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Mar 6, 2009, 10:04 AM
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#1
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Newbie
Personal Sales Rating: ( 0)
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 8
Drives: 2004 Ralliart
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All around performance rotors and pads
I need some advice on rotors and pads to use on my 04 ralli i dont have any big mods but i do race a bit in the summer, drag and course. any info would be helpful thx
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Mar 6, 2009, 10:10 AM
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#2
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Personal Sales Rating: ( 10)
2009 Toyota Tacoma My Garage
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Ypsilanti, MI
Posts: 7,713
Drives: 09 Not An Evo; 04 Not An Evo; 96 Not An Evo (destroyed)
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Just stick with stock rotors unless you actually need new ones. I got nearly 100k miles out of the OEM rotors.
As for pads, I run axxis ultimates in the front and EBC redstuff in the rear. Setup holds up just fine for me on road courses. I had EBC yellowstuff on the rear at one point, but they were eating the rotors (but they had great grabbing power)
Also, read this - http://forums.evolutionm.net/lancer-...ead-first.html
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Mar 6, 2009, 10:25 AM
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#3
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Newbie
Personal Sales Rating: ( 0)
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 8
Drives: 2004 Ralliart
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well a friend of mine said that the reason why my wheel shakes when im braking is because the rotors are going bad, where can i find those parts online?
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Mar 6, 2009, 01:28 PM
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#4
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Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: ( 5)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 671
Drives: 05 Pearl White Ralliart AT
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Well if your stock rotors are about to bite the dust you can get new stock ones at mitsubishiparts.net but if you want to upgrade slightly you can either get the ones offered by RRM or you can also order some r1concept rotors
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Apr 27, 2009, 02:28 PM
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#5
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Newbie
Personal Sales Rating: ( 2)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: St Louis
Posts: 53
Drives: 2005 Evo MR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmhinderer
well a friend of mine said that the reason why my wheel shakes when im braking is because the rotors are going bad, where can i find those parts online?
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They could be warped. You can try to get them turned, but most likely if warped your going to have to spring for a fresh set.
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Apr 28, 2009, 07:33 PM
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#6
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Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: ( 1)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Granby
Posts: 379
Drives: 2006 Lancer RA
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Gransport GS3 front brake pads, stock ventilated plain disc and Motul RBF 600 + Hawk HP+ rear brake pads.
Perfect setup for track days, little bit noisy but hey, they're race pads !
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Apr 30, 2009, 09:39 AM
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#7
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Newbie
Personal Sales Rating: ( 0)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Calgary
Posts: 49
Drives: 2005 Lancer OZ Rally
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I just installed Brembo vented/slotted rotors with Hawk HPS pads, and they work great. They feel like the OEM brakes under normal conditions, but when I squeeze the brakes just a little bit harder, they grab really well.
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Apr 30, 2009, 09:43 AM
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#8
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Personal Sales Rating: ( 40)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: La Center, WA
Posts: 2,109
Drives: Operation Damaged Goods - 03 Yellow Evo
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A good set of pads makes all the difference, the Hawk pads are great pads. Just make sure you stay away from the eBay rotors =)
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May 4, 2009, 08:28 PM
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#9
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Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: ( 0)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
Posts: 480
Drives: 2004 Black Ralliart MT
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I would check to see how much life your stock rotors have left. If they don't have enough left to turn them and smooth 'em out, or money isn't a big deal to you, go for new rotors. I would recommend R1 concepts premium series (avoid the e-bay line, made in China vs. Canada plus materials are cheaper) or RRM. I dunno about Brembo but I imagine a company with a reputation like them puts out a good product.
I got R1 premium rotors dimpled and slotted and they bite real hard and just will not fade no matter how much I beat on them for long periods of time. Well I haven't put them to the full test yet, next weekend at the track shall tell the full story.
If you'll be doing some HPDE's or auto-x or hard driving of some sort, go for a kind of middle of the road pad (not OEM replacement, not track, somewhere inbetween). Good example is EBC redstuff or Hawk HPS. I recommend both.
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"For I am not ashamed of the gospel of Christ, for it is the power of God to salvation for everyone who believes, for the Jew first and also for the Greek. For in it the righteousness of God is revealed from faith to faith; as it is written, 'The just shall live by faith.'"
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May 5, 2009, 11:36 AM
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#10
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Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: ( 3)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 205
Drives: dodging potholes at an area near you
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawkRA
I got R1 premium rotors dimpled and slotted and they bite real hard and just will not fade no matter how much I beat on them for long periods of time. Well I haven't put them to the full test yet, next weekend at the track shall tell the full story.
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Lets not confuse the OP. Just for the record:
-Initial bite or any bite for the matter is caused by the pad material and not by the rotor. The higher the Coeff. of friction of the pad, the better the bite will be, although with trade offs like wear and noise.
-Fade is caused by overheating the brake fluid. Especially if there is some moisture within the fluid, it will boil, turning into gas which is compressible unlike liquid.
-The only thing that can happen to the disc if driven very hard is warping and/or cracking due to extreme heating cycles. That's why most front discs already come ventilated the factory..
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Originally Posted by BLKRalliArt04
Man, my gf said she wasnt gonna get me anything for my car, says buying stuff for cars is stupid.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Myszkewicz
I got myself the RRM Piggyback for Xmas. Buying stuff for girlfriends is stupid. :lol:
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04 R/A
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May 6, 2009, 02:23 AM
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#11
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Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: ( 0)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
Posts: 480
Drives: 2004 Black Ralliart MT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdc
Lets not confuse the OP. Just for the record:
-Initial bite or any bite for the matter is caused by the pad material and not by the rotor. The higher the Coeff. of friction of the pad, the better the bite will be, although with trade offs like wear and noise.
-Fade is caused by overheating the brake fluid. Especially if there is some moisture within the fluid, it will boil, turning into gas which is compressible unlike liquid.
-The only thing that can happen to the disc if driven very hard is warping and/or cracking due to extreme heating cycles. That's why most front discs already come ventilated the factory..
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He's totally right. I re-did my calipers, got new rotors, new brakelines, new pads, and better fluid all at once, so I didn't think about which parts affected the brakes in what way. Pads are probably the most important part for you, and better and new fluid will help if you're experiencing fade.
__________________
Romans 1:16-17:
"For I am not ashamed of the gospel of Christ, for it is the power of God to salvation for everyone who believes, for the Jew first and also for the Greek. For in it the righteousness of God is revealed from faith to faith; as it is written, 'The just shall live by faith.'"
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May 6, 2009, 12:11 PM
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#12
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Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: ( 5)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 715
Drives: 40+ MPG Lancer!
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I placed an order with importrp.com and it went very smoothly. They actually answer the phone too. Here are some links for stuff I would recommend (from anywhere, not just these guys):
Brembo oem rotors:
http://www.importrp.com/product.php?...&cat=38&page=1
Nice cheap PBR/Axxis Pads (same as regular axxis pads just different box):
http://www.importrp.com/product.php?...&cat=37&page=1
If you DIY, thats a pretty cheap brake job. I just did mine this weekend. This combo offers some great grip and should provide plenty of power for auto-x. Don't worry about dropping lots of cash on drilled/slotted unless you track for long durations or very frequently.
BTW I'm totally not a spokesman for them, just impressed by them when i ordered two weeks ago
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May 18, 2009, 07:28 PM
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#13
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Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: ( 0)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Akron OH.
Posts: 112
Drives: 2004 Lancer Ralliart
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I just had to replace my stock rotors. I got some EBC USR's from Summit Racing pretty cheap, I also threw on some green stuff pads because why replace the rotors and use old crap pads. With tax I paid 454.55, and no shipping because the store is 15 mins from my house.
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May 18, 2009, 07:47 PM
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#14
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Personal Sales Rating: ( 10)
2009 Toyota Tacoma My Garage
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Ypsilanti, MI
Posts: 7,713
Drives: 09 Not An Evo; 04 Not An Evo; 96 Not An Evo (destroyed)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sicnevol
I just had to replace my stock rotors. I got some EBC USR's from Summit Racing pretty cheap, I also threw on some green stuff pads because why replace the rotors and use old crap pads. With tax I paid 454.55, and no shipping because the store is 15 mins from my house.
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Wow, that's quite a lot of money for just pads and rotors. Front pads (axxis ultimates) and blank front rotors usually cost me about $130 total.
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May 19, 2009, 09:39 PM
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#15
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Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: ( 0)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 250
Drives: 05 RA
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where did you order your rotor blanks from?
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