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Old May 1, 2009, 10:56 PM   #1
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Replacing Clutch On Evo IX

I'm going to be changing my shot stock clutch out for an ACT clutch kit and flywheel this sunday. I've done clutches in FWD and trucks before but never on an Evo. My boy might let me do it in his shop but I don't want to start this if I'm not going to have time to finish. Just wondering about how long this took some of you.
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Old May 2, 2009, 12:05 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Werd View Post
I'm going to be changing my shot stock clutch out for an ACT clutch kit and flywheel this sunday. I've done clutches in FWD and trucks before but never on an Evo. My boy might let me do it in his shop but I don't want to start this if I'm not going to have time to finish. Just wondering about how long this took some of you.
Well, it took me 3 days . It sure ain't the same as doing it on a front wheel drive. I had done it on my old civic and thought the Evo couldn't be much different. You're in for alot of fun. But if you have a lift that'll make a huge diff I'm sure. I was working on my back on the garage floor.

The only advice I can tell you is when you get to removing the transfer case you can avoid having to remove the banjo bolt that is blocking access to the top bolt on the TC by repetitively unscewing and pulling back the TC. This will save you from having to bleed the ACD later on. Apparently some people reported having problems with bleeding. I did remove it and luckily didn't have any issues. I just used gravity bleeding and my ACD light never came on

Oh and one more thing. This may be a bit hard to explain but in order to remove the TC you're going to have to "make" some clearance by pushing the engine forward just up to the point that it touches the radiator. I think the first part that will touch the rad is the BOV but I'm not positive. Someone may want to chime in here. You'll see what I mean when you have a look. As the engine pivots forward the bottom bits will move towards the rad. Just make sure you're not squishing any parts in the process. To push it forward I just wedged the Mitsu car jack between the frame and the engine and opened it up until that BOV barely touched the radiator.

I'd like to say it was smooth sailing after that but it wasn't. I would HIGHLY recommend having a strong helper when putting the tranny back in. I tried for 3 HOURS to get the drive shaft to align with the clutch while putting it back and never got it in. If it's not perfectly aligned on all 3 axis's (x,y and z) that sucker ain't going nowhere. I was alone so I ended up buying an engine hoist for $200 and some nylon straps to hold it up from the top while I struggled underneath. But it sounds like you'll have access to a shop so you'll probably have a tranny jack too. If so...good for you!

And finally...just a word on ACT. I installed a ACT as well and am now having shifting problems. Very difficult to get it into 3 and 4. I was trying to figure out if different tranny oils might help and while calling different tuner shop for advice one of them in particular was very adamant about NOT EVER using ACT because supposedly they are garbage. That tuner shop even went as far as saying that's probably what wrecked my tranny and that I should have put a Exedy in there. Oh well, it's too late for me but I thought I'd pass that along. There seems to be alot of discussion around this issue so I'll let you draw your own conclusions. I didn't want to mention the tuner's name here but if you want to know who it is PM me and I'll let you know.

Good luck and let me know if you have anymore questions. I'll admit it's been a while since I've done it but if you ask specific questions I'm sure it'll all come back to me.
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Old May 2, 2009, 12:15 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Werd View Post
I'm going to be changing my shot stock clutch out for an ACT clutch kit and flywheel this sunday. I've done clutches in FWD and trucks before but never on an Evo. My boy might let me do it in his shop but I don't want to start this if I'm not going to have time to finish. Just wondering about how long this took some of you.
You've probably seen this already but just in case:

EVO Clutch Install, includes t-case removal and service manual links
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Old May 2, 2009, 12:27 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by musca999 View Post
You've probably seen this already but just in case:

EVO Clutch Install, includes t-case removal and service manual links
Yea I was checking that out before but unfortunately none of those links work haha. Damn, **** sounds like a lot of fun lol, can't wait. Thanks for the fair warning and extensive response lol appreciate it. I'll post up my results when I'm done. If anyone else wants to give there .02 that would be awesome.
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Old May 2, 2009, 03:11 PM   #5
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I don't have .02 to add... but I do have a question. Are you doing a Hydraulic throwout bearing or the conventional push type (still utilizing the slave cylinder)!?!? Cuz I am going to be doing a clutch for a buddy here in a few weeks when we both have time, and he tells me it is a Hyd. throwout bearing in his ckutch kit and Ihave never messed with them.

Dan
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Old May 3, 2009, 12:49 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by mini_evo View Post
I don't have .02 to add... but I do have a question. Are you doing a Hydraulic throwout bearing or the conventional push type (still utilizing the slave cylinder)!?!? Cuz I am going to be doing a clutch for a buddy here in a few weeks when we both have time, and he tells me it is a Hyd. throwout bearing in his ckutch kit and Ihave never messed with them.

Dan
I wasn't even aware that was an option nor have I ever heard of one lol. So I'm doing the generic TOB. I'm used to Honda's so this high end **** is all very new to me lol.
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Old May 3, 2009, 09:16 PM   #7
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Does anyone know what the benefit of the hydraulic throw out bearing over the mechanical one? Is it just for drag racing?
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Old May 3, 2009, 10:19 PM   #8
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It took me 3 days. One day to take everything off. One to put everything back on only to have the TOB come off. The last day to pull the tranny, fix TOB and put everything back together. This being my first clutch install ever, I have to say it was FUN!!! wink wink . The biggest problem i had was that the tranny kept getting hung up on the crossmember.
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Old May 5, 2009, 05:17 AM   #9
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It took me 3 days. One day to take everything off. One to put everything back on only to have the TOB come off. The last day to pull the tranny, fix TOB and put everything back together. This being my first clutch install ever, I have to say it was FUN!!! wink wink . The biggest problem i had was that the tranny kept getting hung up on the crossmember.
Hmmm...that may be why the Mitsu mechanic told me to use the jack to "push" the engine forward. Can't remember but that would make sense.
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Old May 5, 2009, 07:27 AM   #10
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it took me 9 hours with a friend who has done it about 5 times. needless to say, it was one of those things that was fun but you hate it at the same time.

Blood will be shed my friend. Good luck lol
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Old May 5, 2009, 07:29 AM   #11
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double post... my bad
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Old May 5, 2009, 07:34 AM   #12
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took me 3 days the first time... and musca999 in spot on everything u ned to kno.... also, i followed the evomoto how to.... Just when it comes to reinstall, DO NOT FORCE anything on, tranny should "slide" right in and the same with the Tcase
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Old May 5, 2009, 07:44 AM   #13
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Not that big of a deal. First time took me and a buddy six hours including a break for lunch and goofing off. It was a little tricky getting the transmission back in, but nothing serious. If you've done clutches in other cars, just read the guides on here and evomoto to get an idea of what you're going to be looking at.. we didn't pick them back up until it was time to pop the tob out of the clutch and drop the transmission, and then again after that just for torque specs.

Aside from the tcase (if you have a slide hammer, no biggie here either), its exactly like a fwd.
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Old May 5, 2009, 08:28 AM   #14
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Takes our shop 1 day to pull and install. Unless the fly wheel needs machineing, then we button it up the next morning..


And Musca999

I would recommed getting ur ACD professionally bleeded.. You should NEVER gravity feed ur ACD.. Maybe u got lucky but I rocommend to everyone els not to do that..

I posted up in another thread axactly how u should do it properly..
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Old May 5, 2009, 08:57 AM   #15
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book time on the repair is approx 10.3 hours according to motoralldata. at our shop rate of 85 an hour you would be looking at about 900 bucks in labor. might be worth calling around to the local mitsu dealers and seeing if they would be willing to do it for 50 an hour. be about 500 bucks, and would be done by one of their techs, so if anything got screwed up in the process they would be responsible. worth thinking about and looking into.
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