HOW TO - Control boost using ECUFLash and the stock boost solenoid

[turbolarry]

I tried the recent procedures on setting boost with the BEC zeroed out and BDEL adjusted for load. I was getting lower boost too so I went back to 159.4 all the way down in BDEL (all of them). That's how it used to be and it got me 4-5 psi back. I adjusted duty cycle for 20 psi and now I'm working on the BEC table.

[Evo_Kid]

Originally Posted by Z_Lancer_Man

Following this thread's pill replacement procedure, I am only hitting ~15 PSI peak. I installed a #58 pill in the line between the turbo and Tee and removed the pill at the solenoid since I'm implementing the new ECU direct boost control ECUFlash mods. I have zeroed out my BEC table just to see what the car did - would this be the cause of the low boost? If I start adding values into the BEC table, should I expect the car to actually hit my target boost or do I also need to add more aggressive MWGDC values? Here is what I currently have programmed:

First, If your running the stock solenoid, you need both pills, a modified one near the turbo and the stock one near the solenoid (even if you are gonna use the direct boost control mod). Also, if your only hitting 15lbs and cant go higher, check your connections, you may have a leak. If you need additional help, Pm me.

[Evo_Kid]

Originally Posted by turbolarry

I tried the recent procedures on setting boost with the BEC zeroed out and BDEL adjusted for load. I was getting lower boost too so I went back to 159.4 all the way down in BDEL (all of them). That's how it used to be and it got me 4-5 psi back. I adjusted duty cycle for 20 psi and now I'm working on the BEC table.

Having 159.4 all the way down in the BDEL tables is the WRONG way to run/tune ECU boost control.

[mrfred]

Originally Posted by Z_Lancer_Man

...

What value do you have in the Boost Adder setting?

[Z_Lancer_Man]

Originally Posted by Evo_Kid

First, If your running the stock solenoid, you need both pills, a modified one near the turbo and the stock one near the solenoid (even if you are gonna use the direct boost control mod). Also, if your only hitting 15lbs and cant go higher, check your connections, you may have a leak. If you need additional help, Pm me.

I thought, based on all the reading I've done, that the stock restrictor by the solenoid was to merely help stabilize the boost and reduce spikes - both things which could be corrected by fine tuning the ECU. Am I understanding this wrong?

Originally Posted by mrfred

What value do you have in the Boost Adder setting?

I have 13.3 in there as I work at 2500 feet and live at 3000 feet.

[GST Motorsports]

Boost adder won't matter if you have error correction zeroed out.

What happens if you add duty cycle? Does the boost go up? If not you put the pill in the wrong line. It should go in the line off the black compressor housing outlet pipe.

[Z_Lancer_Man]

Originally Posted by GST Motorsports

Boost adder won't matter if you have error correction zeroed out.

What happens if you add duty cycle? Does the boost go up? If not you put the pill in the wrong line. It should go in the line off the black compressor housing outlet pipe.

I'll try adding duty cycle - that was a thought of mine that perhaps I was just being too conservative. However, I am still surprised by how far off it is from my target boost levels. I know that without any pills, you will only get between 12 - 14 PSI, so I don't know if me only seeing peaks around 15 PSI is a coincidence or if there is more there. I'll post up a log I took yesterday. I do know for a fact that I placed the pill in the right line, between the compressor outlet and the tee.

[GST Motorsports]

If the pill is in the right line, and the right size, then it looks like you just have too little duty cycle.

[Z_Lancer_Man]

Pill is there and is the #58 drill size. Now granted, the bore is not perfectly aligned with the center axis of the rod stock, but it is the right size for my boost levels (< 25 PSI on 91 pump). I'll add 15% to my WGDC across the board and see what happens to my boost. Thanks for the help!

[Evo_Kid]

Originally Posted by Z_Lancer_Man

I thought, based on all the reading I've done, that the stock restrictor by the solenoid was to merely help stabilize the boost and reduce spikes - both things which could be corrected by fine tuning the ECU. Am I understanding this wrong?

Your right and wrong. Your right about what the restrictor by the solenoid does, but you should have it, as it will help make tuning easier. Removing it leads to more eradicate behavior (like your said), which is harder to tune.

[Z_Lancer_Man]

Originally Posted by Evo_Kid

Your right and wrong. Your right about what the restrictor by the solenoid does, but you should have it, as it will help make tuning easier. Removing it leads to more eradicate behavior (like your said), which is harder to tune.

Hmm, your reasoning does make sense. I knew when I lost the stock restrictor in the engine bay it would come back to haunt me

However, it appears then that not having it in would just make tuning more difficult, but not drop my PSI by almost 10 from target. I'm still gonna try upping my WGDC.

[Clemerson]

hi,

changed the stock to WG forge, is coming to 30psi.

I use 26psi, the problem that comes and 26psi in the rotation above 4500 up to 7000 falls to fixed 21psi.

I have to configure EcuFlash to maintain 26 psi between 4500 to 7000 rmp?

[detroit pistins]

I haven't had the chance to completely read thru this nice write up/thread, but if it is possible to tune the car at higher boost using the stock solenoid, then why are people switching to mbc's or aftermarket ebc's?
Thanks

[Z_Lancer_Man]

Originally Posted by detroit pistins

I haven't had the chance to completely read thru this nice write up/thread, but if it is possible to tune the car at higher boost using the stock solenoid, then why are people switching to mbc's or aftermarket ebc's?
Thanks

It's much simpler to just drop in a MBC, set it and forget it. Direct tuning with the ECU takes much more work and time, and of course requires changing ECU maps, which just scares some people - the potential to catastrophically destroy your engine will always turn away the weak of heart