Mark@AMS

iTrader: (1)

Pistons:
• AMS spec Ross pistons utilize our specially designed quench area.
• Slipper skirt design helps cut down the weight by using less material and using a shorter pin. The 2.3rr pins weigh 92 grams compared to standard length pins at 101 grams.
• Window milling and internal plunge milling is done to help reduce weight.
• Black skirt lube is used to help prevent galling and help reduce friction.
• Green Top Fuel Coating (similar to hard anodizing) of the entire piston is done to help prevent skirt scuffing, improve piston hardness and strength.







Connecting Rods:
• Custom manufactured to AMS specs these rods are longer than stock yet weigh less. The 2.3RR AMS rod weighs 584 grams compared to a standard length Oliver rod at 593 grams.
• Upgraded ARP 625 custom age bolts with a tensile strength of 260,000 lbs are utilized in place of standard ARP 2000 bolts at 210,000 lbs.





Crankshaft:
• Made of the finest 4340 steel, the crank is core hardened, nitride, and mag-particle inspected to ensure there are no flaws.
• Knife edging is done to help cut through standing oil in the pan
• Large radii fillets increase strength
• Improved oiling by implementing cross drilled oil holes

AutoMotoSports

iTrader: (42)

God I love this engine!

Nez136

iTrader: (10)

Yea that thing is awesome...

CharlieGsanD

iTrader: (1)

not to bag on you guys for an awesome product, but you may want to think about rewording the "Knife-Edged Crank" to something like machined counterweights for reduced frictional losses...... cause thats the dullest knife edge ive ever seen!

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

Now combine this with the previous info on the engine that was released by Martin and sticky that beotch.

l8r)

11secEVO7

iTrader: (37)

ahh..so this is what my motor looks like inside!

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

^ lucky bastard!!

l8r)

2k4EvoVIII

iTrader: (15)

You actually see better results if you work the back edge of the counter weights instead of the front FYI.

Chris

Big Boost

AMS Team:

I have the following questions on this engine set-up?


1. Which head (8 or 9) do your recommend for this engine & why?


2. Do you add oil squiters - If no, why not.


3. Are the top of the pistons coated (Y/N). If no, do you recommend any coating on the top of the pistons & the in combustion area on the head?

What about any coatings on the crank?


4. Do you O-rings these blocks & what head gasket do you use & recommend.


5. Do you use new or used blocks & if used how do you assure the blocks are not cracked.


6. What is the rod ratio (if you can share) & could you swap out these rods for Aluminum rods? If this was not a daily driven motor, but a street driven car would you recommend this or not?


Slightly off topic, but I am very interested to hear AMS views overall on the MIVEC system. With the cams available today would you recommend an Evo 9 head over an Evo 8 head?

I've heard that the MIVEC system can improve spool times on larger (35r) turbo set-ups. Have you found this to be the case?

Any insights you can provide here would be greatly appreciated & thanks for your time.

Big Boost

srt4-Joe

iTrader: (1)

I would like to know, how you know, where to place the holes in the counter weights and how much to take out? Is this recommended for all street driven cars or non-daily drivers.

TALONGT

iTrader: (1)

Looks killer guys.

vortech_g35

iTrader: (4)

This will be my next modification

Tim@AMSperformance

iTrader: (34)

1 Either cyl head will work . We havent done enough playing around to know which works better.

2. Oil squirters are added for piston cooling

3. Besides the pistons being top fuel coated there is no additional coating on the tops.

4. We do o-ring the block and use a custom head gasket

5. We use used blocks, they are througly pressure checked and magnafluxed to verify no cracks.
6. The rods could be swapped but would be custom. This could benefit by lightening the rotating assy. Also custome pistons should be made to ensure the piston to head clearances are bigger for aluminum rods.

48mile

iTrader: (6)

based on my past experience with vw's, cranks with holes drilled in the counterwieghts led to oil foaming due to air passing through and mixing with the oil when the hole passed through the oil in the sump. any problems like this ever arise with this setup?

DBallz

iTrader: (7)

Now if I only had the money for a block upgrade