SAFC II pin layout....

Frank Dux · Jun 20, 2006, 09:58 AM

SO I installed my safc II and my car is runnign like dog crap. I didn't know whether to plug the RPM wire in pin 88 or 58 so I went with 88 per AMS install guide. Is this wrong? Should it be 58?
My problem is that the idle shows at 450 while it is truly idling at 950ish. I changed the number of cylinders from 4 to 2 then and idle is correct but car is still sluggish and falls on its face.
The other thing i noticed was that I must be running pig rich, which is probably causing the falling on face. I burnt 1/4 tank of gas going 35 miles driving very conservatively.
My settings are
Low throttle 30% High throttle 60%
ANd I only messed with the high throttle settings dropping from 1% to 11% at the range of 5k to 7.2.

Thanks.

Warrtalon · Jun 20, 2006, 10:20 AM

It's supposed to be 58, not 88. Don't worry, that was a big mixup that everyone had, but it's for sure 58. I tapped into the wrong one at first, too.

Keep it on 4cyl with the arrow pointing northeast and the sensor type as Karman.

Did you mean from -1% to -11%? If you did positive fuel corrections, then your new nickname is Richie Rich.

Really, though, there's no reason to even bother with the SAFC when a flash costs even less than the SAFC + hardware, gives more HP, more TQ, and more features (SAFC gives none). This is ESPECIALLY the case for you, since you're in Chicago right near AMS who does flashes, and Dynoflash was just there tuning 25-30 Evos for rock-bottom prices. He also is coming back in late July...

Frank Dux · Jun 20, 2006, 11:06 AM

actually it is negatives. WOuld this cause my stuttering and stuff?
Not richie Rich though.
I bought this thing a while ago and just wanted to install it and get it over with.

Warrtalon · Jun 20, 2006, 05:05 PM

Why not sell it and get a flash so that you make more power and have no issues? I can't imagine why you'd want to deal with all this crap only to end up with less power and no features whatsoever?

No, removing fuel should not cause you to stutter. First, remove the SAFC and plug the ECU back in. If everything goes back to normal, then you can be sure it's the SAFC. Then, you would have to doublecheck all the wire splicing into the patch harness, ensure everything is done properly, then re-install it, initialize it, then start the setup process all over again using the write up on Evotuners.net :

How to: Install an AFC-II in an EVO 8
S-AFC/S-AFCII tuning guide.

If you still have the same problem without the SAFC installed, then install a fresh set of NGK BPR7ES plugs gapped to .026.

I'm telling you, a flash will be 0 hassle, much faster, much smoother, and much more enjoyable. It will only cost $175 max when Dynoflash comes back in late July, and I'm sure you can sell the SAFC for that much.

Frank Dux · Jun 20, 2006, 05:29 PM

Remember that I agree with you that a flash at this point is a better option but I dont want to spend money on that right now. i just wanted to gain a little something and had the SAFC2 sitting around so I installed it.
I know that my plugs are fine and it has something to do with the SAFC. My question is will the RPM wire being connected to pin 88 instead of 88 cause these problems?

Warrtalon · Jun 20, 2006, 05:45 PM

If you're not going to do what's best for yourself, then I'm not interested in helping, sorry. I answered your questions, now go figure it out.

Frank Dux · Jun 20, 2006, 09:46 PM

Actually, you didnt answer my question and you arent obligated to. As far as your idea's of whats best for me. You have no idea what is best for me or what I like. Maybe i want to use alcohol/water injection in which i would be constantly be having to change my MAPs wether I am driving on the street or at the track.
Maybe I am going to sell the car and I want to sell all the parts i have sitting around with it, ort maybe I just want to know what the different behavior will be if the RPM wire is plugged into pin 88 instead of 58.
Sure you can tell me to check my plugs/air filter/fuel filter/fuel MAP on the SAFC/vaccum leaks etc etc but you didnt answer my question so don't break my balls like you already did.
Dont get me wrong, I do appreciate your help as I am sure many other people have in the past, but don't be so 1-dimensional.

turboj · Aug 12, 2006, 11:28 AM

same goes for me bro, back here where I come from, reflash? nadah. Just a simple safc will do the job. at least that 's my idea. see, i don't really get to come across shops that do those reflash thing. They may be more expensive here, since I live in Manila. I hope you sort it out, and that it does go well. I'll be off buying my safc soon. cheers!

krafty · Aug 12, 2006, 11:40 AM

Tach output is pin 58.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...-ecuwiring.htm

cpoevo · Aug 12, 2006, 11:45 AM

Keep the AFC once you commit and learn how to tune it you can adjust your tune anytime you want. Warrtalon is stuck on flashes and himself. If you want the AFC do it. There are numerous threads on Socalevo.net about AFC tuning. Most people in Socal tune with an AFC and make awesome horsepower gains contrary to popular belief.

krafty · Aug 12, 2006, 11:48 AM

Check this out for more help: http://www.evotuners.net/forums/show...=&threadid=315

turboj · Aug 12, 2006, 12:03 PM

thanks man!

turboj · Aug 12, 2006, 12:10 PM

btw, how much gain do you think tuning the A/F of a stock evo would make? I meant by simply leaning it out around how much hp?