Best Hi Boost Controller That Helps Prevent Taper(Stock Turbo)

[ROGERV]

Originally Posted by Jim in Tucson

Are you saying when boost is set at 30 it tapers to 24.5psi and when set at 27 it tapers to 23psi? Sorry, but I'm easy confused.

no it tapers to 24.5 at 7k and 23 at 8k on both boost settings. I now only run the 30psi boost setting.

[andrewzaragoza]

Originally Posted by mrfred

I think you are too used to thinking in terms of MBCs and the cheaper EBCs. The better (more expensive) EBCs allow setting target boost settings at several points across the rpm range. The stock ECU boost control algorithm has the same feature. With this feature, "peak" boost is nearly irrelevant to the boost acheivable at high rpm. With my ECU-based boost control, whether I set the boost to 15 or 27 psi at 4000 rpm, I can still hit 22 psi at 7000 rpm (My boost level at 7000 rpm is relatively anemic because I'm still using the stock BCS and an HFC).

yes i plan to try out the ecu based boost control using gm 3 port to achieve higher boost at high rpm. what do you recommend the usual load based or is it worth it to get a map sensor and do the psi based?

[mrfred]

Originally Posted by andrewzaragoza

yes i plan to try out the ecu based boost control using gm 3 port to achieve higher boost at high rpm. what do you recommend the usual load based or is it worth it to get a map sensor and do the psi based?

I think its more personal preference as to what makes sense. I used to think that strict control over boost was needed to keep from blowing a HG or doing something worse, but its my current philosophy is that what really matters is keeping knock under control and keeping AFR is in a safe range. With that said, I like psi-based control.

[wreckleford]

Are all of you using stock actuators? I have tuned a car with a Green using a Forge 20psi actuator and it will hold 30psi all the way to Redlien using a Profec Type S boost controller.

[andrewzaragoza]

yes still on IX actuator. green should be able to hold more boost up top.

[dan l]

Originally Posted by mrfred

I think its more personal preference as to what makes sense. I used to think that strict control over boost was needed to keep from blowing a HG or doing something worse, but its my current philosophy is that what really matters is keeping knock under control and keeping AFR is in a safe range. With that said, I like psi-based control.

Knock, knock, knock, did I mention knock? Knock will lift heads and push headgaskets. Its all about cylinder pressure. Sure boost increases it, a little. Sure altering timing can increase torque and raise cylinder pressures, but only a little bit. However detonation pulses really stress those head bolts. I've lifted more heads than I care to mention. In every case the knock sum was over 20, sometimes in the 30's. One time I even had the KS maxed out and that took all but 2 seconds (without timing pull) to lift a seriously cool set of headbolts. I've had many lean spells over the years and that never lifted a head. The same is true of overboosting (without big knock on race gas), never lifted a head.

[nothere]

If you are still looking for a ebc that will hold psi and get there in a hurry, I was very pleased in that regard with a turboboost 2. I need the function of boost not coming on strong at low throttle, so I am going to go "McFred/ Tephra" stock.

So I have a very well priced ebc&s fs.

[PeteyTurbo]

I hated the profec spec b..It was like the stock turbo was too quick for it and it always had a hard time, the mbc gives me a much better puch on spoolup.. The spec B would also make the car surge if I turned it up to high because of BOV leaking..