in (I lost the original) because as Evo_Kid pointed out, you need some restriction on the solenoid side to maintain boost levels with any real consistancy.
What I like about this write up is that you can prepare several different boost lines for different boost levels with a nice stealthy pop your hood kinda way.
[edit] all measurements done with manual boost gauge..
Last edited by chrisw; Oct 4, 2006 at 08:27 AM.
Oct 4, 2006, 07:45 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by Evo_Kid
1) Yes
2) Yes
There is two restrictors, one by the turbo, one by the solenoid. I chose to replase the line, instead of taking out the factory pill and replacing with the modified pill. this way, you can go back to stock somewhat quickly.
I left the pill by the solenoid in because it smoothes the air entering the solenoid. WIthout it, its harder to control spikes.
2) Yes
There is two restrictors, one by the turbo, one by the solenoid. I chose to replase the line, instead of taking out the factory pill and replacing with the modified pill. this way, you can go back to stock somewhat quickly.
I left the pill by the solenoid in because it smoothes the air entering the solenoid. WIthout it, its harder to control spikes.
Now that I have my kock issues sorted out I think I will do this mod right after my cams.
Oct 4, 2006, 07:47 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by Evo_Kid
FYI, to anyone saying my boost is this or tapers to this, are you loggin with a MAP sensor??
If not, your boost claim may be inaccurate.
If not, your boost claim may be inaccurate.
20psi on my 3bar is 23-24 on the defi.
Oct 4, 2006, 10:28 AM
#25
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Since you've mentioned the MAP sensor, I have a Zeitronix MAP sensor, and was getting 17.5 psi with a Manual boost controller, then it fell on it's face and tripped a P0234 code. Will adjusting the Boost Limit as you've discribed help to control this?
Oct 6, 2006, 06:23 PM
#26
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Evokid are you logging MAP with PSIg (gauge pressure) or PSIa (absolute)?
I think most people use gauge pressure as the standard and these readings can vary hugely depending on atmospheric conditions; that's why some say "with this mod I'm running 21psi" and some other guy with the same mod will only get 20 psi. Gause pressure measures only the pressure over what the barometric pressure for that particular area, that day, at that time, at that elevation...etc.
Absolute pressure measures the manifold pressure against absolute zero or vacummn. So there is no atmospheric interference. So where PSIg will read 22 psi, PSIa will read say 35 psi. But that 35 is the same no matter where you're at, whereas gauge pressure readings will change if you go up or down in elevation, or the barometric pressure outside changes, etc.
I think most people use gauge pressure as the standard and these readings can vary hugely depending on atmospheric conditions; that's why some say "with this mod I'm running 21psi" and some other guy with the same mod will only get 20 psi. Gause pressure measures only the pressure over what the barometric pressure for that particular area, that day, at that time, at that elevation...etc.
Absolute pressure measures the manifold pressure against absolute zero or vacummn. So there is no atmospheric interference. So where PSIg will read 22 psi, PSIa will read say 35 psi. But that 35 is the same no matter where you're at, whereas gauge pressure readings will change if you go up or down in elevation, or the barometric pressure outside changes, etc.
Oct 6, 2006, 07:15 PM
#27
I use a MAP sensor from Zeitronix with my ZT2. Its the same sensor the AEM uses.
The reason you have said, is the same reason I didnt say that a certain WG duty would produce a certain boost amount. All cars are different, not to mention weather, elevation, etc.
The reason you have said, is the same reason I didnt say that a certain WG duty would produce a certain boost amount. All cars are different, not to mention weather, elevation, etc.
Oct 7, 2006, 02:10 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by Evo_Kid
You can get rid of most of the taper, just like a MBC. Run wastegate duty like so (exapmle)
ROM - WG duty
3000 - 50
3500 - 50
4000 - 50
4500 - 50
5000 - 55
5500 - 55
6000 - 60
6500 - 60
7000 - 65
ROM - WG duty
3000 - 50
3500 - 50
4000 - 50
4500 - 50
5000 - 55
5500 - 55
6000 - 60
6500 - 60
7000 - 65
Can you please explain what the WG Duty does? My table currently shows: 127.5 from 500 to 7000 rpm? And my boost limit is 319 from 3000 to 7000 rpm. I currently hit ~ 22 psi in 3rd, closer to 23/24 in higher gears. My taper in 3rd gear goes to like 17 / 18 by redline. Thanks
Oct 7, 2006, 02:37 PM
#30
^^
Wastegate duty is how much the solenoid bleeds, to put it simply. The more it bleeds, the higher the boost goes. Higher number = more air bled = more boost.
Your numbers are all maxed out because thats the way most tuners do it (to get the most boost out the stock system).
Boost limit doesnt need to be that high, with it that high, you basically have no boost cut.
Wastegate duty is how much the solenoid bleeds, to put it simply. The more it bleeds, the higher the boost goes. Higher number = more air bled = more boost.
Your numbers are all maxed out because thats the way most tuners do it (to get the most boost out the stock system).
Boost limit doesnt need to be that high, with it that high, you basically have no boost cut.