How to Install a Front License Plate without drilling the Bumper
#1
How to Install a Front License Plate without drilling the Bumper
Well here it is folks, a boltless way of installing a front license plate without having to drill through your bumper. What I have done is pretty much relocated the Japanese style front license plate position to the center of the nose. For $16.07 you can have a front license plate installed without having to drill holes on your bumper.
First off you need to go to any car store like Advance Auto Parts, Murray's, Pep-boys, etc. and get a license plate mount like the one shown below. It's fairly cheap like 5 bucks.
You can get Tie straps and weatherstrip from a Home Depot.
Below is the total cost for all the items you need to install the front license plate mount.
Next you will see the outline of the area you will be installing the new license plate mount.
And here are the tools you need to install it with.
Make 4-6 sets of tie straps that look like below, interlinked in pairs. Be sure to snip off the tail ends that stick out of the head and indicated below.
Next slide 1 by 1 the tie straps through from the right inlet to the left inlet through the backside as shown below.
Use pliers if necessary if you can't get your fingers in the tight space to pull the other end of the tie strap through to the front.
In the end it should be sticking out like the picture below. The reason why I taped a pair so it's easier for me to indicate which head end of the strap is connected to which tail end.
Now apply several weather strips to the locations shown below or wherever you deem necessary in order to prevent the mount from rubbing on your bumper. Weather strips is a good idea to use here because it absorbs vibration which also prevents the mount from taping the bumper and making loud noises. Also it prevents the mount from leaving scratch marks on your bumper and gives the mount a bit of grip on the rubbery surface.
When the mount is attached to the nose it'll look like below.
The next step is OPTIONAL. By placing tie straps below and connected to the grill to stabilize and keep the mount from sliding and drifting upwards due to uplift drafts if that ever happens, but in 99% of the situation the wind is pushing the plate against the bumper and the gravity to pulling it downward so it's more of a extra safety precaution than a actual requirement. Below I only marked the right side but you can do the left side too. I did both sides.
Finally, pull all the tie straps as hard as you want till the mount is securely tighten onto the bumper. And be sure to snip off all the excess tail that sticks out of the tie strap. If your mount doesn't look like the picture below then you must of missed a step or you are stupider than a monkey. j/k....
Notice the top corners of the mount, I place additional weather strip there because upon mounting the mount I notice the corners where touching the bumper. It might vary for others so place where you see fit.
There you go a flawless look that doesn't block the inter cooler or the air intake flow. You at most probably only cover 3 inches on both side from the center beam of the nose but that isn't where the Air intake or the MAJORITY of the inter cooler is located at. They are situated above or below where the new mount location is.
-Raytrix
First off you need to go to any car store like Advance Auto Parts, Murray's, Pep-boys, etc. and get a license plate mount like the one shown below. It's fairly cheap like 5 bucks.
You can get Tie straps and weatherstrip from a Home Depot.
Below is the total cost for all the items you need to install the front license plate mount.
Next you will see the outline of the area you will be installing the new license plate mount.
And here are the tools you need to install it with.
Make 4-6 sets of tie straps that look like below, interlinked in pairs. Be sure to snip off the tail ends that stick out of the head and indicated below.
Next slide 1 by 1 the tie straps through from the right inlet to the left inlet through the backside as shown below.
Use pliers if necessary if you can't get your fingers in the tight space to pull the other end of the tie strap through to the front.
In the end it should be sticking out like the picture below. The reason why I taped a pair so it's easier for me to indicate which head end of the strap is connected to which tail end.
Now apply several weather strips to the locations shown below or wherever you deem necessary in order to prevent the mount from rubbing on your bumper. Weather strips is a good idea to use here because it absorbs vibration which also prevents the mount from taping the bumper and making loud noises. Also it prevents the mount from leaving scratch marks on your bumper and gives the mount a bit of grip on the rubbery surface.
When the mount is attached to the nose it'll look like below.
The next step is OPTIONAL. By placing tie straps below and connected to the grill to stabilize and keep the mount from sliding and drifting upwards due to uplift drafts if that ever happens, but in 99% of the situation the wind is pushing the plate against the bumper and the gravity to pulling it downward so it's more of a extra safety precaution than a actual requirement. Below I only marked the right side but you can do the left side too. I did both sides.
Finally, pull all the tie straps as hard as you want till the mount is securely tighten onto the bumper. And be sure to snip off all the excess tail that sticks out of the tie strap. If your mount doesn't look like the picture below then you must of missed a step or you are stupider than a monkey. j/k....
Notice the top corners of the mount, I place additional weather strip there because upon mounting the mount I notice the corners where touching the bumper. It might vary for others so place where you see fit.
There you go a flawless look that doesn't block the inter cooler or the air intake flow. You at most probably only cover 3 inches on both side from the center beam of the nose but that isn't where the Air intake or the MAJORITY of the inter cooler is located at. They are situated above or below where the new mount location is.
-Raytrix
Last edited by raytrix; Apr 9, 2009 at 05:32 PM.
#4
Evolving Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
PA has a lot of Amish folks. Their cool. Nice job...best one I've seen so far (but I already drilled the bumper...canards, plate, splitter....oh well, just a car, right?)
Good work!
Good work!
#7
nice. i just got pulled over for not having one. the cop let me go cause i told him i would put it up tomorrow. i really didnt want to drill the bumper so this is great.
Trending Topics
#14
Ive had it on there for over a week now. gone "fast" a few times hasn't moved at all. I'm hopping the zip ties don't dry up and crack over time.
#15
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Nanuet, NY
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats what im worried about. Im sure by winter time they will weaken and with the snow might loose my license plate.
Whats that stuff that holds the badges on trunks of cars? Taking them off is a huge pain cause its so tough. Maybe adding that sticky stuff along with zip ties and maybe some strong fishing line or something would really secure that thing down for the paranoid.
Whats that stuff that holds the badges on trunks of cars? Taking them off is a huge pain cause its so tough. Maybe adding that sticky stuff along with zip ties and maybe some strong fishing line or something would really secure that thing down for the paranoid.