2009 Ralliart Injen Cold Air Intake Tuned by RRE

[bmanuhutu]

Heres pictures from the day, sorry the quality sucks cause I took it from my phone and the blurriness was from all the excitement anyways, mike has better pictures cause he used a real camera, but you get the point.

The car just loaded on the dynapack dyno



The stock airbox with the scoop


And here's the injen CAI in the box.....*shiny*


Mike doing his dirty deed


Stock run on stock everything, i dont know if you can read 229/237 :P, I guess mine made some power already stock


Here the bumper needed to be removed for the install, it was pretty easy.



Mini fuse box relocated, the brackets come in the box, all parts are included


Tranny cooler was moved about 1.5 inches forward, again brackets were included in the box


Finish installing the CAI, its DYNO TIME


Dyno'd again


As mike stated by just putting on the Intake, without a tune, increased the HP by 12 and Torque by 9


Mike does a great job at extracting all the power available, this was the highest numbers we saw that night
264HP 284 TQ!!!!!!!!!!

Here is the boost graph, peaked at 21-22 psi and tapering to 15-16 pounds at redline


The only problem was the tranny started to get warm and gave out at times, giving us a bad dyno run. Just let that guy cool down and mike did a couple of more pulls and we were good to go.

With this turbo Mike recommended that a downpipe is not necessary, maybe a testpipe or a high flow cat/rally cat. Here is a picture of the rally cat at the shop :P


The power potential with this CAI is pretty nice, Mike was really nice and even accommodated me for saturday even though the shop doesnt open on saturday. I would recommend this intake and recommend RRE to any skeptics out there. The car pulls and pulls and pulls like an out of control chariot :> , if only the brakes were a little better, I can say that this car feels almost as fast as my EVO 8. THUMBS UP TO MIKE and RRE!
http://www.roadraceengineering.com

[velocityhead]

Thanks for this! It's good to know how much this intake is worth with and without a tune.

[secondchace]

226 is way to high to use as legitimate base numbers... but this dyno graph does show that you gained decently from the intake and tune, and those are then numbers to concentrate on.

looks like 38 whp gain, that would put you right in the 230 whp range realistically


gj

[bmanuhutu]

i just pulled this from my post on clubralliart, so you dont see RRE's post, but mike the owner of the shop and the guy who tuned my car, said my car was the highest RA ever tuned, all the other RA's baseline'd in the 211-215 range, so yes 226 is a legitimate number.

This is an example of a bone stock out of the trailer RA he tuned
http://www.clubralliart.com/showthread.php?t=193
so yea, mine was broken in with 3000 miles and just did fresh fluid change, so maybe that's why i got those numbers. and whp is nothing without torque :P

[Ladogaboy]

RRE has been working with Mitsus since the DSM days, so I trust their judgment completely. If anything, from the dyno sheets that I have seen come out of RRE, their dyno is middle of the pack. Not too stingy, but not too generous either.

[secondchace]

Originally Posted by bmanuhutu

i just pulled this from my post on clubralliart, so you dont see RRE's post, but mike the owner of the shop and the guy who tuned my car, said my car was the highest RA ever tuned, all the other RA's baseline'd in the 211-215 range, so yes 226 is a legitimate number.

This is an example of a bone stock out of the trailer RA he tuned
http://www.clubralliart.com/showthread.php?t=193
so yea, mine was broken in with 3000 miles and just did fresh fluid change, so maybe that's why i got those numbers. and whp is nothing without torque :P

226 is NOT a realistic number for one main fact.

The cars TRUE stock dyno is in the 190 whp range. If you are slightly higher, great, then your in the 195-200 range stock. That still buffers you into a 230-235 whp range with the tune and stuff added, which is very respectable.

The fact that normal ralliarts (not your factory beast) dyno 215 on his dyno, furthers my point, as those numbers are about 25 higher then the true power the car puts out stock.

but like i said the true #'s to care about are the gains... not the inflated end result. Also, you mentioned torque, and your right, the torque # is too high base as well.. needs to be 220-225. Which would bring you into the 260 ft pounds realistically, which is great.

Think of it this way. On that dyno given the stock numbers i would dyno 275 whp and 290 ft lb torque. Which is not possible on this car, even with every bolt on and the bestest tune ever! Reason being, the turbo would emplode before you got there. it cant make that power.

I understand the excitement that these numbers bring you, but doing your homework and being fully aware on what you really have, will make you a better tuner in the long run.

[Ladogaboy]

Originally Posted by secondchace

226 is NOT a realistic number for one main fact.
***

The thing to remember about dyno numbers is that they are all relative. There is no reason at all to attempt to "legitimize" dyno numbers. Use the history of stock pulls on the dyno to see how a car measures up to other cars relatively speaking.

The numbers that you are throwing out are assuming a 20% drivetrain loss for power, which is about what should be expected. That is why stock pulls between 190-200 whp are probably pretty accurate on an absolute scale, while dyno pulls under 190 and over 200 are probably a bit stingy or generous, respectively.

My point in all of this is that you obviously have concerns that people are trying to use generous dynos in order to see who can pee higher on the wall. I just want to assure you that this is not a pissing contest, RRE is not trying to sell a part, and that these gains are legitimate relative to the dyno used. A 15% gain is a 15% gain no matter what dyno you are on.

On an aside, Mike, do you have any dyno numbers for pulls from stock EVO Xs? It might give us something else to measure by.

[secondchace]

im pretty sure i said that the gains were the numbers to be toting. I believe 100% it gained as shown, perhaps you shouldnt skim what i write, and take it all in next time.

My simple, main, and only point is the FACT (and no, its not due to 20%) it due to what all the legitimate people agree upon + irrefutable evidence of such that this cars stock power is between 185 and 195 whp o99% of the time. Generosity from the factory what we call "Beasts" 1% of the time could garner another 4-6 whp.. still WELL below any number he posted.

[Ladogaboy]

Originally Posted by secondchace

im pretty sure i said that the gains were the numbers to be toting. I believe 100% it gained as shown, perhaps you shouldnt skim what i write, and take it all in next time.

My simple, main, and only point is the FACT (and no, its not due to 20%) it due to what all the legitimate people agree upon + irrefutable evidence of such that this cars stock power is between 185 and 195 whp o99% of the time. Generosity from the factory what we call "Beasts" 1% of the time could garner another 4-6 whp.. still WELL below any number he posted.

I did read what you said, and my point was that (judging by your sig) you seem to be out to "illigitimize" dynos that don't read exactly what you want them to. RRE gave you all the information you need: 1) what stock RAs normally dyno out to on their dyno; 2) what this RA dynoed out to stock; 3) what this RA dynoed out to after mod and tune. At that point, you can say to yourself, "Ah, a generous dyno. It is probably the equivalent of XXX whp once adjusted." No need to crap.

And the reason it is a "FACT" is because most "legitimate people" estimate about a 20% power loss between crank and wheel on AWD cars. That is why DSport added 20% to their test cars' dyno pulls in order to estimate crank hp.

Now let's all have a and thank RRE for their hard work on this.

[secondchace]

Originally Posted by Ladogaboy

I did read what you said, and my point was that (judging by your sig) you seem to be out to "illigitimize" dynos that don't read exactly what you want them to. RRE gave you all the information you need: 1) what stock RAs normally dyno out to on their dyno; 2) what this RA dynoed out to stock; 3) what this RA dynoed out to after mod and tune. At that point, you can say to yourself, "Ah, a generous dyno. It is probably the equivalent of XXX whp once adjusted." No need to crap.

And the reason it is a "FACT" is because most "legitimate people" estimate about a 20% power loss between crank and wheel on AWD cars. That is why DSport added 20% to their test cars' dyno pulls in order to estimate crank hp.

Now let's all have a and thank RRE for their hard work on this.

Im well aware what the loss of power from crank to wheel is on an all wheel drive car. Thats not the matter, nor really are the numbers. My issue are the people who post that they are 264 whp with an intake and tune and REALLY BELIEVE IT.

its just silly how uneducated people are.

And my sig is fact as well, but the ttp issue runs alot deeper.

[brads09lancerGT]

Congrats OP. Hope u can feel quite a difference in the way your car pulls now Great job RRE

Originally Posted by Ladogaboy

Now let's all have a and thank RRE for their hard work on this.

Amen brother! No need to argue over what the OP's car was dyno'd at. All that matters is that we can see what #'s to expect with the Injen intake with and without a tune.

[jRox]

Great work and nice gains with the intake and tune. Was RRE able to determine if the Injen CAI can be safely run without a tune?

[Mike W]

On our dyno a few EVO Xs dyno in the high 240s with most in the mid 250s and a few high 250s. Untuned with an intake and exhaust they run in the 290s to low teens depending on what cat/no cat. Stock tuned Xs run 300-310 hp. Tuned with mods from 320s up to 340s with no cams. Tuned with cams on 91 octane 350-360hp. I think this is in line with other dynos.

I would suggest a tune with this intake. Out of 5 pulls with the intake and stock tune, I had 2 clean pulls with no timing retard from knock. one had a brief 1 degree timing pull, and two pulls had 3 degrees pulled for a little spike. No sustained timing pull, both events were less than a 1/4 second of a 12 second run. On average the AFR was .5 leaner with the intake.

Testing a cold air intake on the dyno does not fully show what it can do for you driving down the road. The stock intake has a pretty good cold air scoop. But if you go to an open filter back behind the battery you are sucking in mad hot air at speed. With the Injen installed, on a long pull on the street the intake temps measured in the MAF housing were about 10 degrees higher than ambient temperature as measured by the factory sensor out on the bumper. In the end, a good intercooler can bring it all back down too.

Mike W

[boondoc]

Nice post and congrats.

[gaspipedreamer]

sooo how much did everything cost you? tune install and everything btw great post