Best spark plugs for evo 8
#6
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iTrader: (82)
Copper Plugs:
Stock/Bolt-Ons - BPR7ES
Bolt-Ons/Bigger Turbo + High Boost - BPR8ES
Iridium Plugs:
Stock/Bolt-Ons - BPR7EIX
Bolt-Ons/Bigger Turbo + High Boost - BPR8EIX
Link...
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/cust...pe=Spark+Plugs
Copper plugs are cheaper but need to be changed more often. Plugs with the heatrange of 7 should be good for boost levels of 25 and below. If you're running more than that, you should probably go for heatrange 8.
Stock/Bolt-Ons - BPR7ES
Bolt-Ons/Bigger Turbo + High Boost - BPR8ES
Iridium Plugs:
Stock/Bolt-Ons - BPR7EIX
Bolt-Ons/Bigger Turbo + High Boost - BPR8EIX
Link...
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/cust...pe=Spark+Plugs
Copper plugs are cheaper but need to be changed more often. Plugs with the heatrange of 7 should be good for boost levels of 25 and below. If you're running more than that, you should probably go for heatrange 8.
Last edited by MasterNater; Feb 9, 2009 at 08:51 PM.
#7
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iTrader: (38)
Id buy the BR7ES and the BPR7ES. Try them both and decide which you think your car runs better on.
BR7ES - Non Protruding Tip
BPR7ES - Protruding Tip
I used to run the BPR I then tried the BR and found the car to like non protruding a bit more. I wouldn't switch to 8's until you gobigger turbo
The 7's = Stock heat range
The 8's = A step colder
Incase your were confused
BR7ES - Non Protruding Tip
BPR7ES - Protruding Tip
I used to run the BPR I then tried the BR and found the car to like non protruding a bit more. I wouldn't switch to 8's until you gobigger turbo
The 7's = Stock heat range
The 8's = A step colder
Incase your were confused
Last edited by gsrboi80; Feb 10, 2009 at 06:25 AM. Reason: UUUR proofreading owns me LOL
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#9
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I think my BPR's knock less than BR.. it may be subjective... but theory goes that the closer the spark to the center of the chamber (with projected/protruding design) — to ignite the mixture from the center — the better the results/burn. If it's burning from the middle the process should happen faster (good for power and knock prevention). Non-protruding/projected tips were designed for smaller clearance chambers to avoid the piston hitting the plug tip.
It's also thought that BR is a half step colder than BPR..
All above, FWIW...
Oh and this:
rly?
It's also thought that BR is a half step colder than BPR..
All above, FWIW...
Oh and this:
rly?
Last edited by mplspilot; Feb 10, 2009 at 09:40 AM.
#10
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iTrader: (38)
^ Thinking about it that does make a lot of sense. I did run the BPR's for a while like I said though the car seem to run a bit smoother from the BR's. This was on the stock heat range with full boltons.
Now I'm big turbo and switched to the 8's. I immediately just picked up the BR's as I ran them in the 7's.
I'm going to grab BPR8's and see if I can feel any difference good or bad from the BR8's. I'll put the car into various situations and log each (Not sure that I'll see anything).
I def see where the theory of the protruding tip should produce a more complete burn.
Good Discussion
Now I'm big turbo and switched to the 8's. I immediately just picked up the BR's as I ran them in the 7's.
I'm going to grab BPR8's and see if I can feel any difference good or bad from the BR8's. I'll put the car into various situations and log each (Not sure that I'll see anything).
I def see where the theory of the protruding tip should produce a more complete burn.
Good Discussion
#12
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There is another school of thought which contends that a protruded tip, such as that of the BPR's is more prone to preignite the air/fuel mixture than the BR's recessed tip is. In this scenario, the hot, glowing tip, protruding further down into the combustion chamber, auto-ignites the air/fuel mixture prematurely, before the piston reaches TDC on the compression stroke, and before the sparkplug fires.
Last edited by sparky; Feb 13, 2009 at 06:23 AM.