How to: change your own oil (n00b edition) - Page 2

xi · Jun 17, 2009, 08:24 AM

If you know the dimensional and material specs on it, you can get a whole bag of gaskets for free from McMaster as an "engineering sample" if you work for a company that has an account. Probably get some with even better properties than the original.

jve153 · Jun 19, 2009, 03:45 PM

Mitsubishi recommends a synthetic blend for the ralliarts, altho i personally would use a full synthetic. that being said, going from conventional to synthetic and back again is not going to be an issue since the recommended synthetic blend is a blend of conventional and synthetic. most dealers have gone to a synthetic blend (ask), and i know we charge about 37 bucks and some change for the blend, full synthetic, yeah, your looking at around 80 bucks unless you bring your own (which lots of people do). also, IMO the best filter to go with the car (provided its not a fully built race car, and if it is, you wouldnt be reading this) is the factory filter. generally runs between 7 and 8 bucks. car was designed to use that filter, might as well use it. just my .02

03chi-town0Z · Jun 20, 2009, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdc

Can anyone put up a picture of the drain plug gasket? I believe it's the same for the first gen RA. My problem is that when I went to pick one up at the local Mitsu auto parts, the guy looked it up and then gave me a regular washer saying that it was the gasket.

same crush washer as all the new model mitsu's use. why would he even look that up? not a very good parts guy if u ask me. MD050317 is the part number if he still is having issues.

as far as the filter question goes, you're better off going oem than anything else unless of course its full race application which, as said before, shouldnt need to read this thread. for the extra two bucks over aftermarket cost its worth it. besides, they come pre-lubricated. MZ690116 in case anyone wants this part no. also

rdc · Jun 20, 2009, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 03chi-town0Z

same crush washer as all the new model mitsu's use. why would he even look that up? not a very good parts guy if u ask me. MD050317 is the part number if he still is having issues.

IDK, I just thought that maybe it would be a washer made out of some kind of plastic or silicon so as to be used only once. Until then I never even thought of it being just any regular washer that I can even get at my local hardware store. Thanks for the part No.

Edit. I just saw a picture of the gasket and its nothing like what they gave me. I guess I´ll be paying some other parts store a visit from now on.

MacGyverGT · Jul 8, 2009, 11:22 PM

I might need to get some of those ramps. I checked the manual ('09 Ralliart) and I may have missed where they indicate the recommended jacking points. All I can find refenced in the manual are the side jack points (for changing a flat tire with the rickety jack provided with the spare).

Does anyone know an acceptable front jacking point for a floor jack and jack stands (that won't crush and bend the underbody)?

How about the rear jack points as well for performing tire cross-rotation?

TIA

markguutz · Aug 26, 2009, 05:10 PM

Nice going to do this myself today

mattgood2 · Sep 3, 2009, 03:44 PM

fyi - my car takes nowhere near 5 quarts; fully drained it'll fill with a little over 4...anyone else note their fill amounts varying?

justin81 · Sep 3, 2009, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MacGyverGT

I might need to get some of those ramps. I

Does anyone know an acceptable front jacking point for a floor jack and jack stands (that won't crush and bend the underbody)?

How about the rear jack points as well for performing tire cross-rotation?

TIA

I would like to know this too

velocityhead · Sep 4, 2009, 07:46 AM

When jacking the front, I use the jacking point directly behind the front wheel well (there's two notches cut out in the rail there). I think that point is described in the manual, but it's been a while since I've looked.

justin81 · Sep 4, 2009, 09:15 AM

That's the only points I saw in the manual. Notches on front and rear.

akj237 · Sep 4, 2009, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justin81

That's the only points I saw in the manual. Notches on front and rear.

If you jack anywhere along the rail you'll be fine.

akj237 · Sep 4, 2009, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattgood2

fyi - my car takes nowhere near 5 quarts; fully drained it'll fill with a little over 4...anyone else note their fill amounts varying?

Are you changing the oil filter as well? If you're not changing the oil filter I could see it only taking about 4 1/2 quarts but if you are changing the oil and oil filter it definitely takes 5 quarts.

mattgood2 · Sep 5, 2009, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akj237

Are you changing the oil filter as well? If you're not changing the oil filter I could see it only taking about 4 1/2 quarts but if you are changing the oil and oil filter it definitely takes 5 quarts.

1st change i did the filter too, let it drain bone dry and added 5 qts and the stick was reading over-filled as hell. gave it a couple days and checked it againv- still over-filled - so i drained it and put back in about 4 1/4 qts after draining and re-installing the filter talso and it reads full now. 4 1/4 and its top dot on the stick, with 5 qts it was a goodf 1/2 inch over...cant explain it but def dont wanna drive over-filled...thoughts?

velocityhead · Sep 5, 2009, 08:03 PM

I'm guessing that even though you let it drain "bone dry" there was still a good amount of oil left, like in the lines to the turbo for example.

I just changed my oil for the first time with Mobil 1 and noticed the same thing...I drained everything and replaced the filter (which was slightly bigger than stock). The manual said it would take something like 5.4 quarts with a new filter, but I found that after 5 quarts it was a little over-filled too.

akj237 · Sep 7, 2009, 08:13 PM

That's weird??? I don't know what to say about it taking less than 5qts. I did mine for the first time about a month ago and after draining the oil and removing the filter 5qts was dead nuts on. Meaning it was filled up to the second dot but wasn't over. I did let mine drain for about a half hour as I enjoyed a few cold beers but didn't do anything special.