richardjh

I thought I would document the basic steps involved in my getting to a Happy Place with an Australian domestic market (AUDM) 2009 Ralliart Lancer.

Along the way, I found...

- A lot of smart people had paved the way, through open-source projects, shared tunings, developing interfaces, etc.
- When the word "de-tuned" was used to describe the Ralliart powerplant, they weren't kidding.
- It was quite possible to rectify this matter while spending less than AU$250 all up.
- There were several viable data logging solutions for Ralliart ECU's engine management.


Now, all of the info posted up here is available from various sources - I didn't come up with any of it. But maybe it will help someone else along, so they don't have to Google until 4am.


The usual provisos: This isn't an exhortation to do anything you're not already planning on doing. Nothing went kaboom for me, but if something goes kaboom for you I won't be able to "fix" it (I'm not in any automotive/mechanical trade). Take responsibility for your own decisions. Don't run with scissors. Be excellent to each other.


Edit: I'm revising a few things (September 2011), such as referencing Golden's XML Definition website instead of old XML for just one ROM image.



So without further ado...


PART 1 - SHOPPING LIST, DOWNLOADS, ETC.


Hardware

Tactrix OpenPort 2.0
From: http://www.tactrix.com, in the store under ECU Tools. Note:

Don't buy the "Mitsubishi Reflash Cable" unless you plan on working with earlier model EVOs too. Not required for Ralliarts (or EVO X).

Do buy the microSD card.

Do buy the OBD2 Extension Cable. The Ralliart's OBD location is totally kickable. I'm still kicking myself for not adding one to my Tactrix order!


Laptop, Notebook, Netbook, whatever.
Anything with USB, I'd guess. As luck would have it, I'd just bought a cheap Netbook running XP. Small, not much grunt, but perfectly good for the task at hand.


Software

ECUFlash
Free (but you paid for the Tactrix OP2.0 hardware)

From: http://www.tactrix.com, in the downloads section.

When I was doing this, I used a beta release (1.43.3150), as it had invaluable stuff like:
- Automatic firmware update for OpenPort 2.0 to add "standalone logging" ability to the unit.
- Ability to compare two selected ROMs (in a simple manner).

I didn't have any trouble with this beta version - don't know if other people have had a similarly smooth experience with it. It did the job for me.


EvoScan
Inexpensive, very useful. From: http://www.evoscan.com/


Extra Files to Download

ROM Definition XML

ROM definitions are available on Golden's website.

Download the file - save in "C:\Program Files\OpenECU\EcuFlash\rommetadata\mitsubishi\lanc er" (or wherever you keep your EcuFlash stuff)...




GST Base Maps

Now for the really cool stuff!

I downloaded a reworked base map (care of Bryan at GST Motorsports, California). See here:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...t-basemap.html

Bryan has obviously spent some serious effort on this project - "giving back to the community" is the understatement of the century. Awesome work.


As my Aussie 2009 Ralliart was 100% bone-stock, I downloaded the "2009 AUS / EDM - 93 oct - StockPill - V2" ROM image. It's based on ROM 53610010.

Note on "93 oct": Ralliarts run on 98RON fuel in Australia. Apparently, "93 octane" = 98RON.

Note on "StockPill": There is a small brass restrictor hidden away inside a boost hose near the turbocharger. Bryan gives us one tune for Ralliarts with the stock setup, and another tune for vehicles with a replacement boost pill.


That's basically the shopping/download/setup list. Next, I'll get to the actual "how-to" stuff.


But first, some bedtime reading references...

http://www.evoscan.com/technical-vehicle-manuals/16-understanding-vehicle-efi-systems
In particular, look for "Merlins EcuFlash EVO 7-8-9 TUNING GUIDE". This is actually a later version of the document I'd found earlier this month, so I learned something new just putting this posting together!



And here is the info regarding the standalone logging feature of the OP2.0 unit (which I'm happy to say is working beautifully on my Ralliart now )...

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-x-engine-management-tuning-forums/469325-logging-beta-standalone-tactrix-cable-logger-no-more-computer.html


To be continued...



Rich

richardjh

PART 2 - INSTALLATION, SETUP AND ECU CONNECTIVITY


At this point, I had the following ready...

- Laptop/Netbook (mine was Windows XP).
- Tactrix OP2.0 unit. Note: Don't plug it in to the laptop yet.
- MicroSD card. Note: Don't insert it into the OP2.0 yet.
- EcuFlash package downloaded and ready to install.
- Extra EcuFlash ROM definition file "53610010.xml", as per PART 1 above.
- A suitable GST Base Map exactly matching vehicle/ECU requirements.

I also had EvoScan - not absolutely essential, but was a very useful tool.


Installation and Setup

Installing everything on my netbook was reasonably straightforward. I can suggest doing things in the following order (simply because it worked for me):


Install the EcuFlash package

Simple enough. Restart Windows if it asks you to - I can't recall.

Don't actually start up EcuFlash yet.

Do go and check out whether EcuFlash has come with a ROM definition file for "53610010.xml". On my laptop, ROM definitions are stored in "Program Files\OpenECU\EcuFlash\rommetadata\mitsubishi\lanc er". If the ROM definition file isn't there, I suggest you create one, with the text posted up above in PART 1.

At some point, this step is likely to become redundant, ie. once EcuFlash installs out-of-the-box with the definition file already present.


Plug the Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 into the laptop via the USB cable

Windows should see it, and spring into typically incompetent action. If you need to, tell Windows, "yes, go and install the driver automatically" for each driver. Wait for all the driver installation steps to complete.

Note (again): Keep the microSD card out of the OP2.0 at this stage.


EcuFlash -> OP2.0 Firmware Update

This step is really only needed if you (a) downloaded a version of EcuFlash that carries the OP2.0 firmware version capable of standalone logging, and (b) if your OP2.0 is running an older version. When I did this, a beta EcuFlash was the only way to get this.

Run up EcuFlash. Select "Help -> Licensing". Not that you don't actually need to type anything in where it says "Add License"! This action is just a trigger for the firmware update. I expect later EcuFlash versions will have a proper way of triggering it.

You should now see some firmware update activity going on in the "Task Info" pane. Once it's done, you can close EcuFlash (for now).


Insert microSD Card

With the OP2.0 still connected to the laptop, insert the microSD card into the tiny slot of the OP2.0 card reader. You might need to use a tool like a very small screwdriver to push it in gently until it clicks. The socket is lightly spring-loaded.

My OP2.0 went a bit iffy at this point - it took a few insert/remove attempts... but eventually Windows "saw" it go in, and installed the relevant driver. Perhaps I removed the USB link to the laptop and re-inserted it again, or perhaps it was the black chicken I slaughtered at midnight. Whatever ritual I did, it worked eventually.

When the OP2.0 is plugged in via USB, the laptop should see the microSD card as a regular removable drive... although "Eject" command doesn't seem to be supported.


Format the SD card

Contrary to my expectations, I was never able to format the SD card using "Full" format - it hung every time. I gave up and just used "Quick" format FAT32, which appeared to work. I may suffer for this later, but it hasn't come back to haunt me yet.


Install EvoScan Package

...if you ended up getting it.


That's it. You now have a lean, mean, ECU-reflashin' machine.

Let's try it out.



ECU Connectivity

Take the laptop out to the car. Bring the power supply and extension cable - you definitely do not want to be running on battery while you do any of this!

Plug in the AC power supply. Switch to full-power mode in the Windows "Power Management" options (Control Panel, wherever). Disable any standby/hibernation timer, HDD park/standby timer, etc. Maybe switch off wireless network too.


Connecting via Tactrix OP2.0

Plug one end of the supplied USB cable into the Tactrix OP2.0 unit.

Make sure the car ignition is fully OFF, then plug the Tactrix OP2.0 unit into the OBDII port of the Ralliart. This is down in the driver-side footwell, above where your right shin would be when driving. Some funky coloured lights should start flashing on the OP2.0 once it's plugged in.

Plug the other end of the USB cable into the running laptop. Windows should see the Tactrix OP2.0, and may well pop up something related to the microSD card.

Put the laptop in a SAFE position where it won't get jolted. Its AC power should be on. All cables should be far from your hands and feet. Lock up the dog.


First EcuFlash Read

Run up EcuFlash. Note: I ignored a message in the "Task Info" pane saying, "error loading FTD2XX.dll". It doesn't seem to matter.

From the pull-down menu, Select "ECU" -> "Read from ECU".

Choose: Mitsubishi / ALL / CAN VEHICLES / 2006+

EcuFlash will tell you to turn on the vehicle ignition. Do so... 2 clicks only... don't actually start the car. Your stereo, fans and/or headlights may come on - switch them off.

Press OK on EcuFlash.

All sorts of exciting stuff will now happen in the car! Fans will run, pinging noises will go off, warning messages will appear on the multi-function display, air-raid sirens will sound, you name it.

Meanwhile, on the laptop, the "Task Info" pane will show the operation in progress.

Once it's done, it will tell you to switch off the ignition if you're finished - don't do this just yet, as we've got more to do.


Save Original ECU Image

EcuFlash should now have your vehicle's exact ROM... You should be able to see it in the "Open ROM Documents" pane.

Select "File" -> "Save ROM As..." and save the ROM image away to your laptop HDD. You'll want to choose a sensible folder for it - mine wanted to save it in the actual "Start Menu"!


EcuFlash - Compare to ECU

Now, select "ECU" -> "Compare to ECU". This will access the vehicle's ECU again, and double-check that the image you have matches the one in the car. It certainly should - we just read it through the exact same system. But it doesn't hurt to run such things, if only for our own confidence levels while learning. The double-check results should display in "Task Info" as a series of "YES" items (comparing memory areas).

Don't switch off the ignition yet - more to do!


EcuFlash - Exit Programming State

Edit: NOTE! In my version of EcuFlash, this option only appears if you have a ROM image file loaded. With no file loaded, this menu item is completely absent! You may need to load a "dummy" file if you just want to run this option, right after loading EcuFlash.

Now select "ECU" -> "Exit Programming State". Why? Because the how-to guide I followed (evoxforums) said to do it! Yes, this entire diatribe is simply a summary of information already available (ie. from smarter people, who know more than I do).

Once that's done, switch off the ignition.


EcuFlash - Clear DTCs

Edit: NOTE! In my version of EcuFlash, this option only appears if you have a ROM image file loaded. With no file loaded, this menu item is completely absent! You may need to load a "dummy" file if you just want to run this option, right after loading EcuFlash.

After any EcuFlash operations, the "Check Engine" light (CEL) seems to be lit on the vehicle dash. EcuFlash can easily clear it... just run the relevant procedure:

Select "ECU" -> "Clear DTCs". Turn the ignition back on... 2 clicks. Then press "OK" on EcuFlash. It should blast through a load of items in the "Task Info" pane, and say "task complete". Once it has finished, switch off the ignition for the last time.

Grab your laptop and OP2.0. You're done.


Your very next task is to back up your vehicle's original ROM! This is a very valuable file. Put copies in safe places. Email it to yourself at gmail (or something).


At this point, we've gone as far as verifying that we can access the Ralliart ECU from a laptop and some readily available tools. We have a copy of the stock ROM. The vehicle itself should be totally unchanged, as we haven't run anything that effects change. But now we know we can...

...which will be covered next!

Rich

richardjh

PART 3 - ROM EDITING AND STANDALONE OP2.0 LOGGING


So now you should have read your factory ROM image, and put a copy (or two) somewhere safe. It should now be possible to load it up in EcuFlash and probe its inner secrets. You can make ROM changes and rewrite it to the ECU, to enable "mode23" logging, change map data, etc. You can load up and write different ROM images too, such as a GST Base Map - and use logging mode to keep an eye on things like detonation, timing advance, etc. You can swap back to factory ROM prior to taking your car in for a dealer service, so it doesn't confuse or stress out the Mitsubishi people.

Pretty neat, really. I knew all those years messing around with PCs was leading up to something other than carpal tunnel syndrome!


Working With ROMs in EcuFlash

Reviewing the Factory ROM Image

In EcuFlash, load up the image you saved away in PART 2... "File" -> "Open ROM".

Tick any item in the "Current ROM Metadata" pane to take a look. A good start is "Misc/ECU ID"... this is your ECU's original identification number, eg. "53610010".

If EcuFlash doesn't allow you to do any of this, you might be missing the XML ROM Metadata definition file that matches your ECU ID.


Changing the Factory ROM Image

If you wish, you can modify a copy of your original ROM image, and reflash it back into the ECU. One reason to do this would be to enable "mode23" logging, so you can record exactly how the factory tuning manages your engine as you drive. To do this...

First, select "File" -> "Save ROM as..." and save away a new file. I'd suggest coming up with a file naming convention that works for you, eg. prefix "000_" for original factory ROM, then "001_..." for the first intended replacement ROM, "002_..." and so on.

Now you are free to make changes to the new file. For example...


Enabling ROM mode23

If you have the correct "53610010.xml" data, you should see the following three items in "Current ROM Metadata"...


Misc/IFMode 0x05 -> 0x23 #1
Misc/IFMode 0x05 -> 0x23 #2
Misc/DoMode 0x42 -> 0x52


Tick "IFMode 0x05 -> 0x23 #1" to bring up the value display/editor. Click on the "05" data in the window, and press '=' to enter a new value. Type in "0x23" then ENTER. Close the popup.

Tick "IFMode 0x05 -> 0x23 #2". Click on the "05". Press '='. Enter "0x23". Close the popup.

Tick "DoMode 0x42 -> 0x52". Click on the "42". Press '='. Enter "0x52". Close the popup.

Select "File" -> "Save ROM".

Congratulations... you've just enabled "mode23" in that ROM image. Once this is written to your ECU, all sorts of interesting engine management data will be available to you, through a variety of methods.

Reflashing it is covered a little lower down - see "Reflashing the ECU". If that's all you wish to do, skip directly to it.


GST Base Map ROM Image

If you want to replace your original factory ROM image with a GST Base Map ROM, you can load it into EcuFlash now.

Select "File" -> "Open ROM", and choose the appropriate GST Base Map for your vehicle.

First, it's a good idea to make sure the ROM in question is "mode23" enabled. At the time of writing, the GST Australian ROM images weren't "mode23", but Bryan was planning to rectify that.

Tick the following items in "Current ROM Metadata"...

IFMode 0x05 -> 0x23 #1
IFMode 0x05 -> 0x23 #2
DoMode 0x42 -> 0x52

The displayed values should be 23, 23 and 52 respectively (the field naming is a subtle hint!). If they differ, simply follow the "Enabling ROM mode23" section above.


Reflashing the ECU

In PART 2 above, I described the steps involved in reading an ECU image via EcuFlash. Thanks to the miracle of cut & paste, I'm going to regurgitate that whole text chunk here, with the "read" stuff changed to "write". It'll use up loads of space, but should make it a no-brainer to follow. And I do like no-brainers - suits me!

Here goes... this should all seem strangely familiar...


Take the laptop out to the car. Bring the power supply and extension cable - you definitely do not want to be running on battery while you do any of this!

Plug in the AC power supply. Switch to full-power mode in the Windows "Power Management" options (Control Panel, wherever). Disable any standby/hibernation timer, HDD park/standby timer, etc. Maybe switch off wireless network too.


Connecting via Tactrix OP2.0

Plug one end of the supplied USB cable into the Tactrix OP2.0 unit.

Make sure the car ignition is fully OFF, then plug the Tactrix OP2.0 unit into the OBDII port of the Ralliart. This is down in the driver-side footwell, above where your right shin would be when driving. Some funky coloured lights should start flashing on the OP2.0 once it's plugged in.

Plug the other end of the USB cable into the running laptop. Windows should see the Tactrix OP2.0, and may well pop up something related to the microSD card.

Put the laptop in a SAFE position where it won't get jolted. Its AC power should be on. All cables should be far from your hands and feet. Lock up the dog.


EcuFlash - Write to ECU

Run up EcuFlash. Note: I ignored a message in the "Task Info" pane saying, "error loading FTD2XX.dll". It doesn't seem to matter.


From the pull-down menu, select "Open ROM". Choose the ROM image you intend to write to your ECU.


From the pull-down menu, Select "ECU" -> "Write to ECU". Feel free to use "Test Write to ECU" first, as a trial run... all of the whirring and beeping without the actual writing!

If EcuFlash asks, choose: Mitsubishi / ALL / CAN VEHICLES / 2006+

EcuFlash will tell you to turn on the vehicle ignition. Do so... 2 clicks only... don't actually start the car. Your stereo, fans and/or headlights may come on - switch them off.

Press OK on EcuFlash.

All sorts of exciting stuff will now happen in the car! Fans will run, pinging noises will go off, warning messages will appear on the multi-function display, air-raid sirens will sound, you name it.

Meanwhile, on the laptop, the "Task Info" pane will show the operation in progress.

Once it's done, it will tell you to switch off the ignition if you're finished - don't do this just yet, as we've got more to do.


EcuFlash - Compare to ECU

Now, select "ECU" -> "Compare to ECU". This will access the vehicle's ECU again, and double-check that the selected image matches the one in the car. The double-check results should display in "Task Info" as a series of "YES" items (comparing memory areas).

Don't switch off the ignition yet - more to do!


EcuFlash - Exit Programming State

Now select "ECU" -> "Exit Programming State". Why? Because the how-to guide I followed (evoxforums) said to do it! Yes, this entire diatribe is simply a summary of information already available (ie. from smarter people, who know more than I do).

Once that's done, switch off the ignition.


EcuFlash - Clear DTCs

After any EcuFlash operations, the "Check Engine" light (CEL) seems to be lit on the vehicle dash. EcuFlash can easily clear it... just run the relevant procedure:

Select "ECU" -> "Clear DTCs". Turn the ignition back on... 2 clicks. Then press "OK" on EcuFlash. It should blast through a load of items in the "Task Info" pane, and say "task complete". Once it has finished, switch off the ignition for the last time.


If all has gone well, your 2009 Australian Ralliart Lancer just got a brain transplant. If the flashed ROM had "mode23" enabled, you can now use all sorts of logging tools to watch the engine management system do its thing.





Standalone Logging on Tactrix OP2.0

This is one great feature! And as long as your OP2.0 was initialised properly (see PART 1), it only takes one small file to enable...

Any time you plug your OP2.0 into your laptop via USB, you should be able to see its microSD card. To enable standalone logging, simply create a file named "logcfg.txt" on the card, containing something like:

You can probably find a more up-to-date version of that file under "OpenECU", or online somewhere. But the above data worked for me. Comment out any data you're not interested in seeing.

With this file in place, each time you start the vehicle, the OP2.0 will create logfiles containing data direct from the ECU... neatly formatted in .csv style. Load them straight into your spreadsheet of choice, review data, make charts, and so on.

A few side notes and observations...

- Logging won't happen if the OP2.0 is connected via USB to your laptop - it has to be standalone.

- If the pretty flashing LEDs are anything to go by, the OP2.0 is powered on 24/7. I don't know how much current the unit draws, but it may not be sensible to leave it plugged in for days/weeks when the car isn't being driven.

- If you ordered an OBDII extension lead, use it! The location of the OBDII port on the Ralliart was specifically designed by Mitsubishi engineers for maximum kickage.

- I wouldn't disconnect the unit while the car is running - not because I read anywhere that it's a Bad Idea... it's just not a polite thing to do to an interface!

- If you get fixed, dodgy-looking data (eg. knocksum = 35), you probably don't have mode23 enabled at the ECU.


EvoScan Logging via Tactrix OP2.0

If you installed EvoScan on your laptop, you can simply choose "Mode23 2009 JP/EU/AU EVOX" and it should display and log correctly (most fields, anyway!).

I have, however, seen some weird goings-on when logging in this mode. Sometimes EvoScan just displays a pile of old garbage - RPM values over 6000 at idle, etc. Perhaps it gets confused if you choose different logging modes... I don't know. Still, exiting EvoScan and restarting it usually resolves the problem, and it logs normally.

Again, if you get fixed, dodgy-looking data (eg. knocksum = 35), you probably don't have mode23 enabled at the ECU.


Wrapping Up

That's about all I should include here. If I start blabbing about how to interpret logged data (eg. knocksum) and modify tuning (eg. AFR, Timing Advance), I would be straying from the intended topic. More to the point, I'm not qualified to tell anybody how to tune anything!

I hope this information gives you Aussie Ralliart owners a good starting point.

Have fun!


Rich

Griffin5

Rich, you're a champ putting this together. I've got a 2009 AUS RA so I'll be watching this thread regularly. Thanks for the resources. I'll get to reading them.
Been running the GST v1 stock pill map for almost a year and love it.

cheers,
Matt.

bobcrusader

Rich - I wanna have your babies.

Hecky

iTrader: (1)

Damn, impressive...Rich I owe you a beer, or two, or three....

RADriver

Nice, all the smack down , from down under.

Good Job!

richardjh

Right, the big brain dump is complete!

I don't plan on keeping this lot perpetually up-to-date with all the latest EcuFlash/OP2.0/EvoScan versions ad infinitum, but I will correct any inaccuracies as soon as they come to my attention.

Cheers,


Rich

jimbo4510

this is awsome most of i already know just need the cable and im done its about time australia gets into tuning like the amercians do

bobcrusader

Nice work, Rich - worked for me.

Have you found a way to replay a standalone log with evoscan? The data in CSV format is useful, but seeing a replay with gauges would be cool.

richardjh

Great stuff! Glad it's useful...

Regarding EvoScan: I guess you could try reformatting the standalone .csv log data into whatever format EvoScan understands...

Rich

asc11

This may be a silly question but if I flash my ECU to use the GST basemaps and then flash it back to stock if I take it to the dealer for any warranty work will they be able to tell that the ECU has been modified? I.e. will this void the warranty?

richardjh

The only reasonable answer is, "possibly".

They probably won't look. If they do look, they will probably just check the ECU ID and maybe some checksum to ensure it's as expected.

If they dig very deep, they could probably find some marker that would act like a footprint... "someone woz 'ere".

Ultimately, if you flash a different tune on your ROM, you need to take responsibility for having done so... and wear any consequences following on.


I do know that in Australia it's not feasible for a vehicle warranty to just "be void". It has to be shown that the modification was implicated in the subsequent failure.

So if you change something related to engine intercooling, the company can't refuse to accept and perform valid warranty service on, say, brakes. If they do, you escalate the issue and trust fairness and common sense to prevail. Eventually... with a lot of kicking and screaming...

Rich

yby

Awesome stuff mate!

@asc11 - Your flash count will be different so yes if they really look they will know the ECU has been played with.

toredefine

iTrader: (6)

This is an awesome thread. VOTE TO STICKY!