Advice/experience with installing Whiteline Roll Center correction kit (KCA395)?

EGbeater · Apr 9, 2009, 02:35 PM

I've bought a Whiteline KCA395 roll center correction kit for my Evo IX... I realize that I'll need a press to remove/replace the ball joints from the LCAs.

My question is this: has anyone done this install themselves, say with a cheapo Harbor Freight press like this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=4711

- and if so, did it go smoothly and easily, or did it turn into some sort of uber-headache nightmare where the lower control arm split during the pressing process?

I've heard some horror stories about trying to press bushing in/out of the Evo's rear control arms, and cracking the aluminum arm, but that's probably a result of the shape of the rear arm making it very difficult to press the bushings straight. Maybe that's not an issue at all with the Evo's front LCAs?

Thanks in advance for any actual experience with installing these parts.

tvieira24 · Apr 10, 2009, 09:09 PM

I just tried doing this today and didn't have much luck pressing out the oem ball joint so I dropped the LCA off at a shop

I was using a bootleg c clamp autozone special though so I'm guessing that had a lot to do with why it wasn't working out. I'm sure you'd have better luck with a real press.

EGbeater · Apr 14, 2009, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvieira24

I just tried doing this today and didn't have much luck pressing out the oem ball joint so I dropped the LCA off at a shop

I was using a bootleg c clamp autozone special though so I'm guessing that had a lot to do with why it wasn't working out. I'm sure you'd have better luck with a real press.

Thanks Tiago. I got it done without too much problem using a tool kit I "rented" (i.e., bought from, with the option to return it for a full refund) from Advance Auto. It costs $149.98 + tax to take it home.

I did have to add my own Harbor Freight 21mm impact socket to the mix to get it done though.

Pressing the ball joints in/out was actually pretty easy compared to removing/reinstalling the snap rings. And on one side, when re-installing the LCA, getting the new ball joint aligned right so it would go back up into the hub of the car was extremely frustrating - that took 35-40 minutes just for that seemingly no-brainer procedure.

Here's the exact kit I used:

It's a Powerbuilt 648617, also know as an Alltrade 648617:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._T|GRP2083____

I'll post a link to a full how-to writeup on installing the Whiteline KCA395 kit soon.

tvieira24 · Apr 14, 2009, 04:26 PM

That kit looks 100 times better than the kit Autozone supplied me with. Good to hear you had good luck with it, I'll have to try that one in the future.

Getting the ball joint aligned only took me a couple minutes. The shop I had it down pressed it in 180 degrees of so I just put the ball joint into the knuckle and rotated the LCA until the alignment with the bolt was correct, then I put the LCA in place & bolted everything up.

tsbevo · Apr 30, 2009, 09:21 AM

Guys, is an alignment needed after the installation of the front roll-center kit?

EGbeater · Apr 30, 2009, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsbevo

Guys, is an alignment needed after the installation of the front roll-center kit?

Well, yes and no. I carefully noted where my OEM tie rod ends were on the threaded rods before removing them, and reinstalled the Whiteline tie rod ends to the same position (the Whiteline parts are pretty much exactly the same length, from the ends of the part to the position of the actual ball joint).

Afterwards, I noted that my car tracked the same as before, and the steering wheel wasn't off-center to drive straight ahead either.

That being said, having taken the car back to the track with the Whiteline roll center parts installed, but NOT having it realigned, I believe I lost some negative camber, both because of how the wheels look, and because I seemed to have MORE trouble with front end grip than before - the opposite of what you'd expect after installing the roll center correction kit.

Someone smarter than me could probably confirm whether moving the LCAs down about 1/4" (what I measured to be the difference between the OEM Mitsu and Whiteline parts) will actually reduce the static negative camber in a McPherson strut suspension system.

Short answer: YES, expect to realign your car after installing these parts!

And I still will put a (separate) post up documenting my whole install process on the Whiteline KCA395 kit... eventually.

tsbevo · Apr 30, 2009, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EGbeater

Short answer: YES, expect to realign your car after installing these parts!

And I still will put a (separate) post up documenting my whole install process on the Whiteline KCA395 kit... eventually.

Thanks ... and looking forward to your writeup.

EGbeater · May 18, 2009, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EGbeater

And I still will put a (separate) post up documenting my whole install process on the Whiteline KCA395 kit... eventually.:

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsbevo

Thanks ... and looking forward to your writeup.

Finally got around to it:

Install a Whiteline KCA395 roll center correction kit on an Evo without a shop press

supremellama · May 25, 2009, 08:31 PM

Awesome write up! I'm seriously thinking of doing this myself now and everything else on my evo lol (even the cams in the future!

). I get lazy with DIY only because it's so much easier with a lift.

Did you also install the Bump Steer Kit and Steering Precision Kit?

Haven't installed any of my suspension stuff yet. Going to install all of them once I get coilovers, swaybars, rims, and tires. My car will be on rails hopefully in a month.

Oh...and would it be worth it to replace a billion bushings with whiteline ones? I look at maperformance.com and they had like...more. Not sure which ones are worth the time and money that would benefit me.

Thanks for the write up EGBeater.

huevosrancheros · May 29, 2009, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvieira24

I just tried doing this today and didn't have much luck pressing out the oem ball joint so I dropped the LCA off at a shop

I was using a bootleg c clamp autozone special though so I'm guessing that had a lot to do with why it wasn't working out. I'm sure you'd have better luck with a real press.

I tried the same thing. No luck with the vatozone tool for me.

That harbor freight unit looks good. At least its hyrdraulic. I'll be doing mine at work, lol. I just found out we had one w/ a compressor attachment to it. Ours is heavy duty.

EGbeater · May 30, 2009, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supremellama

Did you also install the Bump Steer Kit and Steering Precision Kit?

I didn't.

Quote:

Originally Posted by supremellama

Oh...and would it be worth it to replace a billion bushings with whiteline ones? I look at maperformance.com and they had like...more. Not sure which ones are worth the time and money that would benefit me.

Well, the roll center correction kit actually changes/improves the front suspension geometry. None of the other Whiteline bushing replacement kits provide this benefit - they just take some squish and compliance out of your suspension so your car will be slightly more responsive.

If you're looking for more front-end grip or better handling, you might consider Perrin's P.S.R.S. bushings that provide more caster:

PERRIN EVO Positive Steering Response System......

Seems like installing these bushings will necessitate modifying the car to get the clearance necessary for the altered locations of the suspension parts though.

Note that when you replace OEM suspension bushings with aftermarket urethane bushings, you'll typically get a harsher ride for street driving. Is this tradeoff worth it to you? Only you can make that decision.

My Evo rides bad enough with reduced suspension travel and 447F/600R# spring rates, and I'd rather spend the money I could put into replacement bushings towards wider wheels/tires, which will more effective in creating higher cornering grip.

jplgsx · Jun 2, 2009, 06:14 AM

There are a couple of things to note when installing the Whiteline roll center kit. First, in removing the original ball joint it helps not only to remove the boot and "C" ring, but also to grind down the aluminum ring on the back side of the ball joint. The control arm is peened over to capture the stock ball joint and it helps the pressing out process if you CAREFULLY grind off some or all of that aluminum ring that holds the bottom of the ball joint in.

Then when you use a press or the kit shown above the joint will press out a lot easier. Be sure to CAREFULLY clean out around the aluminum ridge that is left behind before you press in the new Whiteline ball joint. Also make certain that the new ball joint is seated so that the snap ring will hold it in. Fill in the ball joint with ball joint grease and then top it off with the new yellow boot. Use a large socket or similar tool to tap the boot down on the joint so that it is seated securely.

As far as the tierod ends go you can screw them on to the inner tie rod ends and match the factory location on the threaded rod, but you MUST still get the car aligned. Zero toe on the front folks.

This kit is designed in particular for those of you that lower your Evo's ride height. In doing so you change the angle of the lower control arm and tie rods. This results in your roll center being below ground level. This is a BAD thing as it causes understeer even with a lower center of gravity. The kit brings the roll center back up above ground and allows you to enjoy a lower center of gravity without the penalty associated with a roll center that is too low.