Backfire then No start!
#17
I'm having the same problem here in Iowa, but I'm running the stock ECU and the buschur mini battery.
At night I park the car in the garage, but during the day I don't since I'm at work. I tried to jump it, removed the battery and tried to jump it that way too and nothing. This was after I chnged the spark plugs from BPR7ES to BPR8ES and let the cylinders air out a bit. I'm hoping that saturday after the temp goes up to the 20's I can start by car.
One thing that must be noted, if you back fire after cranking so many times, it could be that the engine is flodded. I had this issue once, and I was told by the mechanics at mitsu in GA, that I have to remove the spark plugs, wipe them clean, crank with them off, and then reinstall and crank again. That worked on 10 degree weather though.
My next attempt will be after I hook up the magnetic engine warmer for about an hour when the temp goes back to the 20's.
Another option I have it to push start the car. But I'm not sure if I can push it on my own. I wish I had another car right now.
List of mods
Wahlbro Fuel Pump
AMS 1000cc injectors
HTA35R
HKS DLI II
Buschur upper and lower IC pipes
Race Core IC
HKS Hi Power Exhaust
Perring Cat delete
Buschur Mini Battery
Perring Fuel Rail
that's all that relates to the engine.
If anyone has any pointers or Ideas let me know, please.
At night I park the car in the garage, but during the day I don't since I'm at work. I tried to jump it, removed the battery and tried to jump it that way too and nothing. This was after I chnged the spark plugs from BPR7ES to BPR8ES and let the cylinders air out a bit. I'm hoping that saturday after the temp goes up to the 20's I can start by car.
One thing that must be noted, if you back fire after cranking so many times, it could be that the engine is flodded. I had this issue once, and I was told by the mechanics at mitsu in GA, that I have to remove the spark plugs, wipe them clean, crank with them off, and then reinstall and crank again. That worked on 10 degree weather though.
My next attempt will be after I hook up the magnetic engine warmer for about an hour when the temp goes back to the 20's.
Another option I have it to push start the car. But I'm not sure if I can push it on my own. I wish I had another car right now.
List of mods
Wahlbro Fuel Pump
AMS 1000cc injectors
HTA35R
HKS DLI II
Buschur upper and lower IC pipes
Race Core IC
HKS Hi Power Exhaust
Perring Cat delete
Buschur Mini Battery
Perring Fuel Rail
that's all that relates to the engine.
If anyone has any pointers or Ideas let me know, please.
#18
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Well AEM called back and said the e-prom chip was toast inside the aem. They replaced it and is shipping it back asap. Hopefully that will fix my problem
Thats all for now. Ill let you know whats up
Thats all for now. Ill let you know whats up
#22
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Well, after the AEM ems came back, sure enough I lost the tune. For now I loaded a base map and the car runs really rich until 3000+ rpms. I have the car parked for now because Im deployed.
So to recap, Car wouldn't start. There was no spark. Fuel pump would not prime. Coils would not produce signal to injectors. And power wasn't going to the pump.
Called AEM, mailed in my EMS, told me E-prom chip fried, 50 dollar fix, reinstalled EMS, lost tune.
REMEMBER TO SAVE YOUR TUNE. In alaska, im pretty much on my own. Ill have to tune my own car, unless somebody does E-mail tunes and whatnot.
So to recap, Car wouldn't start. There was no spark. Fuel pump would not prime. Coils would not produce signal to injectors. And power wasn't going to the pump.
Called AEM, mailed in my EMS, told me E-prom chip fried, 50 dollar fix, reinstalled EMS, lost tune.
REMEMBER TO SAVE YOUR TUNE. In alaska, im pretty much on my own. Ill have to tune my own car, unless somebody does E-mail tunes and whatnot.
#25
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Im glad I could help. The previous owner is trying to locate the tune that was done on the car, I really hope he can find it because It will save me some money and time.
#27
No Start in cold
Hello,
My 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES has a hard time starting when it gets cold out around 15 F and will not start when it is 0F. And if it does not start the first time I crank it over then it will not start for sure if I crank it again. The only code I get is for a oxygen sensor behind the cat, which has been on for a year or so. I have changed the plugs, wires, coils, and coolant temp sensor, changed the oil, (5w30), I also replaced two small vacuum line on the throttle body that seemed bad, cleaned out most of the vacuum lines, new air filter and cleaned the mass air flow sensor. When it does start in the cold it seems to struggle for the first minute or so then it seem perfectly fine.
Thanks
My 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES has a hard time starting when it gets cold out around 15 F and will not start when it is 0F. And if it does not start the first time I crank it over then it will not start for sure if I crank it again. The only code I get is for a oxygen sensor behind the cat, which has been on for a year or so. I have changed the plugs, wires, coils, and coolant temp sensor, changed the oil, (5w30), I also replaced two small vacuum line on the throttle body that seemed bad, cleaned out most of the vacuum lines, new air filter and cleaned the mass air flow sensor. When it does start in the cold it seems to struggle for the first minute or so then it seem perfectly fine.
Thanks
#28
Check that your intercooler hose has not popped off...But look carefully because sometimes its slip off but not completely and you might miss it.
What you described is what exactly happened to me in the past where I couldn't start the car after cranking and cranking and then all of a sudden I hear a loud backfire....!
What you described is what exactly happened to me in the past where I couldn't start the car after cranking and cranking and then all of a sudden I hear a loud backfire....!
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