Spark plug installation writeup?
Apr 19, 2010, 08:54 AM
#2
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Just google for a writeup, as the evo x is not really much different from any other car. The main difference is the coil pack is mounted directly on to each spark plug hole, so you have to remove that (two bolts). Basic process is this:
Tools needed:
Socket wrench
5/8" spark plug socket
Socket extension
Anti-seize
Di-electric grease
Remove plastic engine cover
For each spark plug:
-Remove coil pack (two bolts)
-Use a 5/8" spark plug socket to loosen and remove the spark plug, but be gentle to avoid stripping the threads (it's best to do it when the engine has cooled down imo)
-Optional: Use just a little bit of anti-seize on the uppermost threads (away from the actual electrode) of the spark plug, and use di-electric grease on the metal end (terminal) of the spark plug that the spark plug boot will connect to (this is the top of the spark plug when looking at a spark plug while it's installed in the engine)
-Put the new spark plug into your spark plug socket, and use your hand to install the spark plug (do not use a socket wrench at first). Once you've tightened as much as possible by hand, use a socket wrench to tighten further, but stop once you get a bit of resistance. Then get your torque wrench and torque to spec (typically around 13-14 ft lbs).
-Re-install coil pack. Don't overtighten those two bolts. I think they are around 10 ft lbs or so.
-Repeat this process for each of the four spark plugs - I recommend doing one at a time so you don't get confused as to which coil goes with which hole.
Tools needed:
Socket wrench
5/8" spark plug socket
Socket extension
Anti-seize
Di-electric grease
Remove plastic engine cover
For each spark plug:
-Remove coil pack (two bolts)
-Use a 5/8" spark plug socket to loosen and remove the spark plug, but be gentle to avoid stripping the threads (it's best to do it when the engine has cooled down imo)
-Optional: Use just a little bit of anti-seize on the uppermost threads (away from the actual electrode) of the spark plug, and use di-electric grease on the metal end (terminal) of the spark plug that the spark plug boot will connect to (this is the top of the spark plug when looking at a spark plug while it's installed in the engine)
-Put the new spark plug into your spark plug socket, and use your hand to install the spark plug (do not use a socket wrench at first). Once you've tightened as much as possible by hand, use a socket wrench to tighten further, but stop once you get a bit of resistance. Then get your torque wrench and torque to spec (typically around 13-14 ft lbs).
-Re-install coil pack. Don't overtighten those two bolts. I think they are around 10 ft lbs or so.
-Repeat this process for each of the four spark plugs - I recommend doing one at a time so you don't get confused as to which coil goes with which hole.
Last edited by LaXGSR; Apr 19, 2010 at 09:20 AM.
Oct 6, 2010, 02:18 PM
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You don't "have" to have a torque wrench, but it's a worthwhile investment for anyone working on cars - just get a 3/8" 10-75 ft lb torque wrench. If you don't have one, the spark plug box (at least for NGK's) typically will say how much to turn it after tightening it by hand. Note that what this means is, you use your extension and tighten by hand (without a socket attached to it) as much as possible. Then it will say "+1/4 or +1/2 turn". This is where you put your socket on, and turn it either a 1/4 turn (90 degrees) or 1/2 turn (180 degrees). In general, I've found a 1/4 turn to be plenty (about what the torque wrench method will result in).
Oct 7, 2010, 02:59 AM
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you also HAVE to make sure your car is cool when you change them. DO NOT change them on a car that you just ran due to the heads being aluminum. Also buy plugs from dealer. The ones that Autozone, and auto parts places sell are wrong size. Even the NGK web site is wrong. they all reccommend a plug that the threads are 1/2" too short. If your able to get the right ones from a parts store great, but all around here are not. Best bet is to take one with you, so when you tell them they are wrong, you don't get the look like you have a dick growing from your forehead. dealer for me was $70 for the set. And always verify your gap on the plugs. just cause they say PRE GAPPED, does not mean they are. good luck.
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Oct 7, 2010, 06:30 AM
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you also HAVE to make sure your car is cool when you change them. DO NOT change them on a car that you just ran due to the heads being aluminum. Also buy plugs from dealer. The ones that Autozone, and auto parts places sell are wrong size. Even the NGK web site is wrong. they all reccommend a plug that the threads are 1/2" too short. If your able to get the right ones from a parts store great, but all around here are not. Best bet is to take one with you, so when you tell them they are wrong, you don't get the look like you have a dick growing from your forehead. dealer for me was $70 for the set. And always verify your gap on the plugs. just cause they say PRE GAPPED, does not mean they are. good luck.
If I amma pay that much I will pay lil more and get HKS ones for $99
May 5, 2012, 02:52 AM
#9
Yep, the friction modifier debate is the same kind of deal as the anti-seize. I too don't think what you've done will cause you a problem, but some folks say to put a "liberal" amount on. I would vigerously oppose that. I also think by you staying at the lower end of the torque spec. is a good idea, especially when using the anti-seize. I am going to change my diff./Xfer case fluids soon, and will add the friction modifier to the Mobil 1. In this case I don't believe the additional will cause any addverse effects......I hope, LOL!
May 8, 2012, 05:47 AM
#14
I'm absolutely positive the spark plugs should be torqued to 13-14 ft lbs... 32-33 would strip the aluminum head
You don't "have" to have a torque wrench, but it's a worthwhile investment for anyone working on cars - just get a 3/8" 10-75 ft lb torque wrench. If you don't have one, the spark plug box (at least for NGK's) typically will say how much to turn it after tightening it by hand. Note that what this means is, you use your extension and tighten by hand (without a socket attached to it) as much as possible. Then it will say "+1/4 or +1/2 turn". This is where you put your socket on, and turn it either a 1/4 turn (90 degrees) or 1/2 turn (180 degrees). In general, I've found a 1/4 turn to be plenty (about what the torque wrench method will result in).
You don't "have" to have a torque wrench, but it's a worthwhile investment for anyone working on cars - just get a 3/8" 10-75 ft lb torque wrench. If you don't have one, the spark plug box (at least for NGK's) typically will say how much to turn it after tightening it by hand. Note that what this means is, you use your extension and tighten by hand (without a socket attached to it) as much as possible. Then it will say "+1/4 or +1/2 turn". This is where you put your socket on, and turn it either a 1/4 turn (90 degrees) or 1/2 turn (180 degrees). In general, I've found a 1/4 turn to be plenty (about what the torque wrench method will result in).
The old school method is tighten by hand with the "feel" .. loosen, then re-tighten 1/4 turn. If you dont want to do the feel method then grab a smaller torque wrench meant for smaller jobs.
