Brake Caliper Temp Questions
#1
Brake Caliper Temp Questions
Hi All,
I just got back from running the NASA HPDE @ Blackhawk Farms race track in Northern Illinois and need some advice and teaching regarding brake temps.
Background:
Ran an HPDE at Mid-Ohio with Girodisc 2-piece rotors, stock lines, Raybestos ST43 in the front , Girodisc Magic pads in the rear and Motul RB600 fluid. One session I got a really squishy pedal, almost to the floor, but the rest of the weekend it was fine (did not bleed the brakes). I think as I got faster I braked less if that makes any sense. The calipers looked like new after that weekend.
Since then I have flushed the whole system and switched to the ST43 pads in the rear and Girodisc Ti heat shields all around. I did not get ANY brake fade or squishy pedal during my 4 sessions this past Saturday at Blackhawk, however my rotors are now nearly black and I hit approximately 490*F for front caliper temps. . .
Other than getting cooling ducts for the front - is there anything else I should be looking at or thinking about changing? I did not get rotor temps unfortunately. I will try to check them next time out. . .
EVOlutionary
I just got back from running the NASA HPDE @ Blackhawk Farms race track in Northern Illinois and need some advice and teaching regarding brake temps.
Background:
Ran an HPDE at Mid-Ohio with Girodisc 2-piece rotors, stock lines, Raybestos ST43 in the front , Girodisc Magic pads in the rear and Motul RB600 fluid. One session I got a really squishy pedal, almost to the floor, but the rest of the weekend it was fine (did not bleed the brakes). I think as I got faster I braked less if that makes any sense. The calipers looked like new after that weekend.
Since then I have flushed the whole system and switched to the ST43 pads in the rear and Girodisc Ti heat shields all around. I did not get ANY brake fade or squishy pedal during my 4 sessions this past Saturday at Blackhawk, however my rotors are now nearly black and I hit approximately 490*F for front caliper temps. . .
Other than getting cooling ducts for the front - is there anything else I should be looking at or thinking about changing? I did not get rotor temps unfortunately. I will try to check them next time out. . .
EVOlutionary
Last edited by EVOlutionary; Jun 13, 2010 at 08:48 PM.
#2
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Well if ya didn't get any fade and were comfortable at speed eventually, I don't see much of an issue. Blackbo's/pad destruction/rotor blue'ing are pretty common on heavy braking/high speed tracks which you've seen in here a few hundred times. Mostly happens on the rear for me since I got no ducting. But your on the right track, ducting will help a ton if routed correctly. After I switch from OEM to girodisc rear's I haven't seen blue'ing. On the fronts I still have PF 2 piece which are about 1.5 years in, just starting to crack in the very middle but nothing near the edge. Certainly nothing blue or over heated. I'm running Ray's 47 up front and 45 in rear. I will say I like them a LOT better then 43's all around. When you get up to speed the 43's just can handle the pressure anymore for our pigs.
Edit: Thinking about it, it makes sense. With the 43's I was braking longer and sometimes forever it seemed. With the 47/45's i'm braking later, harder, and quicker. Likely another reason I'm not heating up as bad.
Edit: Thinking about it, it makes sense. With the 43's I was braking longer and sometimes forever it seemed. With the 47/45's i'm braking later, harder, and quicker. Likely another reason I'm not heating up as bad.
Last edited by Balrok; Jun 13, 2010 at 09:05 PM.
#3
Not worried about the color of them per se - but wondering if caliper temps approaching 490F according to my little stick on temp gauges is getting TOO high. I guess you're right - if I didn't have any fade then it should be fine. Just kind of worrying that I may be approaching the limits of the seals and whatnot?
#4
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Very similar thread here with some good suggestions: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...ew-brakes.html
FYI, my calipers turned black in 20 mins and the dust seals started to crumble even with Ti Shields.
FYI, my calipers turned black in 20 mins and the dust seals started to crumble even with Ti Shields.
#5
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Hi All,
I just got back from running the NASA HPDE @ Blackhawk Farms race track in Northern Illinois and need some advice and teaching regarding brake temps.
Since then I have flushed the whole system and switched to the ST43 pads in the rear and Girodisc Ti heat shields all around. I did not get ANY brake fade or squishy pedal during my 4 sessions this past Saturday at Blackhawk, however my rotors are now nearly black and I hit approximately 490*F for front caliper temps. . .
Other than getting cooling ducts for the front - is there anything else I should be looking at or thinking about changing? I did not get rotor temps unfortunately. I will try to check them next time out. . .
EVOlutionary
I just got back from running the NASA HPDE @ Blackhawk Farms race track in Northern Illinois and need some advice and teaching regarding brake temps.
Since then I have flushed the whole system and switched to the ST43 pads in the rear and Girodisc Ti heat shields all around. I did not get ANY brake fade or squishy pedal during my 4 sessions this past Saturday at Blackhawk, however my rotors are now nearly black and I hit approximately 490*F for front caliper temps. . .
Other than getting cooling ducts for the front - is there anything else I should be looking at or thinking about changing? I did not get rotor temps unfortunately. I will try to check them next time out. . .
EVOlutionary
Nice putting a face to the screenname finally this weekend!
Blackhawk is an absolute b*tch on the brakes. If you're ok there; you're ok overall. I would run ducting just for the piece of mind. I also noticed drastically extended pad life when I ducted mine going into 2008.
Btw; I want some more of those temp sticks - where can I get them?
#6
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The last track day that we did, my calipers were 592, so 490 shouldn't be a problem at all. I have Ti shims and NO ducting, r comps and HTC10 pads. I have no issues with the brakes as long as I bleed before every event and flush every year.
#7
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EVOlutionary - car looked and sounded good out there this weekend. I regret not getting around to stop by and say HI. Like boomn29 said, if the brakes survived a day at Blackhawk then you should be fine anywhere else.
This weekend was my first weekend using my first set of Girodisc 2 piece for the front. They seem to be a good quality product. With the new rotors, Hawk DTC 60's, Ti shims, and proper venting the Brembos seemed to hold up well under lots of abuse.
This weekend was my first weekend using my first set of Girodisc 2 piece for the front. They seem to be a good quality product. With the new rotors, Hawk DTC 60's, Ti shims, and proper venting the Brembos seemed to hold up well under lots of abuse.
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#8
Thanks everyone for the help. I will add some ducts before the next event. I think the next one I'm doing is Mid-Ohio in a month or so. . .
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product
#9
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The ams kit is really nice but kinda pricey im sure once you get some cooling ducts this will help alot. You may need to up grade your brakes you are on slicks with what looks like an awsome evo.
#10
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I agree with Boomn.... of all the tracks I visit BHFs is the hardest on my brakes. It's the only track that I've totally lost my pedal on and pretty much without warning. As you know BHF is a dangerous track to have an "off". To avoid wrapping my car around a tree I usually run 5 hard laps and 1 complete cool down lap. That still provides plenty of ludicrous speed lapping and reduces the number of pucker marks on my seat.
Some BHF's vids here:
http://www.paulelertson.com/video_pa...ted_films.html
Some BHF's vids here:
http://www.paulelertson.com/video_pa...ted_films.html
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