Under steering in Auto X

[I'm blue]

Hi guys I hops some of the pros around can help in this matter I'm getting a little of under steer in Auto X keeping in mind that my evo has HKS RS suspension Cusco Swaybars front and rear AEM front start bar and Cusco rear strut bar and anti roll front Cusco bridges... Any recommendation from your side on this matter...

[justboosted02]

more negative camber in front, zero your toe if you haven't already done so, increase the stiffness in the rear coilovers, make your rear swaybar stiffer if you can

[I'm blue]

probably the camber and the toe can help, as for stiffing my rear suspension its not adjustable and the sway is already on max

[bigboybusa]

What size rims and tires are you running?? What offset???

[I'm blue]

Stock BBS 17"
245/35/17

[I'm blue]

what is a good camber adjuster brand to get from if any can u please supply me with a link.

[justboosted02]

Originally Posted by I'm blue

Stock BBS 17"
245/35/17

I hope this is a typo

[justboosted02]

Originally Posted by I'm blue

what is a good camber adjuster brand to get from if any can u please supply me with a link.

your stock eccentric bolts are good for about -2 degrees camber. if you want/need more then i know tien makes camber plates

[AJsGenerX]

Wider wheels and tires will only help you

[GTLocke13]

Originally Posted by I'm blue

Hi guys I hops some of the pros around can help in this matter I'm getting a little of under steer in Auto X keeping in mind that my evo has HKS RS suspension Cusco Swaybars front and rear AEM front start bar and Cusco rear strut bar and anti roll front Cusco bridges... Any recommendation from your side on this matter...

Don't stomp the brake and turn in at the same time.

[sleeper3]

Dial in at least -2.0 camber in front and a small bit of toe out, which will help with initial turn in. For the rear go for -1.5 camber and zero toe.

You also need to play with the tire pressures and damping adjustment on the HKS coilovers. Try higher pressures and stiffer damper adjustment for the rears versus the front and see if that helps.

[Evo_Someday]

Originally Posted by Lancerlover

Wider wheels and tires will only help you

Yes but in STU class you're limited to a tire width of 245 on an AWD car if I'm not mistaken.

[RoBear]

Originally Posted by GTLocke13

Don't stomp the brake and turn in at the same time.

I'm surprised someone didn't mention this sooner. While a measure of controlled oversteer can be a good thing, understeer is almost never beneficial and almost always means poor technique. I think it would behoove you most to correct your technique rather than just strapping on more expensive hardware that just masks the problem.

By the way, I'm speaking to myself just as much as you.... at Sunday's AutoX down here in H-town I was plowing through turns like a Chicago salt truck!

[madmax199]

Understeer could be the result of many things including poor set up and can also be driver induced or both.
Since you didn't mention any class and driving variables, the most common cause of understeer in the evo is too much front roll. The weight transfer causes the front to roll excessively resulting in a loss of camber and overload of the outside edge of the front tires that are already carrying most of the static weight.

The condition could be solved by increasing roll resistance through springs and/or roll bar(be carefull the right combination is primordial).

Another cause of understeer is also common on poorly/overly drop evo that messes up the supension geometry to the point that the roll couple is too big and the car rolls over the front wheels at lower loads than it should.
The fix for that is raising the roll center to correct hight(RC correction kit if class permitted)

Having wider front track(up to a point) and a wider contact patch(wider tires) will also help the condition in the sense that it raises the limit(load and speed) where the understeer starts.

[currahee474]

Your entry speed might be too high.