Dry Cone filter vs. Oil Cone filter
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Dry Cone filter vs. Oil Cone filter
Whats up people. I have an Evo X GSR, completely stock right now, but I am thinking of taking out the air box and installing a cone filter. I am going to leave on the scoop and front half of the airbox to increase cold air flow. I am debating whether to get a K&N or an AEM. I spoke with a couple of friends and they said that they used to use a K&N but switched to a dry filter because after a while, they opened their throttle body and said it was BLACK. They cleaned it and switched to a dry filter and that problem never happened again. Anyone else that uses an oiled filter looked at their throttle body lately? I know that they perform better than a dry filter, but at what cost? Any input?
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have you tried the k&n drop in panel filter ? I have it and its very good .
plus unless you are going to get a cold air setup changing to another ram air is pretty redundent . plus the drop in filter islike 40 bucks .. just my 2cents
good luck
plus unless you are going to get a cold air setup changing to another ram air is pretty redundent . plus the drop in filter islike 40 bucks .. just my 2cents
good luck
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The stock air box can support 350 crank hp easily, I'd just do the drop in. The HKS green foam one didn't seem up to the task of filtering as well as it could have- now I'm running the Ralliart one from Mitsubishi.
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Is there any HP gain from a drop in? What is the gain vs. a cone filter? Will a drop in filter bring out the sound of the turbo/bov like a cone does?
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#8
cone filters have larger surface area, so it lets the engine breath easier, = more power. You'll need a custom retune with conefilter because the MAF reading will be off.
aem dry filter v.s. k&n oil filter? I've seen test results showing aem dry filter flowing less than competitor's filters
aem dry filter v.s. k&n oil filter? I've seen test results showing aem dry filter flowing less than competitor's filters
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Where are the shops near me?
#10
Well I got in on the Autozone cone filter experiment that was posted somewhere around here. And for 24.99, you cant go wrong. I absolutley noticed a difference.
So much misinfo on the subject though. you do not need to recalibrate your pcm for a filter. you arent changing the maf housing. If you choose to buy a filter that requires oil, dont over oil it. That is the biggest cause for maf failures.
I made my own intake, everyone that sees it says "where did you buy that?"
So much misinfo on the subject though. you do not need to recalibrate your pcm for a filter. you arent changing the maf housing. If you choose to buy a filter that requires oil, dont over oil it. That is the biggest cause for maf failures.
I made my own intake, everyone that sees it says "where did you buy that?"
#11
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I don't understand why people even say this. All you have to do is drop in a bigger turbo and all of a sudden the stock air box, air filter, UICP, LICP, intake (turbo inlet), intercooler, throttle body, intake manifold and entire exhaust is easily supporting 400-450 crank hp.
Now throw on any drop-in filter like a K&N or full cold air intake and you'll obviously get gains on top of what the turbo gave. The argument that the stock air box can support XXX power doesn't even matter, because intakes on these cars are known to free up some power in a tune.
I've never had problems with oiled filters, and I've cleaned a few oiled K&N filters and re-oiled afterwards without over-doing it and causing any problems. I've also seen the throttlebody after 10k miles of using an oiled cone filter and it looked just fine, no black gunk or build up.
Now throw on any drop-in filter like a K&N or full cold air intake and you'll obviously get gains on top of what the turbo gave. The argument that the stock air box can support XXX power doesn't even matter, because intakes on these cars are known to free up some power in a tune.
I've never had problems with oiled filters, and I've cleaned a few oiled K&N filters and re-oiled afterwards without over-doing it and causing any problems. I've also seen the throttlebody after 10k miles of using an oiled cone filter and it looked just fine, no black gunk or build up.
#12
I don't understand why people even say this. All you have to do is drop in a bigger turbo and all of a sudden the stock air box, air filter, UICP, LICP, intake (turbo inlet), intercooler, throttle body, intake manifold and entire exhaust is easily supporting 400-450 crank hp.
Now throw on any drop-in filter like a K&N or full cold air intake and you'll obviously get gains on top of what the turbo gave. The argument that the stock air box can support XXX power doesn't even matter, because intakes on these cars are known to free up some power in a tune.
I've never had problems with oiled filters, and I've cleaned a few oiled K&N filters and re-oiled afterwards without over-doing it and causing any problems. I've also seen the throttlebody after 10k miles of using an oiled cone filter and it looked just fine, no black gunk or build up.
Now throw on any drop-in filter like a K&N or full cold air intake and you'll obviously get gains on top of what the turbo gave. The argument that the stock air box can support XXX power doesn't even matter, because intakes on these cars are known to free up some power in a tune.
I've never had problems with oiled filters, and I've cleaned a few oiled K&N filters and re-oiled afterwards without over-doing it and causing any problems. I've also seen the throttlebody after 10k miles of using an oiled cone filter and it looked just fine, no black gunk or build up.
I think what they mean is that it doent turn into a restriction until 350. but I find that hard to beleive too. Perrin actually requires that you use the stock airbox on there stage 3 program
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Thanks for the input... Because there are mixed opinions, I went with the Cosworth dry drop-in panel filter. I think it is the safest bet and should give me a couple hp. I'm going to get my car tuned as soon as I can find someone around Va. Beach, Va. to do it.
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the works drop in gain during our dyno day up here in Toronto was great. off the top of my head I think there was a 13hp or so gain on the dyno dynamics dyno. The K&N drop in should perform well. even if its plus or minus a few points, it will see add HP and TQ for sure. We also did testing on running with no filter. and the results were interesting
Getting to the oil vs. dry. I think the performance will be pretty close, we will be testing publishing our second round of testing in the new year so we will be able to look more into that question.
the first round of testing from earlier this year is in this thread https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...round-1-a.html
Getting to the oil vs. dry. I think the performance will be pretty close, we will be testing publishing our second round of testing in the new year so we will be able to look more into that question.
the first round of testing from earlier this year is in this thread https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...round-1-a.html
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X's are tuned excessively rich from the factory. A low restriction air filter helps correct the air-fuel ratio, so gains power. But a good tune totally fixes the ratio so filter choice isn't important, except that you want to tune after you choose a filter, not before. If you're going for a tune, I'd choose a filter known for it's filtering capability rather than flow. IE, stock or stock equivalent. Someone mentioned using a Ralliart filter on an X? What's that about?