The Correct Way to Install a Head Gasket?
Oct 13, 2008, 08:35 AM
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The Correct Way to Install a Head Gasket?
So for some reason I'm doubting myself on the method I used to install a new head gasket. Probably from reading too many ARP 1x1 threads 
Last night I assembled my head onto the block following the good ol' service manual process. Here's the process.
- Clean block surface and head surface with brake parts cleaner.
- Install ARP head studs in block (they've been used before and put through the initial stress cycling).
- Put head gasket on.
- Put head on.
- Torque studs to 58 ft-lb following pattern.
- Release studs in reverse order to 0 ft-lbs
- Torque studs to 85 ft-lbs (20, then 50, then 80, then 85).
I'm just wondering if I should have torqued to 85ft-lb directly and not have done the 58, and then release.
Looking for some feedback from people with solid experience in this regard.
Last night I assembled my head onto the block following the good ol' service manual process. Here's the process.
- Clean block surface and head surface with brake parts cleaner.
- Install ARP head studs in block (they've been used before and put through the initial stress cycling).
- Put head gasket on.
- Put head on.
- Torque studs to 58 ft-lb following pattern.
- Release studs in reverse order to 0 ft-lbs
- Torque studs to 85 ft-lbs (20, then 50, then 80, then 85).
I'm just wondering if I should have torqued to 85ft-lb directly and not have done the 58, and then release.
Looking for some feedback from people with solid experience in this regard.
Oct 13, 2008, 04:06 PM
#4
well, my experience with torques patterns are as follow:
there is a very good reason why one would increment torque values, this helps to seat the piece of hardware you are torquing plus it prevents from warping the piece you are torquing.
for example do a test and torque a flat panel that has 4 bolts one in each corner, and torque to full value just one corner and you would havel load up that one corner and the corners where no bolts in yet will have gaps, you just warped the piece of hardware.
specially when you have more than four bolts in a piece of hardware you want to ensure it seats correctly.
i work in areospace and everything has to be torqued in a sequence and specially when is a cover or a surface that has to seal after the torque, it will be torqued criss cross pattern, and in increments. you never go strit to the value.
some people would say ah what the hell just torque it, but when you are torquing two parts together and specially they have to creat a seal, torque patterns, stepping the torques up from 10 ftlbs to 30 to 50 to final value, in the design world of mechanical systems is a default to must do
sorry for the long story,,, now go to sleep
there is a very good reason why one would increment torque values, this helps to seat the piece of hardware you are torquing plus it prevents from warping the piece you are torquing.
for example do a test and torque a flat panel that has 4 bolts one in each corner, and torque to full value just one corner and you would havel load up that one corner and the corners where no bolts in yet will have gaps, you just warped the piece of hardware.
specially when you have more than four bolts in a piece of hardware you want to ensure it seats correctly.
i work in areospace and everything has to be torqued in a sequence and specially when is a cover or a surface that has to seal after the torque, it will be torqued criss cross pattern, and in increments. you never go strit to the value.
some people would say ah what the hell just torque it, but when you are torquing two parts together and specially they have to creat a seal, torque patterns, stepping the torques up from 10 ftlbs to 30 to 50 to final value, in the design world of mechanical systems is a default to must do
sorry for the long story,,, now go to sleep
So for some reason I'm doubting myself on the method I used to install a new head gasket. Probably from reading too many ARP 1x1 threads
Last night I assembled my head onto the block following the good ol' service manual process. Here's the process.
- Clean block surface and head surface with brake parts cleaner.
- Install ARP head studs in block (they've been used before and put through the initial stress cycling).
- Put head gasket on.
- Put head on.
- Torque studs to 58 ft-lb following pattern.
- Release studs in reverse order to 0 ft-lbs
- Torque studs to 85 ft-lbs (20, then 50, then 80, then 85).
I'm just wondering if I should have torqued to 85ft-lb directly and not have done the 58, and then release.
Looking for some feedback from people with solid experience in this regard.
Last night I assembled my head onto the block following the good ol' service manual process. Here's the process.
- Clean block surface and head surface with brake parts cleaner.
- Install ARP head studs in block (they've been used before and put through the initial stress cycling).
- Put head gasket on.
- Put head on.
- Torque studs to 58 ft-lb following pattern.
- Release studs in reverse order to 0 ft-lbs
- Torque studs to 85 ft-lbs (20, then 50, then 80, then 85).
I'm just wondering if I should have torqued to 85ft-lb directly and not have done the 58, and then release.
Looking for some feedback from people with solid experience in this regard.
Oct 13, 2008, 04:13 PM
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I pretty much followed the manual, but I'm nervous about that un-torque step, the gasket makes some noise, like "you're screwed now buddy"
Oct 14, 2008, 08:38 AM
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Sounds like people have had success with just going up to the torque setting and not doing the pre-load...
Has anyone HAD a problem with following the manual and pre-loading?
Has anyone HAD a problem with following the manual and pre-loading?
Nov 4, 2008, 02:11 PM
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The ARP instructions say follow the manufacturers torque pattern. Hand tighten fasteners in block. Final torque of 80ft/lbs or 85ft/lbs w/o ARP lube. To be performed in three equal increments.
Nothing about going to zero like with the factory bolts. The factory manual also states that after final torque to paint a line on the bolt and head, turn 90*, then 90* again for final value (no torque # stated) This is common on most heads. The 90* value is easy to achieve, some cars state 67* ect. Some new torque wrenches actually measure degrees traveled for this reason.
Nothing about going to zero like with the factory bolts. The factory manual also states that after final torque to paint a line on the bolt and head, turn 90*, then 90* again for final value (no torque # stated) This is common on most heads. The 90* value is easy to achieve, some cars state 67* ect. Some new torque wrenches actually measure degrees traveled for this reason.
Last edited by althemean; Nov 4, 2008 at 02:14 PM.
Nov 4, 2008, 03:04 PM
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I know that the factory manual has you loosen after initial torquing to stretch the stock fasteners. But my main concern/question was whether or not that was bad on the gasket itself, or if it actually benefited the gasket by pre-seating it a little.
I think ARP headstuds should be good to reuse - that's one of the reasons they exist, for people swapping out heads often.
So anyway, I'm not sure if the pre-load process is good or bad for the gasket itself. If I did it over I would spray copper gasket sealer on it for added sealing power and just torque to 85 ft-lb following the pattern and stepping up in three stages.
I think ARP headstuds should be good to reuse - that's one of the reasons they exist, for people swapping out heads often.
So anyway, I'm not sure if the pre-load process is good or bad for the gasket itself. If I did it over I would spray copper gasket sealer on it for added sealing power and just torque to 85 ft-lb following the pattern and stepping up in three stages.
