Autotune program

wilson1 · Oct 9, 2004, 01:54 AM

Anybody use the autotune program?

BJai02 · Oct 10, 2004, 12:53 AM

Well, in order to tune Autronic, you MUST use the Aototune program. If your question is rather we enable autotuning, I do that for all my non-boost zones.

wilson1 · Oct 10, 2004, 01:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BJai02

Well, in order to tune Autronic, you MUST use the Aototune program. If your question is rather we enable autotuning, I do that for all my non-boost zones.

Why not for the boost zones?

BJai02 · Oct 11, 2004, 09:26 AM

I only do road tune with my car. There is no way I can make the car stay at a particular load/rpm site when boosted. It helps in there is a long stretch uphill, but I don't think it is possible to autotune anything above 3psi without going to dyno.

Rally291 · Oct 14, 2004, 08:43 PM

You don't have to use autotune, but it is sold at no cost with all the new SMC and SM2 ECU's

I used it when I tuned my rally car and it is THE hot lick.

I've also done minor tweaking in 'manual' mode and it is not hard to do. It is best to have the wide-band sensor and AFR display right in front of you when you do this, especially under load.

b18flip · Nov 3, 2004, 03:32 PM

what exactly is autotune? Does it allow you to set the desired AFR's and it pretty much tunes its self?

BJai02 · Nov 4, 2004, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b18flip

what exactly is autotune? Does it allow you to set the desired AFR's and it pretty much tunes its self?

That's exactly what it is. You set the desired AFR for each RPM/LOAD cell, then drive your car around and let the engine stay in that particular cell for a couple seconds... and you are done! Very handy tool.

b18flip · Nov 4, 2004, 06:01 PM

wow that sounds really cool...i might go w/ this over AEM down the road. It sounds a bit easier to work with

Rally291 · Nov 12, 2004, 11:19 AM

Just make sure you know what the AFR *should* be for each point in the load table or you will end up with very expensive melted bits of aluminum in your engine.

Adjusting timing is equally, if not more, sensitive and important. Timing is free power, but once you go too far....it isn't free anymore, but VERY expensive.

GOT EVO · Nov 30, 2004, 07:37 PM

Rally291

do you have any sugestions for A/F at each point in the load table. ill be going to autronic next week. thanks

Jeremy

BJai02 · Dec 1, 2004, 02:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GOT EVO

Rally291

do you have any sugestions for A/F at each point in the load table. ill be going to autronic next week. thanks

Jeremy

For what it worths, I tuned my EVO at 1.36 bar and 11.3 AFR, 91 octane. What kind of octane do you run? Do you have a wideband and going to tune it yourself?

GOT EVO · Dec 1, 2004, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BJai02

For what it worths, I tuned my EVO at 1.36 bar and 11.3 AFR, 91 octane. What kind of octane do you run? Do you have a wideband and going to tune it yourself?

my buddy/autronic dealer will be working on it. ill make adjustments in the future when weather conditions change and such. i use 93 generally and 94 when i can ill begin with the autronic wideband then switch to inovate wideband after initial tune. i had planned on shooting for 11.2 AFR thats where my dynoflash was set at. basically im just wanting to get more information on others setups so i get a pretty good idea of where ill be at before i even start

Jeremy

Rally291 · Dec 3, 2004, 02:03 PM

I run race gas (103) and that is what the car is mapped for. If you switch fuels, you should re-evaluate your map as different fuels have different octanes AND densities.

Generally speaking, 12.7:1 is normally VERY close to best power. HOwever, at high boost loads (lets say >15 psi) you want more fuel to help cool the piston crowns and intake valves so you run rich at those points in the map. For the 'cruise' settings (little or no boost) I run just on the rich side of stoichiometric (14.64:1) at about 14.6 and it runs fine.

I think I went to the low 13s for the 'throttle transition' points and 12.7 for the points between 10 and 15 psi. Above 15 psi I'm at about 11.6 or 11.8

I've seen cars that were mapped as rich as 10.8:1 and ran OK, just made a bit of black smoke at the gear change under heavy load.

What you want to avoid is going SO rich that you get into a scenario where you 'bore wash' the engine and burn up the rings. Basically what happens is that you spray SO much fuel that it washes the oil out of the cross-hatchings in the bores and the rings grate against the cylinder walls with no lube. This is a bad thing.

Its best to start rich and work your way toward lean than the other way around. Just don't go too far. Watching EGT and torque (if you're on a dyno) will tell you what you need to know.

GOT EVO · Dec 3, 2004, 03:59 PM

the autronic will be here tuesday

Toddevo 8 · Dec 3, 2004, 04:01 PM

how much does it cost.