RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

Please go to this site to see what a crank scraper is: http://www.crank-scrapers.com/

Some months ago I contacted Ishihara-Johnson crank scrapers to ask if there was a Mitsubishi 4g69 scraper. There was not. Kevin Johnson and I made an arrangement to develop one. It was finished and installed today in my RA. This report is not about the steps that went into the R&D, but shows you how to install the finished scrapers in the 4g69 engine.

Tools and Supplies
A basic socket set and basic tools everyone should have will suffice.
A file.
3/8" and 1/2" drive torque wrenches to tighten fasteners correctly.
Permatex Ultra Gray RTV. The item # is actually called up in the Mitsu manual. This amount will do 3 pans no problem.


X-tra large puppy training pads to put under the oil pan (get these! Absorbs lots of liquid and has a waterproof bottom so no soppy leaks).

FYI, here is the preliminary set I got. It consists of two scrapers. Don't mind the bag of bolts.


Final configuration for 4g69:



Get to here:


Drain engine oil, torque drain screw back in when done.

Remove spark plugs to make it easy to turn engine over.

Remove the passenger side plastic undertray. Remove 3 nuts and a bolt to disconnect the header where it meets the downpipe.


Take the oxygen sensor wires out of their bent-wire holders to make some slack in the wires. (one sensor on each side of the cat con). Pull the exhaust pipe midsection hangar out of the rubber supports (smear grease on to help), and hold up the pipe so it doesn't hang down and strain those sensor wires. Move the whole thing towards passenger side and secure with string.


Remove the bell housing flywheel cover.


Unscrew all oil pan bolts. Carefully wedge a thin paint scraper between the pan flange and the engine block, hammer it gently along to loosen at least one side. Pull down on that side and the pan should begin to separate.

Now look up at the crank. Remove the 5 bearing cap bolts on the side towards the front of the car.


Measure each bolt. Maximum allowable length is 2.790 inches. If any bolt exceeds this, replace it with a new one. btw, all mine were still near "new" length at 2.765 inches.



Now bolt in the main scraper like so. Tighten bolts finger tight.


Insert a 1/2" drive ratchet with 6" extension into the crank nose. These scrapers are downstroke scrapers. Drive the ratchet CAREFULLY and SLOWLY to begin to turn the crank CLOCKWISE (looking at front of the engine make it turn clockwise). At the same time you do this, observe the edges of the crank weights, the edges and bottom of the con rod, and the con rod bolt as they approach the scraper. If any interference with the scraper looks imminent, mark that location on the scraper with a permanent marker. Remove the scraper right away and file off some material, enough to leave 40 to 60 thousandth of an inch (about 1 mm). Reinstall and rotate the crank. Repeat until you are sure there is about 1 mm gap everywhere. *This is normal to have to do a bit of fitting.* It is easy and quick to do with just a file. Wash the part every time before you install it.



The crank weights are not nice and flat, so watch for the thick side coming around when you turn the engine.





When done, torque the bolts, following this procedure:
1. Starting with the middle bolt, then the ones on each side of it, then the end ones, torque to 18 plus/minus 1 ft-lb.
2. Make a mark on each bolt head (I used white-out for paper), then make a corresponding mark on the bearing cap at 90 degrees from the one on the bolt head.
3. In the same sequence as before, torque each bolt until the two marks line up, as per the pic. Go exactly 90 degrees. Done.



Now install the second scraper. Position as so. Hold with oil pan screws. Rotate crank to check for clearances, and as before, file if required.



Thoroughly clean and degrease the oil pan flange and the mating surface of the engine block.

For final second scraper installation, remove the second scraper, then smear Ultra Gray on it where it goes against the engine block. Attach it in place onto the block with oil pan screws, hand tight. Leave that way for 1/2 hour. (You can see this in the above pic)

When the 1/2 hour is up, remove the pan screws from the scraper. It will stay stuck to the block. Apply Ultra Gray to the oil pan flange. Position onto the engine block and tighten all screws slightly more than hand tight. Leave that way for 1 hour. Note there are 2 shorter screws and where they go.





After 1 hour is up, do a final torque of the oil pan screws to 7 ft-lbs (not much!)

Button up the exhaust, re-clamp the oxygen sensor wires, put spark plugs back in. Let rtv cure for at least 12 hours, then fill with engine oil.

I just installed this, will report back after I street drive awhile and get to the track.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

What exactly IS a crank scraper?

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

...**** off...

mikemike396

iTrader: (3)

How much of a power increase would you think this gives? Doesn't seem like much.

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

I won't be doing a before/after dyno run. A rule of thumb is 2%-3% gain, which for an N/A Ralliart is about 4 horsepower. I will monitor the oil temperature at the track, since reduced temperature means less friction means more power to the wheels. Also I'll try to describe what it feels like, seat-of-the-pants type of thing. Another benefit is better bottom end bearing lubrication but I haven't heard of that being a problem with the stock 4g69.

With a car like ours, lots of effective smaller mods add up to make a noticable difference, and the crank scraper is one of them.

Anyway, going for a full track day in another week and i'll post after that.

From Ishihara-Johnson http://www.crank-scrapers.com/What%2...k-scraper.html

• Less rotating mass for the engine to accelerate because of the removed oil
• Less loss of power because of excessive drag caused by oil droplets in the windage cloud
• Helps reduce engine damaging oil-foaming both on the surface and bubbles deeper within the oil
• Helps to cool critical engine parts by quickly returning heated oil to the sump
• Helps to prevent the cylinder walls from being overloaded with oil
• Can help with fuel efficiency

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

cranswick likes this

rongdoer

iTrader: (1)

I'm definitely going to put one of these in, right before the roll cage, parachute, and fire proof suit are purchased.

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

Step away, and don't hurt yourself tripping on the curb.

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

Crans, get it and we can use the pit:

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

check your visitor messages, lol

what a turd

I remember when i was a kid, my step dad's friend had a pit, and i learned a lot of things down there.

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

If I bolt a permanent ladder to the pit wall, will you come over then?

2006_RA

iTrader: (1)

RalliartN,

did you recently add this pit to your garage ?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

what pit? I don't know what you're talking about

bakuro117

iTrader: (5)

This is awesome. IDK how I missed this back when you posted it. Have any thoughts on it as of yet?

I need one of those pits too... lol

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

ssshhhhhh.... it was done when the house was built.

It is normally covered by 2x8 planks that go across and are painted the same colour as the rest of the concrete floor. Just pull'em off.

Pit fits the lancer perfectly. If you want exact dimensions, including footing size, let me know. To make one, excavate a hole, pour a footing, lay block, backfill. Actually, the thing is amazingly handy.

Bakuro, I am doing a full track day on Monday, so I will report after that. I've daily driven for awhile and checked the oil pan yesterday: zero leaks or weepage, dry as a bone.