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Old Oct 14, 2009, 03:26 PM   #1
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How to save over $350!!!

Real simple, if you screw up the threads on your Rear O2 sensor while taking it off to put on a high flow cat.... put that Mother F'er back in with JB weld! A new rear O2 sensor is close to $400 bucks!

This is a part that cost Mitsu around $50 to produce, and they charge that much! Same exact part on the EVO (different part number, but you know it is the same sensor) is around $500!!!

Rape is the mitsubishi way of getting to know the customers

Keith
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2010 Lancer Ralliart Sportback... From stock to modified as follows in less than a week!
Buschur Racing FMIC, upper IC pipe, and lower IC pipe with EVO X BOV. AMS cat back exhaust, mini battery kit, and MAF housing from EVO X,Buschur Air filter mounted to EVO X MAF housing. Forge WG actuator, Ultimate Racing high flow cat.
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Old Oct 14, 2009, 04:03 PM   #2
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or just heat up the cat nice and hot... and spray some wd-40 or any type of rusty bolt remover spray while is still hot and soak the O2 threads and use the correct socket... once the O2 is warm to touch give it a few more sprays and use one swift motion to loosen the O2 sensor.....

most people strip the threads is because the forces the O2 to loosen or its still hot!!!

metal threads expands when its hot.... and seizes when it is cold..... thats why you spray it when is hot soo you can soak in to the threads and take it off when is warm to touch.... so the threads dont seizes up...


when thats the trick i learn over the years of strip O2s

lol

Last edited by evil03; Oct 14, 2009 at 05:29 PM. Reason: typos lol
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Old Oct 14, 2009, 04:45 PM   #3
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^You sir, are full of win-knowledge.

I'll keep that in mind for when I'm doing such a task!
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Old Oct 14, 2009, 05:25 PM   #4
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anti-seize ftw!
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Old Oct 14, 2009, 06:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evil03 View Post
or just heat up the cat nice and hot... and spray some wd-40 or any type of rusty bolt remover spray while is still hot and soak the O2 threads and use the correct socket... once the O2 is warm to touch give it a few more sprays and use one swift motion to loosen the O2 sensor.....

most people strip the threads is because the forces the O2 to loosen or its still hot!!!

metal threads expands when its hot.... and seizes when it is cold..... thats why you spray it when is hot soo you can soak in to the threads and take it off when is warm to touch.... so the threads dont seizes up...


when thats the trick i learn over the years of strip O2s

lol
Wow man, thanks for the heads up!
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Old Oct 14, 2009, 07:17 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by evil03 View Post
or just heat up the cat nice and hot... and spray some wd-40 or any type of rusty bolt remover spray while is still hot and soak the O2 threads and use the correct socket... once the O2 is warm to touch give it a few more sprays and use one swift motion to loosen the O2 sensor.....

most people strip the threads is because the forces the O2 to loosen or its still hot!!!

metal threads expands when its hot.... and seizes when it is cold..... thats why you spray it when is hot soo you can soak in to the threads and take it off when is warm to touch.... so the threads dont seizes up...


when thats the trick i learn over the years of strip O2s

lol
I figured with only 1000 miles on the car it wouldn't be seized up yet.... I was wrong!

The factory don't use anti-seize... bastards. If mine still had threads I would have used high temp anti-seize when I installed it on the high flow cat. Actually at the moment I have the test pipe on the car because I will be getting the bung for my wide band welded into the front of the high flow cat when I get the gauge in the mail later this week.

Keith
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2010 Lancer Ralliart Sportback... From stock to modified as follows in less than a week!
Buschur Racing FMIC, upper IC pipe, and lower IC pipe with EVO X BOV. AMS cat back exhaust, mini battery kit, and MAF housing from EVO X,Buschur Air filter mounted to EVO X MAF housing. Forge WG actuator, Ultimate Racing high flow cat.
Triple gauge pod with Wide band A/F ratio and boost.
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Old Oct 15, 2009, 08:48 PM   #7
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I use the 22mm wrench thats 1 ft long for leverage. Never had a problem. Even without any lube...lol.
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Old Oct 15, 2009, 08:58 PM   #8
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I use the 22mm wrench thats 1 ft long for leverage. Never had a problem. Even without any lube...lol.
I used the O2 sensor socket I have in my garage... I never had a problem... until this time! My point was that anything can be fixed with JB weld.... or if you are a mythbusters fan I probably could have fixed it with duct tape!

Keith
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2010 Lancer Ralliart Sportback... From stock to modified as follows in less than a week!
Buschur Racing FMIC, upper IC pipe, and lower IC pipe with EVO X BOV. AMS cat back exhaust, mini battery kit, and MAF housing from EVO X,Buschur Air filter mounted to EVO X MAF housing. Forge WG actuator, Ultimate Racing high flow cat.
Triple gauge pod with Wide band A/F ratio and boost.
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Old Oct 15, 2009, 09:22 PM   #9
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I ALWAYS heat the O2 sensor in the cat up with a torch before removing it. It will strip out every single time if you don't. Trust me, I play a professional on TV!
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Old Oct 15, 2009, 09:38 PM   #10
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thanks for the good advice
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Old Oct 17, 2009, 01:38 PM   #11
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jb weld is the best
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